Originally Posted by sid94 (Post 3067697)

Hello so like tittle states I am having an issue on start up.it starts and then dies and smells really rich



I have full blown kit with with GTX2867R id1000 injectors. Block is built with JE 10.5:1 86.5mm pistons Manley turbotuff rods, kings bearing both main and rod and cosmetic head gaskets and arp hardware



I was having an issue where my fuel pressure was dropping after priming pump I then replaced the pressure regulator and it stopped. After I was having issue where car would start then die. Took off manifold and found one cylinder pretty much drowned in fuel. Took all 8 injectors to be flow tested and service and found one of the direct injectors was staying stuck open.



Forward to today’s mission I got a new one and had it flow tested even tho it’s a new injector I don’t wanna be blindsided by it. All new seals on the direct injectors and the port ones. I put manifold back on and went to start it and it starts then dies, honestly it seems like if engine is running on 2 cylinders.



As for common problems I rules out injector mishaps by servicing and flow testing them. I’ve seen that the DI module needs a good ground and being that mine isn’t on the factory bracket it’s just connected with one bolt on the bottom that normally holds the module and then I ran bolt and nut through the top hole and ran that to the ground on the passengers side strut tower. The plugs are new. The car sat for 6 months and the gas was bad so I drained tank and put new gas and I replaced the plugs yet again Incase bad gas fouled them out.



I constantly have a mass air flow “no flow” code that doesn’t go away. I replaced with a known good one from friends car and mine worked fine on his but his didn’t get rid of my code



Tuner is James Martin tuning on ecutek.



Will post videos of what the car is doing tomorrow



Stumped doesn’t begin to describe what I am right now. I can normally fault trace and figure my shit out on my own but I am all out of actions now, so please any and all help is highly appreciated!!!!

Originally Posted by sid94 (Post 3067697)

I constantly have a mass air flow “no flow” code that doesn’t go away. I replaced with a known good one from friends car and mine worked fine on his but his didn’t get rid of my code

Originally Posted by ermax (Post 3067795)

I would focus there. If you've ever forgotten to plug it in and then start the car it stumbles really bad and if you don't aggressively help it run with lots of throttle it will die. It also smells like you dumped a gallon of gas on the ground. You proved it isn't the actual sensor but maybe the connector/wiring got damaged during the engine pull.

Originally Posted by JimmyMac (Post 3068223)

Recheck the big main harness. I was working on something that required me to unplug the main harness. When I plugged it back in and started the car, I got all kinds of error codes. Anyways, there was some flashing left on the plugs (from manufacturing molding process) that prevented the main harness from plugging in 100% (even though it was plugged and clipped in). I bent the flashing back and re-plugged in the harness. All the codes/issues went away. The flashing looks like a paper thin strip of plastic sticking out about 1~2mm along the edge of the front of the male plug. Anyways, it may or may not help. Just thought I'd mention it. I just remember the mass air flow sensor being one of the codes.

Originally Posted by FRS Justin (Post 3068242)

Bad coil packs will throw a code start with your fuel system pressure and then work your way to wiring and sensors. you also should have your tuner look at the tune maybe a corrupted file try a reflash

Originally Posted by sid94 (Post 3068283)

I was thinking it was a bad coil as I pulled my plugs and I cylinders 1 and 4 were black and sooty like if they were running and the other were coated in fuel for the most part and not sooty

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2a38fb5a11.jpg

As for the fuel system pressure it is fixed already high side and low side pressure are good but still no start. I checked all the grounds and made sure they were good and as for the fuel pump according to Toyota service manual my pump is within spec along with my fuel rail pressure sensor

I checked maf connector and checked harness routing no pinching but I will continue to check back till I get to the big connector


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by FRS Justin (Post 3068313)

The soot on the plugs took some run time so I would make sure you have 51 to 54 psi of fuel pressure and look for a piece of grass or something messing with the maf also find a tune that is known to work maybe a base tune before revisions that AFR is out of control

Originally Posted by GsxrMe (Post 3068325)

This is a really dumb question but it would also foul your plugs out and make it sound like it's only running on 2 cylinders. But.... you don't have your spark plug wires reversed on half of your engine? where you accidentally have cylinder 1 firing a cylinder 3 and cylinder 3 firing a cylinder 1 by chance do you? I bring this up because when I built my Hayabusa motor for my Turbo I somehow and I don't know how I did it but I swapped cylinder 1 and 2 spark plug connectors that went to the coil packs and it sounded like f*** and didn't run right. Your spark plugs just brought back memories. I slap the s*** out of myself when I found what I did.