04-23-2018, 09:56 AM | #15 |
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I would definitely get rid of the that grill. Proper ducting will also make a difference if you don't have any.
FWIW I have a Full Blown Radiator, Factory Fans, and cools my 6.8ltr LS just fine.
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04-23-2018, 10:14 AM | #16 |
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It's common for people not running a thermostat to run a restrictor in it's place to keep the coolant running at the intended rate. Coolant running faster than it should cannot take on heat as effectively as slower moving coolant. I first heard about people doing this back in the late 80s/early 90s in the muscle car community, but I believe it was actually a Smokey Yunick discovery. Never tried it myself since I always use a thermostat on the street, and I think it is likely related to sustained high rpm operation like you'd only get under race conditions.
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04-23-2018, 01:26 PM | #17 | |
extra what?
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Quote:
Man, there's a lot going on in there.
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04-23-2018, 01:32 PM | #18 |
extra what?
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On breaking it down, the idea starts to make sense. This could be a problem straight out of a heat transfer text. I've just never considered it.
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04-23-2018, 06:59 PM | #19 |
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CSF radiator, stock fans/shroud, full ducting in front of the radiator, vented hood, AC-condenser-delete, electric water pump controlled by Motec. Temps stay at around 180-185F on track.
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05-14-2018, 02:39 AM | #20 | |
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Took the car to a shop to modify the intake manifold for better hood fitment. This requires modifying the water jacket pipe so we took everything a part and installed a 165 thermostat.
The thermostat made no difference at all. Idle temps after a short drive is 205 and while driving it's around 220. We still haven't changed the location of the filler cap to make sure there are no trapped bubbles but that is next along with removing the grill craft grill. Unfortunately I can't go back to OEM fans as I don't have enough space in the engine bay. If all fails, do you guys think a thicker FBM dual core radiator along with an oil cooler would be better than my Jackson Racing radiator with built in oil cooler? Quote:
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05-14-2018, 05:36 AM | #21 |
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I think I might have found the issue. Right after I posted my previous post I thought I would check which fans I'm running. I checked the invoice from when I ordered them from JDL and it clearly says 1328 CFM fans which are the high performance ones.
I checked the actual fans on my car and they're the low profile 900 CFM fans. So JDL might have costed me my previous engine which was over heating constantly and eventually dropped a valve. It's safe to say there wasn't sufficient airflow to cool a turbo FA20 let alone a V8. I'm going to upgrade to 1800 CFM fans next just to be safe. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk |
05-14-2018, 11:39 AM | #22 | |
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YIKES that's not a good sign. JDL is normally a very good manufacturer. I'd reckon reaching out to jesse to see if anything can be done.
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05-14-2018, 03:48 PM | #23 | |
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06-05-2018, 03:24 AM | #25 |
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Had a lot of testing and troubleshooting done the past two weeks once I got the twin disk installed and finally no more overheating!
The issue was how over complicated the routing of the coolant lines were. Typically you'd want to flow from top to bottom. With the 3UR having the flow in the opposite direction than the FA20 we had to cross the lines from right to left, and from left to right. This made bleeding the system a nightmare. First thing I did was switch back to the stock fans. Much better improvement in air flow over the 900 CFM spals. (JDL hasn't replied yet and they probably never will regarding sending the wrong fans). I also added a bleeding valve at the back of the engine where the heating lines are. Initially the temp would slowly climb to 185 and then shoot up to 230 in a matter of minutes at idle even with the fans on. squeezing the hoses, there was no pressure in them. Temp would fluctuate like crazy when driving (accelerating and decelerating) from 200-230 which mainly means there is air in the system. I drove the car for 6 hours to get it tuned in these conditions (2 hours two way drive and 2 hours tuning on the street with +20 WOT pulls) and man this engine didn't give a damn driving at +220 lol Back at the shop, once it cooled down, coolant would get sucked in to the point the overflow gets empty. It took 4-5 heating cycles to be able to get all the air out. Once that was done it would idle below 180F (Fans come on at 185 and turn off at 165). Driving aggressively for a few minutes temp would rise to 190 and would drop immediately below 180F while cruising. We took all the coolant lines off and reversed the flow in the radiator and we were able to bleed the whole system in one heating cycle. The grill is still on if anyone is wondering and it wasn't at all affecting air flow. Been driving it for the past few days and glad to say the car runs perfect! Now just to get the hood done |
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06-05-2018, 09:39 AM | #26 |
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Good to hear you got it figured out. I’m running the fullblown radiator and fan shroud kit on my ls swap. It also has the 900cfm spal fans. Under normal driving, so far, it’s running between 195 and 205 degrees, but I feel like it’s barely able to maintain that, not sure how it will do once I start pushing it hard, I’ll probably end up upgrading the fans soon.
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