What Type of Wood???

[Stang70Fastback]

Woodworking friends: help!

We bought some MDF boards over the weekend to play around with, and try building things (1/2"). It turns out MDF is all but useless if you want to put screws or even nails in along the edge; even if you pre-drill holes, it is prone to cracking.

What is the ideal type of wood material, that isn't too expensive, that comes in big sheets, or at least large, thin boards, that's straight, and that handles screws and nails for assembly? Plywood seems to be out because it's very floppy, and not at all flat. Input or suggestions welcome. I'm completely new to woodworking, and I've bought a lot of the necessary tools, but I'm not sure what type of wood works best.

For reference, the end goal was to build a pair of racing simulators, but we are starting with building a simple cat house as "practice."

[echo419]

if you went with a thicker(3/4) plywood you'd be fine and get a B/C grade and it'dd be flat/smooth plus you'll be able to paint it if you want.

[Stang70Fastback]

Originally Posted by echo419

if you went with a thicker(3/4) plywood you'd be fine and get a B/C grade and it'dd be flat/smooth plus you'll be able to paint it if you want.

So, something along these lines?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/23-32-in-...0063/302943420

My issue is I look at a page like this, and there are SO many different types of wood boards that I have NO idea which ones are best to use for these kinds of projects...

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Lumber-Co...vZbqm7Z1z0mcq7

[ZoLazoa]

Purebond from HD is good. If you can spend more baltic birch plywood is good.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[czechm8]

As mentioned, the most economical solution is the BCX plywood you referenced, or 12-ply Baltic birch type plywood. I would not go thinner than the 3/4" or 23/32nds. MDF has its advantages and disadvantages - not the best solution in this case.


I do see a potential problem with the design of your cat house though. That long horizontal section near the top is not supported on one end (unless you plan to affix it to a wall). Most cats aren't too heavy, but it wouldn't take much to break off that section with a jumping or landing cat.
I would not canti-lever that section more than half the distance you are currently showing (assuming you use 3/4" ply) or you risk it snapping off under stress.

[humfrz]

I suggest plywood (good one side); thickness depends upon the load put on it and how it's supported.


humfrz

[Clipdat]

Why you gotta call his cat(s) fat?

Originally Posted by czechm8

I do see a potential problem with the design of your cat house though. That long horizontal section near the top is not supported on one end (unless you plan to affix it to a wall). Most cats aren't too heavy, but it wouldn't take much to break off that section with a jumping or landing cat.
I would not canti-lever that section more than half the distance you are currently showing (assuming you use 3/4" ply) or you risk it snapping off under stress.

[Stang70Fastback]

Originally Posted by czechm8

As mentioned, the most economical solution is the BCX plywood you referenced, or 12-ply Baltic birch type plywood. I would not go thinner than the 3/4" or 23/32nds. MDF has its advantages and disadvantages - not the best solution in this case.

Thanks! I guess we can try some 3/4" plywood, or the birch stuff. This is useful information!

Originally Posted by czechm8

I do see a potential problem with the design of your cat house though. That long horizontal section near the top is not supported on one end (unless you plan to affix it to a wall). Most cats aren't too heavy, but it wouldn't take much to break off that section with a jumping or landing cat.
I would not canti-lever that section more than half the distance you are currently showing (assuming you use 3/4" ply) or you risk it snapping off under stress.

Jerk!

Lol, the image I provided was just to give a frame of reference for what we are building. It isn't a finished model. There will be more cutouts (for example at the top of that second ramp) and there will be a PVC pipe also supporting the end of that cantilevered section

[cjd]

At a big box store, the Birch plywood is likely ok, but you want the stuff with a finish grade surface.

Proper Baltic Birch is 3x the cost but can be worth it... You'll need to go to Owl Hardwood or similar. You get this for uniformity and because it's not a thin crappy surface veneer that'll fail first (and all too often, easily).

Your project will be fine in mdf. Use glue, jigs, and clamps. You can also pin while glue dries with a finish nailer or brad nailer. Screw's and nails require predrilling but also work. You do need to be smart about joint construction no matter what or you'll experience material failure.

Holler if you want a bit more of a hand than quick forum blurbs... I'm currently building a sound rig for my sister's band, and will get back to some built-in cabinets I'm building once I wrap that up... Had you not moved into the boonies I'd even be able to say I'm nearby.

C

[Stang70Fastback]

Originally Posted by cjd

At a big box store, the Birch plywood is likely ok, but you want the stuff with a finish grade surface.

Proper Baltic Birch is 3x the cost but can be worth it... You'll need to go to Owl Hardwood or similar. You get this for uniformity and because it's not a thin crappy surface veneer that'll fail first (and all too often, easily).

Your project will be fine in mdf. Use glue, jigs, and clamps. You can also pin while glue dries with a finish nailer or brad nailer. Screw's and nails require predrilling but also work. You do need to be smart about joint construction no matter what or you'll experience material failure.

Holler if you want a bit more of a hand than quick forum blurbs... I'm currently building a sound rig for my sister's band, and will get back to some built-in cabinets I'm building once I wrap that up... Had you not moved into the boonies I'd even be able to say I'm nearby.

C

I wouldn't mind some lessons. I'm far from "properly equipped" to do this kind of stuff, but I did finally buy a nice router, and yesterday I discovered how easy it is to clone pieces of wood using a router bit with a bearing. SO BRILLIANT. I'm thinking I should consider buying some more bits to allow me to make proper joints (either 45-degree joints, or whatever you call the ones where you cut a groove, and slot the other piece into it), but I also need to get some metal guides I can clamp down that will keep those cuts perfectly straight before I get too fancy.

[IceFyre13th]

Far be it from me to pass on what my girlfriend said.....shes a carpenter by day...

and I quote...." the best wood for nailing is morning wood, it can take a hammering for a while, but you must be careful about banging it too long as it my become soft ".......

So there you have it, from and expert no less...........your choice of wood should be morning wood.

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by IceFyre13th

Far be it from me to pass on what my girlfriend said.....shes a carpenter by day...

and I quote...." the best wood for nailing is morning wood, it can take a hammering for a while, but you must be careful about banging it too long as it my become soft ".......

So there you have it, from and expert no less...........your choice of wood should be morning wood.

Can confirm.

Source: .... uh...

[cjd]

Originally Posted by Stang70Fastback

I wouldn't mind some lessons. I'm far from "properly equipped" to do this kind of stuff, but I did finally buy a nice router, and yesterday I discovered how easy it is to clone pieces of wood using a router bit with a bearing. SO BRILLIANT. I'm thinking I should consider buying some more bits to allow me to make proper joints (either 45-degree joints, or whatever you call the ones where you cut a groove, and slot the other piece into it), but I also need to get some metal guides I can clamp down that will keep those cuts perfectly straight before I get too fancy.

You can do a ton with a sawboard and circular saw, router, and hand drill...

The downside of MDF is its dust... It's horrible on your lungs and gets everywhere. I've had to rebuild my router because of it, and I mostly avoid it now.

Anyhow, you know where to find me. If I'm not being grumpy about being slow as heck I might be inclined to be helpful...

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by IceFyre13th

Far be it from me to pass on what my girlfriend said.....shes a carpenter by day...

and I quote...." the best wood for nailing is morning wood, it can take a hammering for a while, but you must be careful about banging it too long as it my become soft ".......

So there you have it, from and expert no less...........your choice of wood should be morning wood.

DO NOT confuse with mourning wood!
Two totally different things.