Engine Swap: Which Would You Choose!??

[NOHOME]

For practical reasons... The answer has to be LSx.

It is the only option that has a properly designed and developed kit to install the drivetrain.

It is the only option that can be maintained by a mechanic who is not all "YO DUDE...JDM all things, NOS and BOOST!!!".

It is the only path that offers a reasonable sales audience if and when you sell.

How much power you want is pretty much up to you and your checkbook, and already on the shelf.

As to the weight and balance question...you ARE kidding right?

Then again, if this is just all fantasy builds, I'll have what what powers this:

[cf6mech]

Mild LS build is the way...if not totally stock.....nothing exotic...nothing that over powers the platform unless drift or drag......biggest support base.....cheap parts that are always available.....hence the phrase LS swap everything.

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

Supercharged RalliSpec EJ25; to preserve the car's balance and instant response.

Oh how things change.

Now? A destroked LS with an 8000rpm red line.

Like this:
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/4-8l-cr...pm-ls-stroker/

Or this:
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/vem...oke-of-genius/

High revving 600hp engine with 450+ lb-ft of torque on tap from 2500rpm to red line in a 2850lb car? Sounds like heaven. And it's a VERY real possibility if can't solve the wandering rocker issue...

[-Willis-86touge]

Lfx v6! 30lbs lighter, with mods 300whp flat torque curve, able to rev above 7000 so similar to our motor. Uses roughly same transmission. Very cheap since it's not a v8. Probably close to the lsx swap? And if we were to move the engine back to the firewall as the lsx had (54/46 distribution) so with the lfx moved back and added weight savings let's say roughly (52/48) also these motors have the header built into the head leaving a single down pipe on each side this would make mocking up the exhaust a lot easier.

[Irace86]

Read an article that 500cc cylinders are ideal and to me a 3 liter flat six would be ideal so the 2017 twin turbo 3.0 liter carrera s engine is at the top of my list if money was no object.

[Irace86]

Originally Posted by Irace86

Read an article that 500cc cylinders are ideal and to me a 3 liter flat six would be ideal so the 2017 twin turbo 3.0 liter carrera s engine is at the top of my list if money was no object.

http://www.motorauthority.com/news/1...iter-six-video

[mrspindlelegs]

Originally Posted by why?

Subaru Diesel engine

I was thinking of the Volkswagen 1.9L BEW motor. Incredible amount of aftermarket parts support and the engine has a very stout bottom end. It's easy to tune it for ~ 200 Hp and somewhere around 325 ft/lb torque without having to beef-up the bottom end. When you drive it more leisurely, you will likely get around 50 mpg if the final drive ratio is right.

Still, this kind of swap would be rather expensive because of the cost to build the motor and then have a drivetrain that can hold-up to that low-end torque.

[why?]

Originally Posted by mrspindlelegs

I was thinking of the Volkswagen 1.9L BEW motor. Incredible amount of aftermarket parts support and the engine has a very stout bottom end. It's easy to tune it for ~ 200 Hp and somewhere around 325 ft/lb torque without having to beef-up the bottom end. When you drive it more leisurely, you will likely get around 50 mpg if the final drive ratio is right.

Still, this kind of swap would be rather expensive because of the cost to build the motor and then have a drivetrain that can hold-up to that low-end torque.

any swap is absurdly expensive. Hopefully by sticking to a subaru engine you could save a little cash on some things. I don't want to know how much it would cost to get a VW engine to work with everything, or if you would just swap the entire dash out and all the electronics.

[mrspindlelegs]

Originally Posted by why?

any swap is absurdly expensive. Hopefully by sticking to a subaru engine you could save a little cash on some things. I don't want to know how much it would cost to get a VW engine to work with everything, or if you would just swap the entire dash out and all the electronics.

I agree 100%; the technical challenges would be considerable to say the least. I would only give such a swap serious consideration if I won a Lottery jackpot that was large enough to allow me to retire immediately. That would give plenty of time to work through all the bugs and not worry about the cost.

Realistically, I love the FR-S the way it is and will only diddle with putting stickier tires on it and maybe a header / tune. Further exhaust modifications would only occur if the header / tune combo yielded and undesirable exhaust note that could be corrected with midpipe / catback mods.

[Tomita San]

Originally Posted by Cuchullain

There is actually one japanese shop car with an H6 in it, but I think it was the older EZ30/6, not the newer EZ36R.

Out of curiosity I looked into this swap for a little while, and it seems like it might be just as much work as any other swap. Although some places quote that Japanese car as using the stock trans, saying it bolted up. I couldn't find enough info on the bolt patterns of either the FA20 or the EZ36R to say whether it is possible before my curiosity ran out though. The most I got out of it is that the newer EZ36R would be the best bet, although the older EG33 is pretty cheap and has been done a number of times into a bunch of different vehicles.

I believe @PERRIN has some experience with an EZ30 swap...

But I think the bottom line is that it would probably run somewhat more expensive than an LS swap.

EDIT: found the car from Japan

More expensive? Don´t think so..

FA20 trans fits the H6. In fact every subaru trans fits every subi engine (I´ve swapped a 2014 Forester Diesel 6 sp. box into my H6 Outback)

For the FA20:
The starter is on the other side, but this can be solved with a little grinding

Flywheel and clutch from the FA20 fits.

EZ30 Engine mounts fits, dropping a H6 in is like a 15min. job.

EZ30 ecu plugs are the same as the FA20 ecu.

Same DBW as the FA20.

The main concern is the crank trigger wheel w.different pattern. It causes a disfunctional EPS, ABS and VSC, tach and some other stuff needing engine speed signal.

Btw. the EZ30 and EZ36 have the same outside dimensions. The only difference is the bulkier front cover because of the twin AVCS on the EZ36. The 36 is even a tiny bit lighter than the 30.