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Old 04-06-2018, 01:26 AM   #29
sid94
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Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0 View Post
Can’t you check for spark by pulling the coil, pulling the spark plug and inserting it in the coil? Turn the engine over and see if you are getting spark. If not then swap spark plugs or swap a new plug and continue to isolate a plug problem versus a coil problem. Seems like if you have compression and if you have fueling confirmed (pressure, delivery and tune) then this is a spark issue.



Seems like if it was a MAF issue then every cylinder would be bad. Same if it was a fuel regulator or any other component that is not cylinder specific.


It’s pretty tight I wasn’t able to have the coil just resting there with the plug in it I tried and it would fall or the engine would move too much and I wouldn’t be able to verify if there was spark or not and it had nowhere to ground to


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Old 04-06-2018, 01:30 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by wbradley View Post
The normal procedure to determine a faulty coil when tuned. Can you flash to a base tune and see what faults it gets on an OBD2?



Or mechanically the coil outputs could be measured with probes for current or voltage, multimeter is useful if you know what you're looking for.



Fuel, ignition, mechanical. Did you leave a rag in the inlet? Piss in the fuel tank?


Gas was bad but I changed it out and replaced plug after that and still nothing. As for the multimeter yea I do understand what you’re saying but again to be able to probe the wires/hold it in place/be able to read what’s going on all at one time is pretty tough I’ll give it a shot tho just gotta check the service manual for the specifications I should be getting


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Old 04-06-2018, 02:01 AM   #31
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It’s pretty tight I wasn’t able to have the coil just resting there with the plug in it I tried and it would fall or the engine would move too much and I wouldn’t be able to verify if there was spark or not and it had nowhere to ground to


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Get a friend to help. No point in continuing until you know.
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Old 04-06-2018, 08:09 AM   #32
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He sent me a base tune for my setup with those injectors and all. If that’s what you mean by scaled then yes they are. As for James super cool he’s been answering all questions he can but he’s just tuner so I don’t wanna bug him much. Says I was the first DI injector he’s ever seen stay stuck open lol


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I know who James is, he tuned my car. I drove 4 hours to meet up with him and spent 3 hours tuning it. Remote tunes are tricky so if you have the time or option to drive to him I would sir.
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Old 04-06-2018, 09:15 AM   #33
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Get a friend to help. No point in continuing until you know.


I do have a friend helping he’s cranking while I’m in the engine bay but I’ll give it another try and I’ll let you know what I find


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Old 04-06-2018, 09:37 AM   #34
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It’s pretty tight I wasn’t able to have the coil just resting there with the plug in it I tried and it would fall or the engine would move too much and I wouldn’t be able to verify if there was spark or not and it had nowhere to ground to


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Maybe something like this would help:
https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Electroni...extension+wire

I didn't study my search results very long but I bet you can get a single wire for cheaper. With that maybe you could get the plug out in the open where you can see it better.
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Old 04-06-2018, 10:41 AM   #35
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I do have a friend helping he’s cranking while I’m in the engine bay but I’ll give it another try and I’ll let you know what I find


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You can at least swap the coils, right, and keep the plugs the same? Try that. Then inspect the plugs.
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Old 04-06-2018, 05:36 PM   #36
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I had a similar issue when doing my turbo/injector/Motec install.

We had temporarily installed 4x Exhaust Gas Temperature thermocouples - one per cylinder. That let us immediately track down the cylinder with the problem and then fault finding become much easier.
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Old 04-11-2018, 12:26 AM   #37
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So I confirmed that I have spark on all 4 I took out my harness and traced my maf wired all the way to the big connector and nothing still. I still have the maf code but after I reinstalled the harness the car after a while of cranking and hard starting it turns on and idles for about a minute before it dies out. Maf is reading and the maf voltage from the signal with at around 700rpm fluctuates from 1.6-1.7 volts

I was told to check my fuel pressure and on the low side it is good but are there any common issues with high side not having pressure? I need to check again and see what my fuel pressure is at but I was sure I was getting good high side fuel pressure since it’s the only one with a sensor I should see it with scanner or with a log. Have you guys seen any issues with the high side fuel pressure not having enough pressure?
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Old 04-11-2018, 09:26 AM   #38
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assume you have looked over all the logging values using ecutek to make sure they are all read something sensible?
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Old 04-12-2018, 10:19 PM   #39
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assume you have looked over all the logging values using ecutek to make sure they are all read something sensible?
Yea for the most part, James said it all looks good except my fuel pressure which I can’t seem to figure out I’ve changed pump and it doesn’t seem to build pressure, the cam follower is in and it’s torqued right. According to Toyota manual it’s resistance between the pins is in spec. But I have low side fuel pressure being read by the high pressure sensor.
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Old 04-15-2018, 12:53 PM   #40
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So I swapped over my friends DI module and my pressure came up to 1.8 mpa but it requires 4 so I wanna see I’m kind of in the right track. What throws me off is that my pressure fuel sensor isn’t giving me a low fuel pressure code or any code for my fuel pressure
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Old 04-16-2018, 07:26 AM   #41
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So I swapped over my friends DI module and my pressure came up to 1.8 mpa but it requires 4 so I wanna see I’m kind of in the right track. What throws me off is that my pressure fuel sensor isn’t giving me a low fuel pressure code or any code for my fuel pressure
Everything is primed up nicely. No air in the system?
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Old 04-16-2018, 03:40 PM   #42
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Everything is primed up nicely. No air in the system?


Yes, but it fluctuates really bad it goes from 1.8 mpa to .5 then back up and so on it’s very annoying


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