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Old 11-11-2017, 09:17 PM   #29
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Look at the long term fuel trims especially at low rpm if ltft is high like over 10% you generally have a problem, also look at afr and commanded afr they should be close


Are you eunning aftermarket intake and if so what type
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Old 11-12-2017, 09:58 AM   #30
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What motor oil are you using? Using other than the specified 0w 20 can cause issues with the AVCS system.
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Old 11-16-2017, 05:40 PM   #31
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I am running a greddy turbo kit with a Openflash E-Tune. I have had this issue before I went turbo so it is not the kit. The only things that I have from before that is still on the car is the Tomei OP,FP, and Catback. I starting to wonder is it possible to throw these codes do to a exhaust leak in the catback, port injector issue. Gas mileage has also declined and can smell gas. I will post a log of what my vehicle is doing at idle. I pretty much get a new combinations of codes every single time I start my car and let it idle for a bit. I am running Motul 300v 5w40 but I had 0w20 before and still doing same thing.


Thanks for your guys inputs also

Last edited by PRBLM; 11-16-2017 at 05:52 PM.
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Old 11-16-2017, 07:38 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PRBLM View Post
I am running a greddy turbo kit with a Openflash E-Tune. I have had this issue before I went turbo so it is not the kit. The only things that I have from before that is still on the car is the Tomei OP,FP, and Catback. I starting to wonder is it possible to throw these codes do to a exhaust leak in the catback, port injector issue. Gas mileage has also declined and can smell gas. I will post a log of what my vehicle is doing at idle. I pretty much get a new combinations of codes every single time I start my car and let it idle for a bit. I am running Motul 300v 5w40 but I had 0w20 before and still doing same thing.


Thanks for your guys inputs also


Is your manifold coated or wrapped? I’m leaning towards my problem being heat related. I tend to get a lot of misfires on cylinder 1 and 4 which is right above the header. 2 and 3 not nearly as many. I also set my fans to run all the time when the motor is at operating temp and I think that helped a little bit.

I am getting ready to install a turbo kit but this has me a little nervous.


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Old 11-17-2017, 02:17 AM   #33
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My manifold is wrapped. But I only get misfire in cylinder 2. The only reason why I don’t think it’s heat related is because I will start my car on a cold morning and couple mins later, check engine light is on for any of 219A and 119f or 119e. Sometimes 0300 and 0302 thrown in the mix. I recorded the check engine light before and after it came on (I knew it was coming) on my OFT. I need to post it up. I’ve switched out spark plugs too. I almost just want to swap injectors cause I always smell gas. I just don’t know if it’s because my car is trying to correct for a lean condition. The whole thing blows my mind. Car drives absolutely fine. Just at idle with it in gear, it throws a tantrum. In neutral, absolutely fine. Before turbo was installed, it actually use to die when coming to a stop if I stopped in a gear with clutch in. So I’d throw it in neutral before stopping.
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Old 11-17-2017, 06:22 AM   #34
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That's not heat. When you first start up the car is in open loop mode. The car is running on the base maps and not using the sensors to adjust the fuel trims. Once the car warms up and goes into closed loop- that sounds like the time when your car is running into problems.

I don't know if you have a small vacuum leak, but lots of times a vacuum leak will idle real bad then run fine. That's because the small leak is relatively bigger to the engine with little air flow (idling) and once the air really starts flowing (driving) that same air leak is relatively smaller.

IMHO throwing parts at a problem like this is 1) expensive and 2) pointless. You don't know what the issue is and you've replaced good parts with questionable parts (just because you bought parts new doesn't mean they are good- they should be tested before installation). You'd be ahead by a lot of money at this point if you went to a good shop that can do proper diagnosis and tell you what the problem actually is.
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Old 11-17-2017, 06:23 PM   #35
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Well the problem isn’t isolated to when the car is warm or cold. Seems like happens in both cases

I’ve checked for vacuum and exhaust leaks. My spark plugs are fairly new (I changed them at round 60k). I’ve cleaned my maf. Nothing I log seems out of the ordinary. It drives fine and doesn’t give me any problems at autox. The last thing I had left to change/check were the coils but that didn’t seem to make a difference which has me thinking it might be something with the heat.


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Old 12-05-2017, 03:25 AM   #36
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Data Log of 219A

This is the Data Log of before and after Check Engine light. I knew it was going to happen after I started the car.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gjP...ew?usp=sharing

This is the Data Log after Check Engine light of rpms fluctuate back and forth.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/13Mt...ew?usp=sharing
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Old 03-04-2018, 02:04 PM   #37
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Garage
No resolution yet?
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Old 05-02-2018, 08:07 PM   #38
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I saw today that there is a TSB related to P219A (yeah, me too).
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Old 05-24-2018, 08:39 PM   #39
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Yeah, it's TSB 01-177-16.
My less than 1 month old BRZ tS is at the dealership for this. They're taking a lot of things apart to adjust the valves and who knows what else.

Related thread:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125672
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