Ohlins Road & Track for FRS/BRZ suspension install/review thread

[Trefoil]

I'm on mpss 245... I recently have been experiencing noise from the front suspension of the vehicle. After putting it on a lift, I saw no damage to any of the bushings or tie rods, however, the passenger side spring could be rocked back and forth slightly.

Have any of you experienced spring compression or loosening of the preload on the springs?

It turns out the passenger side wheel has a few locked up wheel studs, so until next week I can't get the car on a lift to do measurements of the springs to check whether they've compressed from mileage.

[ajc209]

Originally Posted by Trefoil

I'm on mpss 245... I recently have been experiencing noise from the front suspension of the vehicle. After putting it on a lift, I saw no damage to any of the bushings or tie rods, however, the passenger side spring could be rocked back and forth slightly.

Have any of you experienced spring compression or loosening of the preload on the springs?

It turns out the passenger side wheel has a few locked up wheel studs, so until next week I can't get the car on a lift to do measurements of the springs to check whether they've compressed from mileage.

Sounds like the preload has gone. Did you check the spring collar was tight?

It just needs to be snug, so if it has come loose, you can get car on the lift and just snug it up with a little preload and tighten the locking collar and jobs a good'un.

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by Trefoil

I'm on mpss 245... I recently have been experiencing noise from the front suspension of the vehicle. After putting it on a lift, I saw no damage to any of the bushings or tie rods, however, the passenger side spring could be rocked back and forth slightly.

Have any of you experienced spring compression or loosening of the preload on the springs?

It turns out the passenger side wheel has a few locked up wheel studs, so until next week I can't get the car on a lift to do measurements of the springs to check whether they've compressed from mileage.

They will slowly take a set. I don't know who Ohlins uses for springs (I assumed Eibach) but even the best springs will take a little bit of a set.

I'd measure the free length of the spring and reset the preload to Ohlins' spec and keep driving

[ajc209]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

They will slowly take a set. I don't know who Ohlins uses for springs (I assumed Eibach) but even the best springs will take a little bit of a set.

I'd measure the free length of the spring and reset the preload to Ohlins' spec and keep driving

I think they are Eibach and pre stressed to reduce sagg.

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by ajc209

I think they are Eibach and pre stressed to reduce sagg.

[Trefoil]

Thanks all! I'll do a follow up. I have about 30k mi mixed road, track and offroad on sugar sand and turf rally use on my set. Hopefully it's just a matter of setting preload up again and driving away after an alignment.

[ajc209]

Originally Posted by Trefoil

So... I may have been a bad target user for the MI20 version and did a bit of rally and sugar sand road use with them.. Superb performance, might I add, with the hard street/track settings engaged.

If the springs have compressed, but the dampening is fine, it's just a matter of switching out the springs or just giving them another set of preload following the manual, right?

They arnt really designed to take the pounding of rally driving but yes if the dampers are okay then its just a case of adjusting the preload to make sure the spring is snug.

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[mav1178]

In case anyone still wants the old MI20 version, there's a set available at FRSport. Used, but revalved + with new DIF top hats.

#131 on this list.

http://www.frsport.com/index.php?tar..._box_clearance

[nikitopo]

I was reading lately that you can increase the (rebound) spring rate inside the damper and use softer external springs. This can give a more comfortable ride, without sacrificing the performance on the track. I am aware that Sachs is using this in their performance coilovers, but not aware if Ohlins did the same in their MP20 kit. Any ideas if their dampers have internal springs?

[ajc209]

Reviving this old thread, I currently have the MI20 and using them with 235 AD08Rs

I plan to step up to Dunlop DZ03s for trackdays (that a very fast semi slick used in race series). I know the 60N F&R spring rate isnt ideal but will it work on track? Anyone else running a very grippy R compound on the 60N rates?

[Scracho]

Curious...

In much discussion with the gents down at Ohlins USA they have confirmed that the MP20 kit have enough valving built into them to accommodate a 35% stiffer spring


We changed the kit over almost 3 years ago, but the old kit part number still remains in circulation, somehow. Here’s what’s up:
The kits are identical save for three main things: One, we cut the spring rates in half. The old kit had 7kg/mm rates, front and rear. The SUS MP20 has 4K and 3K rates. Two, we eliminated the camber plates and top mounts from the kit. Three, we changed the valving to match the lower spring rates. Other than that, they are the same.
The story I heard was that some high-up test driver at Öhlins tried the kit, hated it, and these unilateral changes were made to better suit the street market. We loved the old kit, but the new one is a better balance for the street.
We cannot swap the springs, as they arrive from the factory already in the box. You are welcomed to purchase any aftermarket springs that fit the 65mm ID x 200mm H dimensions. We also sell ours for $78 apiece. The stock valving is good for a 35% increase in spring rate before we recommend a revalve. You might be able to just swap the springs and get away with it, but at some point the car is going to bounce down the road due to too high of a spring rate. You will also loose some adjustability range without a revalve as well. -Jake

So based on my math that should put a 35% increase around 310LBS (5.5K) Front and 230LBS (4K) Rear

In my experience most things are manufactured with MTBF (Mean Time Before Failure) and Ohlins likely has anticipated more than a year or two of use without rebuilding (Fit within Warranty period)

NOW... If someone who didn't care about warranty and wasn't interested in the FULL range of adjustability and was only going to use these for Track/Weekend drive purposes could they not push the barrier slightly and perhaps run a 45% increase over standard MP20 rate and attempt a 350LBS (6.2K) Front and 250LBS (4.5K) Rear?

Now I know this would limit your dampening adjustability and likely make each click feel less vague as now the stiffer spring is playing a larger part in the equation, but I'm curious how much this would affect the balance

(I'm trying to make the best of owning these without rebuilding this year)

[churchx]

So valving IS changed to match lower spring rates. IIRC previously i've heard that it's same for both MP20 & MI20. That's both good and bad, good as Ohlins didn't do half assed job, but properly did matching, and bad in that there is no simple way of spring swap to get kit like old one was, at very least revalving needed too. Adding extra springs & revalving costs to already not the cheapest coilover set hurts desirability a bit.

[ajc209]

It's not half asses if the damping range is big enough to cater.

Someone needs to get the on a shock dyno to prove it one way or other as the person I spoke to says otherwise and this person was involved in development of both kits....and quite high up at Ohlins.

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[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by ajc209

It's not half asses if the damping range is big enough to cater.

It is if they tell you to use the same damper settings like another suspension company I've experienced...

Looks like the instructions use a 'standard' range of adjustments Ohlins tries to valve all of their kits to replicate 0-7 track, 5-10 back road,10+ street.

https://www.ohlins.eu/en/products/au...gt86-2012--39/

I can't quite find an instruction manual for mi20 but I would be surprised if it's different implying that they should have revalved. Or they have radically missed the mark somewhere.

I've found some suspension company 'support' are less technical support and more salesmen instructed to close tickets as fast as possible, at least in the US, not attacking the validity of your source, I hope he's right for the buyers of the mp20.

FYI your source was wrong about the spring rates, 60N/mm on the mi20 not 7kg/mm, check the early parts of this thread.


Edit: go for the stiffer springs, worst case scenario you drive around on full stiff and it still feels soft and bouncy, you can always go back to the old springs, how stiff were you thinking after a revalve?