Best Track Coilovers Sub $2000

[strat61caster]

I'm glad you have confidence in your setup, if more of us had access to damper dynos there'd be a lot less crap on the market.



Edit: Pic was fixed

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

That picture is not public.

I'm glad you have confidence in your setup, if more of us had access to damper dynos there'd be a lot less crap on the market.

Jeff edited his post, should be public now.

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by jwisjw

Dyno graphs of OTS units and revalved units would suggest otherwise. For ~$1600-$1700 that would include front camber plates, hypercoil springs, custom valving, pillow ball mounts in the rear with isolated rear spring perch and adjustable endlinks, you really can't beat the value of that. Rides comfortable on the street (obviously relative based on your spring rates) and offers performance. What more could you ask for in that price range?

Because at $1700, if you add $300 to that you have a far superior Ground Control setup.

Much better camber plates, built in strut bar, custom valved Koni's, Eibach Springs etc.

If you're spending $1700, you can spend $2000. And I'm sorry, the rebuilt Taiwanese stuff does not hold a candle to Koni's valved to Ground Control's specs.

[oinojo]

[jwisjw]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

Because at $1700, if you add $300 to that you have a far superior Ground Control setup.

Much better camber plates, built in strut bar, custom valved Koni's, Eibach Springs etc.

If you're spending $1700, you can spend $2000. And I'm sorry, the rebuilt Taiwanese stuff does not hold a candle to Koni's valved to Ground Control's specs.

Please elaborate on what a "better camber plate" is? Although I have limited miles on my suspension, the bearings out of the box, both front and rear are tight, similar to FK Bearings F1 fit. They come with upper spring perches for the front that also are on a bearing allowing it to rotate. I'm able to get the desired static camber just fine.

The fact that there are 3 different front options for the ground control kit, the body length is compromised thus allowing for endlink binding similar to what you see on a MCS/JRZ... How is that better?

Hypercoil springs are all dyno tested and used to be scribed on the springs but I think they have gone away with all of that and now are marked with the standard part #. Would be comparable to an Eibach Spring?

The Mono tube rear shock on the ground control kit appears to be a standard 30 series shock that is used for oval track racing that possibly has 3 adjustments? Also the rear springs are not isolated from the upper mount causing unwanted bind.

Now I ask, does the ground control kit give adequate compressed travel without prematurely bottoming out or requiring a bumpstop to help aid in this.

Given that I could easily build 2817/2812 strut/shocks for my car, I chose to go this route and am just sharing my opinion and feedback. People within our local STX class have probably spent easily $2500 or more when you include camber plates, shock mounts, endlinks, springs and I've beaten and lost to them on this package.

[pgranberg11]

I have the ground control complete suspension. I'm curious to see where the responses go because in for learning.

[oinojo]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

Because at $1700, if you add $300 to that you have a far superior Ground Control setup.

Much better camber plates, built in strut bar, custom valved Koni's, Eibach Springs etc.

If you're spending $1700, you can spend $2000. And I'm sorry, the rebuilt Taiwanese stuff does not hold a candle to Koni's valved to Ground Control's specs.

Sorry, but Jeff handles servicing and revalving of Koni's on a daily basis. If he says there is value in the Megan (after rework), then the value is there for a $1700 setup out performing a $2000+ setup. Why spend extra coin when you don't have to?

[pgranberg11]

From my understanding (not defending or anything) but based off of talking points from their website, they mount the camber plates on top in the engine bay giving a lot more travel for the shock. Also, the camber/caster plates are almost 2 and half inches thick which I think is kinda nice reinforcement. I'd like to see more discussion on the ground controls since they aren't talked a lot about. In for more information

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[jwisjw]

Originally Posted by pgranberg11

From my understanding (not defending or anything) but based off of talking points from their website, they mount the camber plates on top in the engine bay giving a lot more travel for the shock. Also, the camber/caster plates are almost 2 and half inches thick which I think is kinda nice reinforcement. I'd like to see more discussion on the ground controls since they aren't talked a lot about. In for more information

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

I have a customer that purchased these second hand from someone and complained about the front struts being blown, they have the double adjustable 8611 inserts package and without taking them apart just yet, it appears that they possibly have bottomed out. Not using a bumpstop or insufficient travel would most likely cause this. Best way to check for this is to take off the spring and disconnect the swaybar and check your compressed travel.

In regards to understanding more of the rear, do you recall having 3 or so clicks of adjustment by depressing a button and rotating the shaft? If so, you most likely have just the standard oval track shocks that they offer in the koni motorsports catalog. Or maybe find a part # on the shock body?

[pgranberg11]

Originally Posted by jwisjw

I have a customer that purchased these second hand from someone and complained about the front struts being blown, they have the double adjustable 8611 inserts package and without taking them apart just yet, it appears that they possibly have bottomed out. Not using a bumpstop or insufficient travel would most likely cause this. Best way to check for this is to take off the spring and disconnect the swaybar and check your compressed travel.

In regards to understanding more of the rear, do you recall having 3 or so clicks of adjustment by depressing a button and rotating the shaft? If so, you most likely have just the standard oval track shocks that they offer in the koni motorsports catalog. Or maybe find a part # on the shock body?

I know I just have the standard Koni yellows. Nothing special in terms of the back there are no "clicks" for adjustment which I feel kinda bummed about because it's hard to gauge the adjustment. The best way I could describe it is the it has 2 full 360 degree turns and then an additional 180 at the most. Maybe more of a 90 degree turn after the two full 360s

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by oinojo

Sorry, but Jeff handles servicing and revalving of Koni's on a daily basis. If he says there is value in the Megan (after rework), then the value is there for a $1700 setup out performing a $2000+ setup. Why spend extra coin when you don't have to?

A bumpstop is just one of many tools in suspension tuning, but he seems to be insinuating that only poor quality shocks or poorly designed setups use them, which is blatantly false. I guess Moton, Penske, etc are all poor quality shocks because they have a variety of different bumpstops for different applications. It's like he isn't sure what they are really for.

I have no idea why the import guys like to hate on KONI over the all the rebranded Taiwanese stuff that has to be rebuilt before it's even considered usable for anything but scene points.

[Racecomp Engineering]

I would not run shocks without a bumpstop on the street.

- Andrew

[pgranberg11]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

I would not run shocks without a bumpstop on the street.

- Andrew

I agree with this... I feel like bumpstops are just extra protection. They were added to my ground controls at an additional cost, but well worth it for how much little extra I had to spend to get them.

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

I would not run shocks without a bumpstop on the street.

- Andrew

I wouldn't run a conventional damper on a track without bumpstops either. I can't think of any reason why you would, can you?

I won't pretend to understand enough about Magnetorheological dampers or DSSV type dampers to say anything on those.