STX Rules and Setup Questions

[nico_rsx]

Originally Posted by smg1138

I’ve been using Winmax W3’s for street and Autocross and they’ve been great. The initial bite isn’t as strong as some pads, but the modulation and overall stopping power is amazing. After bedding them in they’re pretty quiet most of the time. Using shims has helped a lot too. The only real downside is they dust a lot.

What shims are you using? OEM?
I tried to find titanium shims, but didn't find anyone selling them.

[smg1138]

Originally Posted by nico_rsx

What shims are you using? OEM?
I tried to find titanium shims, but didn't find anyone selling them.

I'm actually using the ones that came with my other StopTech pads. They're really thin and do a good job reducing noise. Not sure where you can buy shims like that by themselves though. I didn't use the stock shims because they seemed too thick to use with the already super thick Winmax pads.

[dvalue]

Originally Posted by smg1138

If it’s in your budget, you might want to consider Endless MX72 pads. They’re supposed to be the ultimate hybrid pad with 0-700C operating temp combined with minimal noise and dust. That’s probably what I’ll go with once my W3’s are done.

Bit more than I'd like to spend. My concern with the W3 are the "corrosiveness" of the dust.

[cjd]

Originally Posted by dvalue

Bit more than I'd like to spend. My concern with the W3 are the "corrosiveness" of the dust.

Stay away from Hawk and EBC then, from what I have seen. Far as I know, Winmax isn't particularly corrosive, except maybe to your lungs...

[dvalue]

Originally Posted by cjd

Stay away from Hawk and EBC then, from what I have seen. Far as I know, Winmax isn't particularly corrosive, except maybe to your lungs...

*adds W3's to cart*

[smg1138]

Got my Shorai battery installed. Was able to use the stock tie down by just using some 1" nylon spacers. It feels totally secure, so hopefully no issues passing tech.

Trying to decide if I should put some kind of foam shim between the tie down and top of the battery? Think I've seen some other people do that.

[cjd]

That tie down is a buckle risk. I'd recommend getting a solid one. I don't use foam, but I have one if the trays specifically for the battery...

[smg1138]

Originally Posted by cjd

That tie down is a buckle risk. I'd recommend getting a solid one. I don't use foam, but I have one if the trays specifically for the battery...

How is it a buckle risk? Do you think it could come loose? The only tray currently in production I've found for this battery is like $160 :/

[cjd]

Originally Posted by smg1138

How is it a buckle risk? Do you think it could come loose? The only tray currently in production I've found for this battery is like $160 :/

Perhaps I'm being paranoid.

A solid hold-down would alleviate this particular risk. That should be a lot less than $160.

The stock hold-down is formed (thin) steel - a little twist could put just enough of a stress line into the steel that it could decide to fold. Which would leave you with a very loose battery. Far less likely under normal conditions, but those aren't always guaranteed either...

A proper fitting battery tray is even better than a solid hold-down, and $160 sounds reasonable for a battery tray (depending on the specifics I guess) - about what I spent I believe.

I can't quantify how much of a risk it is, to be sure.

I've suffered losses due to a series of unlikely events, so I make note of the things that I'm not super comfortable with now... especially when a failure increases fire risk (which I did not encounter)

C

[strat61caster]

My battery is mounted similarly, it's survived a few autox's and being rear-ended twice in the last 6 months. Check it regularly as I think cjd is correct, you're putting pressure on the bracket to lock the battery down, if the bracket deforms (it's steel so it probably will over time) it can become loose and then you can start running into trouble. It's a passable temporary solution imho.

As an aside, my uncle had an NB miata, the thing would shut down upon hitting a bump randomly, you'd coast but could eventually restart and keep going. The battery was loose and it would slide into the bracket grounding out the car and turning everything off. My uncle was a certified mechanic, his gf's son was a certified mechanic, my father and I work as mechanical engineers, it stumped us all for a year.

It also passed every autox inspection it went through including a battery check, nearly a dozen or so. My brother noticed it a few hours after he bought the car, fixed it in 5 minutes.

[bmacfrs]

Originally Posted by smg1138

How is it a buckle risk? Do you think it could come loose? The only tray currently in production I've found for this battery is like $160 :/

If you're worried about that sort of thing, I used one of these...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/19cm-Alumin...xaXPr-&vxp=mtr

$10

just search on ebay for
"19cm Aluminum Light Weight Battery Tie Down Bar"

there is a variety of colors.

[Imp]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

I'm on PMu ns400 now, stock caliper, good street pad, but I'm pretty sure I've gotten a touch of fade on a big course on a hot day

How in Sam blazes are you getting fade - on an autox course?

Enquiring minds want to know. Are you just dragging the brakes? Stuck caliper? There's no reason at all why someone should get any fade at autox speeds and time on course... I would look at something being wrong/broken before blaming any pad for fade, including OEM. I don't care if you had light Left Foot Brake for all of 60 seconds, it's not going to be enough to heat the brake fluid beyond it's boiling point (which causes fade).


You may have glazed the pads, or gotten deposits on your rotors, but that's also not fade. That's just bad selections for the application.

--kC

[smg1138]

Originally Posted by bmacfrs

If you're worried about that sort of thing, I used one of these...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/19cm-Alumin...xaXPr-&vxp=mtr

$10

just search on ebay for
"19cm Aluminum Light Weight Battery Tie Down Bar"

there is a variety of colors.

Thanks! I was looking for that sort of thing. Just didn't know what size would fit the stock mount.

[nico_rsx]

Originally Posted by Imp

it's not going to be enough to heat the brake fluid beyond it's boiling point (which causes fade).
--kC

I'm pretty sure that fade is not break fluid boiling. Fade is when your brake pad temperature goes over it's operating temperature. You then need to press harder to have the same breaking force, and having the same breaking force can even become impossible even with more break pressure. This can happen when your well below fluid boiling (especially if you have a good fluid).


I've experience brake fade with the OEM pads on a special AutoX event where we do 3 laps without stopping (fading occure at the beginning of lap 3).