SCCA Solo D Street discussion

[Shark_Bait88]

Figured that was the case.

Fingers crossed that torquing and/or replacing the axle nuts fixes the issue.

[renfield90]

Getting off topic here since this is a street thread, but before you go upgrade axles you need to think that through. If the axle is no longer the first point of failure, which part is? How expensive/difficult is it to replace it?

From a competitive perspective, it might be worth living with the occasional 30 minute axle replacement vs. lunching your diff or worse.

Back on topic, a street class car should have zero axle issues. Are you sure it's the axle and not the e-brake? IIRC there's a TSB for the latter and the clicking sounds exactly the same.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by renfield90

Back on topic, a street class car should have zero axle issues. Are you sure it's the axle and not the e-brake? IIRC there's a TSB for the latter and the clicking sounds exactly the same.

That's why it's probably the axle nuts, I replaced mine at 40k miles, I bet I do it again at 80k, Subaru life. Zero drivetrain mods except for Motul fluid and a k&n filter. Fwiw I did not have luck retorquing, maybe if I went crazy and over torqued it that would help, but they're only $6 to replace.

The e brake is distinct imo, the axle nut happens when the car is rolling, easy to replicate under power at walking speeds, my e brake only makes noise when engaged and therefore when the car is stationary like when torquing the wheels or hefting my fat ass out of the driver's seat after parking.

[Shark_Bait88]

Didn't mean to derail things, but my original question was an inquiry about street class rules.

It's a $9 fix to do the axle nuts, well a bit more since I have to go buy a 32mm socket, but I figure it's worth doing that to see first.

My drivetrain mods are the same as strat's, as I'm sure most people's are in street. Similar to what strat said, I don't have any clicking when engaging the ebrake. It's always under power at walking speeds in 1st and 2nd.

Enough people seem to have had success with the axle nut replacement that it seemed worthwhile trying. I'd rather jump into a $9 repair, then having a shop charge me to check/tighten my ebrake, or spend $700 on axles when I might not need to.

[nico_rsx]

Originally Posted by renfield90

IIRC there's a TSB for the latter and the clicking sounds exactly the same.

@renfield90
Do you have a link for the handbrake tsb?
I have a brand new BRZ, and noticed if I engage the e-brake when rolling (not enough to lock the wheel, just enough to slow-down), there is a noticable "tock" or "thud", just one time when engaging the brake.
Maybe it's normal, I've never had a "drum in disc" type of handbrake.
Thanks

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by nico_rsx

@renfield90
Do you have a link for the handbrake tsb?
I have a brand new BRZ, and noticed if I engage the e-brake when rolling (not enough to lock the wheel, just enough to slow-down), there is a noticable "tock" or "thud", just one time when engaging the brake.
Maybe it's normal, I've never had a "drum in disc" type of handbrake.
Thanks

I do not, sorry.

"Tock" or "thud" I've felt as well while the car is rolling. I think that's normal, but different than the "click" we're talking about.

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by Shark_Bait88

Didn't mean to derail things, but my original question was an inquiry about street class rules.

It's a $9 fix to do the axle nuts, well a bit more since I have to go buy a 32mm socket, but I figure it's worth doing that to see first.

My drivetrain mods are the same as strat's, as I'm sure most people's are in street. Similar to what strat said, I don't have any clicking when engaging the ebrake. It's always under power at walking speeds in 1st and 2nd.

Enough people seem to have had success with the axle nut replacement that it seemed worthwhile trying. I'd rather jump into a $9 repair, then having a shop charge me to check/tighten my ebrake, or spend $700 on axles when I might not need to.

Yeah, if it's under power, it's an axle or nut issue. Good luck, hope the nut is the fix!

[Locust]

FYI there's profanity at the end of the first video.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zmS5KOeWZA"]2017 Crow's CT Saturday - Joey Run 3 - YouTube[/ame]

This is my fastest run from day one. I coned all three of them and was pretty pissed with the last one (as you can see in the video). I hit the 2nd to last cone on the hard right just before the finish or else I would have been about 3-4 tenths faster (I lifted a little after I hit it, no sense risking the car on a dirty run). I'd like to think hitting the cone was because I'm not used to the grip on concrete and didn't expect the car to turn in so sharply but really I think I just wasn't going fast enough there.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8HQOQqoTZk"]2017 Crow's CT Sunday - Joey Run 3 - YouTube[/ame]

Fastest run from day 2 (had a clean run but it was over 2 seconds slower than this one). I hit the exit cone of the C-Box but I didn't let up on this one like I did the day before. Wasn't as upset at this one since I was already too far out because of day 1 to really make any movement on the rest of the class. Stood on two dirty runs this weekend! First time I've done that and hopefully the last.

Overall not a bad weekend for me considering the car isn't fully prepped, I haven't driven on concrete much, and I'm trying out the new BFG Rival 1.5s for the first time.


Jonathan and Erik if you're out there... here's Kit's first run from Sunday.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0bPLvlIYnE"]2017 Crow's CT Sunday - Kit Run 1 - YouTube[/ame]

[G_Ride]

Originally Posted by Locust

FYI there's profanity at the end of the first video.

This is my fastest run from day one. I coned all three of them and was pretty pissed with the last one (as you can see in the video). I hit the 2nd to last cone on the hard right just before the finish or else I would have been about 3-4 tenths faster (I lifted a little after I hit it, no sense risking the car on a dirty run). I'd like to think hitting the cone was because I'm not used to the grip on concrete and didn't expect the car to turn in so sharply but really I think I just wasn't going fast enough there.

Fastest run from day 2 (had a clean run but it was over 2 seconds slower than this one). I hit the exit cone of the C-Box but I didn't let up on this one like I did the day before. Wasn't as upset at this one since I was already too far out because of day 1 to really make any movement on the rest of the class. Stood on two dirty runs this weekend! First time I've done that and hopefully the last.

Overall not a bad weekend for me considering the car isn't fully prepped, I haven't driven on concrete much, and I'm trying out the new BFG Rival 1.5s for the first time.


Jonathan and Erik if you're out there... here's Kit's first run from Sunday.

Thanks Joey. That was an amazing run from Kit

[AustinTX]

Anyone running a bigger rear bar on a DS BRZ? My 15 is all stock suspension plus the crash bolts, and it's still got a small bit of understeer both on track and at autocross.

[Briankbot]

Originally Posted by AustinTX

Anyone running a bigger rear bar on a DS BRZ? My 15 is all stock suspension plus the crash bolts, and it's still got a small bit of understeer both on track and at autocross.

I ran a bigger rear bar in CS and managed to trophy at Nats '15 (my first trip to nats ever) on that setup but won't be trying it in DS. It was pretty damn loose. What part of the corner is the car understeering in?

Revisit your alignment settings first and look into getting some adjustable shocks if you can swing it. My current setup with a front bar and OTS Koni's on RE71s has very controllable corner exit (throttle induced) oversteer, mild mid corner understeer unless overdriven, and controllable rotation on corner entry with trail braking. It's very easy to drive and may the best setup I've ever had on the car: 1st local event on this setup took top pax and this last weekend was 6th out of 139. Chances are you will be pretty happy with what adjustable rebound can do for you.

I'm not sure what rear bar you are considering but you will likely need some pricey end links to make it work well. If you go that route stick with spherical ones like Perrin offers to avoid binding. The other thing to consider is that the mounting points for the rear bar are pretty weak. The TRD rear bar comes with reinforcements to accommodate the increased bar stiffness but that wont be legal in DS and you may risk bending the mounting points with a stiffer bar.

[AustinTX]

Slight bit of steady state understeer is prevalent on the track, and tire wear backs that up. Not something a shock can fix. I can hustle the car into being balanced with throttle application, but Would like to get that balance naturally.. I will look into the mount issue, but only looking at going up 1-2mm from OEM.

[SeanRTR]

A bit late, but runs from Pittsburgh..
Saturday rain:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yWiTu8g7Ug&t=23s"]Sean Grogan 2017 Pittsburgh Match Tour Sat. Afternoon - YouTube[/ame]


Sunday Dry (mostly)
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gP20AxoBTY&t=276s"]2017 Pittsburgh Match Tour Sean Grogan DS - YouTube[/ame]


225/50/16 Bridgestones, fastest 2wd DS on every run both days. TRD front Bar, Koni's full soft Saturday, somewhere in the middle sunday, stoptech pads, HKS exhaust, 12lbs unicorn wheels.

[Briankbot]

Originally Posted by AustinTX

Slight bit of steady state understeer is prevalent on the track, and tire wear backs that up. Not something a shock can fix. I can hustle the car into being balanced with throttle application, but Would like to get that balance naturally.. I will look into the mount issue, but only looking at going up 1-2mm from OEM.

I think the '17s have a bigger stock rear bar in that size range. If you can find one used I'm guessing it could be the cheapest way to test more rear bar as it should work with the stock end links.