Steering rack options? - Page 2 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

Sleepless · 05-14-2017, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yoshoobaroo

What happens if you pull the PS fuse?

Guess I'll have to give it a try. Next track day is the 26th...

zdr93523 · 05-15-2017, 12:26 AM

Other cars solve this problem by making a very simple sheet metal heat sink that you can attach to the motor.

Sleepless · 05-15-2017, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zdr93523

Other cars solve this problem by making a very simple sheet metal heat sink that you can attach to the motor.

Wonder if easy to do on a street car. I imagine it is easier to do during a race car build when it's all stripped out.

zdr93523 · 05-15-2017, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sleepless

Wonder if easy to do on a street car. I imagine it is easier to do during a race car build when it's all stripped out.

I haven't looked for the the PS motor, but it is super simple. You can literally bend something that looks like a heat sink and zip tie it to the motor and it should facilitate enough heat transfer to keep it from cutting out. I've never thought about it since we run such wide non-DOT slicks on the car and the steering effort is generally heavier, but mine may be having the same problem.

zdr93523 · 05-15-2017, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sleepless

Wonder if easy to do on a street car. I imagine it is easier to do during a race car build when it's all stripped out.

I'll see if I can make a solution for this. If I do, I'll offer it up.

Element Tuning · 05-17-2017, 02:59 PM

If you pull the fuse you'll have an impossible time turning the car just like when the system shuts down. You either reduce your caster as I'm assuming you've added some or you build a cooler. I was going to do this with copper tubing and a computer cooler pump.

The ECU CAN option is beyond a simple fix but it's something we can do with the Hydra EMS. Given I felt the car was better with less caster (feel and braking) and it pretty much eliminated the system consistently shutting off, it's best just to leave well enough alone.

Try making a simple fluid cooler as I don't think a heat sink alone will not do the trick.

amirnew · 04-28-2022, 10:57 AM

Do we have any solution for this problem?
Having that issue on my 2013 after changing the tyres to semi slicks.
And onlyyyyy on trailbraking.
If you leave the brakes before the turn or once it happens you are good to go.

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05-17-2017, 02:59 PM	#20
Element Tuning Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Drives: Hydra EMS Powered FRS Raven Black Location: Maryland Posts: 839 Thanks: 54 Thanked 1,021 Times in 365 Posts Mentioned: 61 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	If you pull the fuse you'll have an impossible time turning the car just like when the system shuts down. You either reduce your caster as I'm assuming you've added some or you build a cooler. I was going to do this with copper tubing and a computer cooler pump. The ECU CAN option is beyond a simple fix but it's something we can do with the Hydra EMS. Given I felt the car was better with less caster (feel and braking) and it pretty much eliminated the system consistently shutting off, it's best just to leave well enough alone. Try making a simple fluid cooler as I don't think a heat sink alone will not do the trick.

04-28-2022, 10:57 AM	#21
amirnew Member Join Date: Dec 2020 Drives: 2013 BRZ sprintex SC Location: Haifa Posts: 35 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Do we have any solution for this problem? Having that issue on my 2013 after changing the tyres to semi slicks. And onlyyyyy on trailbraking. If you leave the brakes before the turn or once it happens you are good to go.

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