ABS, CEL, and TC lights on, limp mode

[drz400dude]

So I was going to replace a wheel stud on the right rear the tire shop broke. I removed the caliper, then the four bolts, and the axle nut. I tried to pull the disk off but it wouldn't come off. I didn't want to break anything so I just bolted it all back up.

Now the ABS, CEL and traction control lights are on, and I can't rev any higher than about 4k RPM. I didn't mess with any wheel speed or abs sensors. What is on the rear wheel that I may have missed?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

[Ultramaroon]

I know you said you didn't mess with the wheel speed sensors but that's probably just it.

If you pushed the spindle in after removing the nut, you probably damaged the encoder, sensor, or both.

[drz400dude]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I know you said you didn't mess with the wheel speed sensors but that's probably just it.

If you pushed the spindle in after removing the nut, you probably damaged the encoder, sensor, or both.

Hmm. I'll take another look today after work. There's the sensor that comes in to the top of the housing. Where is the encoder?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by drz400dude

Hmm. I'll take another look today after work. There's the sensor that comes in to the top of the housing. Where is the encoder?

It's on the spindle outboard of the sensor (IIRC) so, when the spindle is pushed in, it pushes up against the sensor.

[drz400dude]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

It's on the spindle outboard of the sensor (IIRC) so, when the spindle is pushed in, it pushes up against the sensor.

Ok so I took the sensor out and its definitely broken. Also, it must run along that flange on the spindle right? Well mine is bent, probably from pulling the assembly out with the sensor installed (I tried to watch a video about doing the front wheel stud removal, couldn't find one on the rear). So you are saying the sensor that goes down in the hole rides on the inboard side of that flange on the spindle? Like some sort of magnetic pickup?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by drz400dude

Ok so I took the sensor out and its definitely broken. Also, it must run along that flange on the spindle right? Well mine is bent, probably from pulling the assembly out with the sensor installed (I tried to watch a video about doing the front wheel stud removal, couldn't find one on the rear). So you are saying the sensor that goes down in the hole rides on the inboard side of that flange on the spindle? Like some sort of magnetic pickup?

Yes, that's exactly it. That flange on the spindle is the encoder. I don't know how sensitive the pickup is to encoder runout but maybe it can be straightened?

The most critical thing is to make sure it doesn't make contact with your new sensor.

Bummer man. On the up side, at least you learned some good stuff there.

[drz400dude]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Yes, that's exactly it. That flange on the spindle is the encoder. I don't know how sensitive the pickup is to encoder runout but maybe it can be straightened?

The most critical thing is to make sure it doesn't make contact with your new sensor.

Bummer man. On the up side, at least you learned some good stuff there.

Thanks for the help. I have a new one coming in tomorrow.

I'm going to take my other wheel off and see if I can see what that side looks like. Hopefully I can see what the gap is and make the damaged side look close. Appreciate it!

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by drz400dude

Thanks for the help. I have a new one coming in tomorrow.

I'm going to take my other wheel off and see if I can see what that side looks like. Hopefully I can see what the gap is and make the damaged side look close. Appreciate it!

Pull the sensor on the good side and look in there with a flashlight while you turn the hub.

If you can make the damaged side look the same, you may be ok. I haven't personally seen it so I'm guessing based on prior experience with similar systems.

Good luck!

[drz400dude]

So it looks like that flange runs about even with the back side of the hole. So I got a flathead screwdriver that was just smaller than the hole, put it down in there and turned the hub by hand to make sure that it was pushed back far enough not to hit the screwdriver (or the new sensor when installed). Hopefully it isn't too wavy to cause the signal to fluctuate enough to make it think there is a problem.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by drz400dude

So it looks like that flange runs about even with the back side of the hole. So I got a flathead screwdriver that was just smaller than the hole, put it down in there and turned the hub by hand to make sure that it was pushed back far enough not to hit the screwdriver (or the new sensor when installed). Hopefully it isn't too wavy to cause the signal to fluctuate enough to make it think there is a problem.

Contact is death for the sensor. Too far away results in loss of signal (commutation)

Make sure it's clean in there. The encoder is made up of a bunch of radial spokes of weak permanent magnets. They'll pick up flecks of rust and other ferrous particles which will also make a mess of your new sensor.

Let me know if you get lucky with this. I have no idea if it will fly.

[drz400dude]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Contact is death for the sensor. Too far away results in loss of signal (commutation)

Make sure it's clean in there. The encoder is made up of a bunch of radial spokes of weak permanent magnets. They'll pick up flecks of rust and other ferrous particles which will also make a mess of your new sensor.

Let me know if you get lucky with this. I have no idea if it will fly.

So I was super careful running the new sensor. Ran it up through the trunk and snapped in all the new connectors. Installed the sensor into the hub, and turned by hand to make sure I didn't hear anything touching that shouldn't be.

Cleared the CEL and it immediately came back on. :mad:

Tried 3 times. Got out, slammed my car door, and then looked at my open trunk and realized when I ran it up into the trunk I didn't connect the harness in there. Duhhhh.

Connected, cleared CEL and all lights went out. Went for a 5 mile test drive, no issues. Drove 250 miles home yesterday and still no problems. So the tolerance must be fairly lenient on the ABS sensor.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by drz400dude

Tried 3 times. Got out, slammed my car door, and then looked at my open trunk and realized when I ran it up into the trunk I didn't connect the harness in there. Duhhhh.

Connected, cleared CEL and all lights went out. Went for a 5 mile test drive, no issues. Drove 250 miles home yesterday and still no problems. So the tolerance must be fairly lenient on the ABS sensor.

Haha... I know that feel! Doh!

Thanks for the update. Well done.

[15limited]

Do you guys have any more information on wheel speed sensor system? CEL, limp mode slip lights and ABS light are on, I can clear CEL but abs and slip light stay on then CEL comes right back after torque runs its clearing sequence. P2158 shows on scan. Replaced both rear speed sensors and sensor rings and both sensors rings, I have the same resistance in both sensors when testing with an Ohm meter. Ran the car on a dyno and Right Rear speed sensor reading through Ecu Tek says wheel speed exceeds 300kph.
Could contact with sensor while battery still connected fry the slip ecu? thanks in advance!