How much price gap to fill if I trade in an old brz for a new one

[larryjohn]

Background Story:
Purchased an auto brz => Chose auto because it's my only car, easier for commute and long distance driving => Test drove my friend's manual 86 several weeks ago => Realized I would prefer a manual.

So, I'm currently considering trading in my brz and purchase an 18 one in manual. Question is: How much (extra) will I pay for this? (depreciation, unreturned tax, etc.)

[Adam_L]

The new car is new...not many variables to deal with.

On your used BRZ, how many miles are on it? Did you KBB it, to check value?

[NCtoBRZ]

Nobody on here can give you an exact answer on this, there are way too many variables. All that you can do is go to the dealership and see what kind of deal that you can work out. You will usually make more money selling it private party than trading it in, so if you got a great deal on your 17 BRZ when you bought it, you might not lose more than a grand or two selling it private party. You will almost certainly lose at least a few grand trading it in.
The MSRP is higher on 18s and they aren’t on the lots yet, so the dealer has no real incentive to give you a great deal on one. They’ll gladly let you roll over the negative equity into a new loan, but that’s a pretty terrible decision financially.

Short answer: You’ll get reamed trading in a new car this soon. If you are ok with eating thousands of dollars of loss, go for it.

[Veloist]

You didn’t provide enough information but this is the essential:

- How much do you owe on your car (if applicable)
- How many miles does your car have
- What condition is your car in, and any accidents?

Also, trading in a car IF you’re financing will vary greatly on your credit. Even with decent credit, you can still be turned down with a lot of negative equity or get an outrageous interest rate and end up paying $45k for a BRZ.

[Leonardo]

Unlike other threads like this, you have a 2017 auto. (Most have a 13-14) You could sell and buy an older MT, and not spend more $$$ than you already have.

Trading up will always cost you big time. I'm just estimating here... You may get 20 or so at the the dealership, and pay around 30k. So, not awesome. Private party will lessen the loss, but still, wouldn't you rather buy parts with that money?

[cjd]

For reference, I just went through this (not on purpose, mind you...)

Going from a (paid off) 2014 with 18k to a 2017 (both MT Limited in CBS) required about $12k cash infusion on my part just to get the new car home, stock for stock, and with a generous private party sale valuation on the old car. From there I still have more $ to sink into it to get it back to the same prep level, since not all of the parts I had survived (though most did).

If you have a loan, you may do significantly worse - totally depends on down payment and loan terms (length, APR).

My losses are largely on tax and prep work and time - I'd expect total valuation of the loss to exceed $20k out of pocket by the time it's all back together; though some of that is standard depreciation, it's hard to count it when you're not given a choice about having to get a replacement.

I'd look at what you can do with the ATX to make it more enjoyable for you, and appreciate the bits that make your commute a little less work (also, the better fuel economy) rather than trading for a MT. If you're comfortable eating the losses, forge ahead - however, my guess is you're probably not quite there, given the fact you're having to ask (rather than already knowing).

[Ernest72]

I would not do it, unless money is no object. Put it in manual mode and go hit some twisties, it really is fun and the shift are very good. Sure no left leg, but you will be paying a lot for that if you trade it in. And launching is not the same but this is not a launch car, its a finesse momentum car.

[Si_Chris]

These cars depreciate quick. Unless you have money to put down, you'll be rolling in negative equity.

Not worth it in my opinion to trade it in for the same car, but a manual version.

[Summerwolf]

Did you get gap protection?

Are there deer near where you live?

[why?]

you'd pay $5 k at least to get a new one. Probably more. As was mentioned above the only way to do that and not kill yourself financially is to go buy a 2013 and sell your car privately.

[Geese1]

Subaru also has their Guaranteed Trade-In Program. May want to look into that to get an idea of what Subaru will pay you for the car (assuming you meet all the conditions).

[Aluma007]

yup, my 2017 brz is worth 23300+ according to guaranteed trade in value thing.

[sprintertrueno86]

did you let your friend test drive your auto?

Maybe he'll trade his manual 86 for your auto BRZ.

[strat61caster]

I'd bet $5k (as estimated above on the 'old' car being worth somewhere around $23k at best) plus $2k-$3k in fees to the dealership and government, could be higher if they con you into paying more than ~$28k OTD on the new car, entirely possible depending on the area.

So assuming you're still paying off the '17, take your monthly payment and add about $150 to it for the next 60 months. It might be a little cheaper than that but I doubt it since you can't work this out on your own they're going to take advantage of you. ($7k/60 = $117/month)

Edit: just double checked as a note to out of staters, California sales tax on cars does not get to deduct price of trade in before that gets brought up.

Edit2: If you're not upside down on the loan going to an older car could put cash in your pocket and a MT in the driveway, a '14 BRZ should be a safe bet and not too hard to find for $20k or less.