Accusump install

[killboy]

Originally Posted by puma

yeah i was afraid the extra oil might be too much in the boxer, on our Honda engine that wasn't a concern but i don't know how much more oil the pan can take on the boxer before it hydrolock the engine.

We have run the 2qt accusump with a 7psi precharge with the manual valve left open sometimes during shutdown/startup along with the oil pan slightly overfilled (Accusump charged, valve closed when checking oil level) and it did not cause any problems like hydrolock at startup. This put about 7 quarts in the oil pan at startup. Larger Accusump models may cause problems, but the 2qt model does not in practice.

[Joesurf79]

So I am in the process of installing a 2qt accusump on my track BRZ, and I have a handle on the mounting and plumbing of it into the galley port under the AC compressor. My question is regarding initial operation. Once fully installed, what I gather is that I need to keep the valve closed at least partially, so the accumulator isn't "stealing" fill pressure from the main galley in the motor at start up for at least a few seconds, then open the valve fully so that it can be filled by the oil pump.


My questions:
1) Should I put an extra quart in the pan for the first start, and then close the valve once engine operation has provided enough pressure to force the extra quart into the accumulator - then check the level in the pan?


2)Should I try to trap the 2qts in the accumulator in stages? Example sequence: add some oil to pan, crack accumulator valve, drive to build pressure, fully open valve to accumultor, drive more to keep pressure up, close accumulator valve, check level, add to pan, etc?


2) Once all is settled, were one to leave the accumulator valve fully open upon shutdown, should there be a true extra 2 qts in the pan once it fully discharges? for a total of 7.8 qts in the pan?


3) What is the install / fill procedure others are using to get their accusumps in and functioning initially without causing overfill issues / or starving the motor initially?

[killboy]

It's good that you're being cautious, but I feel you're overthinking some of this. The engine will idle and run fine with +/- 2 quarts of oil, as long as you're not beating on it.

So with that in mind, I would recommend this startup procedure: close AS valve, slightly over-fill the engine (~6qts), start up, allow to come up to operating temp, open AS valve, check that pressure gauge on AS reflects typical engine operating pressure, rev engine to about mid-range (3-4k rpm) and close valve while pressure is up, turn off engine, check and fill oil pan to normal level.

Now, with the manual valve setup, you are going to be putting in work to really use the AS as intended. Ideally, when you get ready to kill the motor with the AS in operation/valve open, you will want to do that rev, close the valve, then kill the engine. Then, before you start it, open the valve to let the oil pre-lube the bearings, start the engine after about 5 seconds of valve opening. You don't HAVE to do that last part before starting, you can just start up like normal then open the valve, but you lose the benefit of pre-lube...which really isn't an issue on our cars.

As for true capacity, I'm not sure about that...the "2qt" designation may include the space occupied by the air/piston on the opposite side of the cylinder to the oil-filled side. Just make sure when you go to change your oil you open that valve and drain the AS as well. If you get tired of messing with the manual valve, (don't really need to use the AS unless beating on the car anyway) look into the electric valve options that tie into the ignition and open/close it automatically for you and start-up and shut down.

Originally Posted by Joesurf79

So I am in the process of installing a 2qt accusump on my track BRZ, and I have a handle on the mounting and plumbing of it into the galley port under the AC compressor. My question is regarding initial operation. Once fully installed, what I gather is that I need to keep the valve closed at least partially, so the accumulator isn't "stealing" fill pressure from the main galley in the motor at start up for at least a few seconds, then open the valve fully so that it can be filled by the oil pump.


My questions:
1) Should I put an extra quart in the pan for the first start, and then close the valve once engine operation has provided enough pressure to force the extra quart into the accumulator - then check the level in the pan?


2)Should I try to trap the 2qts in the accumulator in stages? Example sequence: add some oil to pan, crack accumulator valve, drive to build pressure, fully open valve to accumultor, drive more to keep pressure up, close accumulator valve, check level, add to pan, etc?


2) Once all is settled, were one to leave the accumulator valve fully open upon shutdown, should there be a true extra 2 qts in the pan once it fully discharges? for a total of 7.8 qts in the pan?


3) What is the install / fill procedure others are using to get their accusumps in and functioning initially without causing overfill issues / or starving the motor initially?

[Joesurf79]

Originally Posted by killboy

It's good that you're being cautious, but I feel you're overthinking some of this. The engine will idle and run fine with +/- 2 quarts of oil, as long as you're not beating on it.

So with that in mind, I would recommend this startup procedure: close AS valve, slightly over-fill the engine (~6qts), start up, allow to come up to operating temp, open AS valve, check that pressure gauge on AS reflects typical engine operating pressure, rev engine to about mid-range (3-4k rpm) and close valve while pressure is up, turn off engine, check and fill oil pan to normal level.

Now, with the manual valve setup, you are going to be putting in work to really use the AS as intended. Ideally, when you get ready to kill the motor with the AS in operation/valve open, you will want to do that rev, close the valve, then kill the engine. Then, before you start it, open the valve to let the oil pre-lube the bearings, start the engine after about 5 seconds of valve opening. You don't HAVE to do that last part before starting, you can just start up like normal then open the valve, but you lose the benefit of pre-lube...which really isn't an issue on our cars.

As for true capacity, I'm not sure about that...the "2qt" designation may include the space occupied by the air/piston on the opposite side of the cylinder to the oil-filled side. Just make sure when you go to change your oil you open that valve and drain the AS as well. If you get tired of messing with the manual valve, (don't really need to use the AS unless beating on the car anyway) look into the electric valve options that tie into the ignition and open/close it automatically for you and start-up and shut down.

Thanks for the info killboy! Worked like a champ. Figure I'd throw some pics up of the bracket I made to locate the accusump in the same place as the Element car. Made from mild steel flat bar stock from home depot. Thanks again for the info

[Hags86]

Hi All

I'm planning on installing an Accusump to protect against low oil pressure with high lateral G forces. Attached is a plot of oil pressure vs RPM. The colour is lateral G. You can see lots of low oil pressure events with Gs over 0.7 or so. It has a Moroso oil baffle installed but this doesn't appear to work so well.

I want the accusump to discharge at pressures lower that 50psi and I'm on power.

The problem with this engine is that the idle oil pressure is way too low and will let the oil discharge into the sump when idling. You'll need to either select the 35 PSI valve and only turn it on once you are on the track, or select the 25PSI valve and not provide enough protection.

I have a standalone ECU and am planning on using the EPC valve of the Accusump but rather than a pressure switch to activate the value I'm thinking of using an output channel of the ECU to discharge the system. I need to think about the circumstances but probably something like:

Discharge system (EPC on)
- when oil temp is above 80C and
- when RPM is above 4500 and
- when oil pressure is below 50psi

I could even even work in accumulator pressure into the logic with another sensor but haven't though about this too much.

Would appreciate some comments on this approach.

[Takumi788]

Originally Posted by Joesurf79

Thanks for the info killboy! Worked like a champ. Figure I'd throw some pics up of the bracket I made to locate the accusump in the same place as the Element car. Made from mild steel flat bar stock from home depot. Thanks again for the info

Quoting your post from a year ago but I love this setup. The mounting position is perfect and the cable to open the valve from the cabin is brilliant. Great work!

Have you had a chance to test it on track?

Is that an oil pressure sender on the line next to the valve? I assume I will need that as well since the accumulator will be taking up the spot where my oil pressure gauge currently is.

[Code Monkey]

^ He started following my lines at hpde's, became slow, ditched the accusump.