New RACING short shifter from Individual Racing Parts

[Tor]

@TeutonicShift89 , as far as I can imagine the shifter is maintenance free. The only part that could wear/need greasing is the link at the button of the lever that connects to the shift rod. Of course, I can't say what e.g. 100.000 miles of wear would do to it. In any case, I don't see any short-term maintenance requirement.

@redlined600 , the lever has a great shape and the finish has a nice feel to it (anodized = not quite smooth). I don't miss the stock leather shift knob (which I think felt great).

@sw20kosh , you may not have it at all. I think it's like the stock shifter were some cars have it even after having the TSB applied. In any case, as I have it, I am working on a solution.

[COO86L]

Can/do you ship to upside down land (Australia)? If so I may want to upgrade from the Kartboy I currently have. Stiffened mounting and braces diff has greatly increased the vibration in the Kartboy which is starting to get on my nerves.

[The Racers Line]

Finally got the car out on track! Absolutely in love with this shifter. Another shop owner sat in my car to check it out, and bought the last one I had! Time to order more

Camera was specifically angled to get more footage of the shifting

[Cybmx]

Originally Posted by The Racers Line

Finally got the car out on track! Absolutely in love with this shifter. Another shop owner sat in my car to check it out, and bought the last one I had! Time to order more

Camera was specifically angled to get more footage of the shifting

Do you need stiffer engine/trans mounts for the shifter? If it can work normally without these additions, I might have to get one sooner

[Jonsey]

Originally Posted by The Racers Line

Finally got the car out on track! Absolutely in love with this shifter. Another shop owner sat in my car to check it out, and bought the last one I had! Time to order more

Camera was specifically angled to get more footage of the shifting

Looks great. Excited for my car to get finished up in the shop so I can install mine.

[The Racers Line]

Originally Posted by Cybmx

Do you need stiffer engine/trans mounts for the shifter? If it can work normally without these additions, I might have to get one sooner

At the very least I'd recommend a transmission insert bushing. Something like the white line or super pro insert. I have the white line, and stock engine mounts and had no issues.

[icybrzzz]

Originally Posted by The Racers Line

Finally got the car out on track! Absolutely in love with this shifter. Another shop owner sat in my car to check it out, and bought the last one I had! Time to order more

Camera was specifically angled to get more footage of the shifting

Videos like this make me want this so much more!

[TeutonicShift89]

So would this shifter be less effort to shift than the usdm Trd shifter mod? Basically that sucker makes it very high effort to shift in and out of gear even when it is warmed up. I've used it for about a year and would be more likely to go this route if the irp is direct but not "hard" to shift.

Also does this get rid of some of the 2nd and 4th gear "crunchiness?"


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[ryoma]

Originally Posted by TeutonicShift89

So would this shifter be less effort to shift than the usdm Trd shifter mod? Basically that sucker makes it very high effort to shift in and out of gear even when it is warmed up. I've used it for about a year and would be more likely to go this route if the irp is direct but not "hard" to shift.

Also does this get rid of some of the 2nd and 4th gear "crunchiness?"


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I suggest you change your transmission and differential oil. I personally use Motul Gear 300 and love it, though it is "harder" to shift into gear when cold. it is not a problem for me since I am in 1st gear when I leave my community anyways so it gives it plenty of time to warm up when I hit the main road.

[TeutonicShift89]

Originally Posted by ryoma

I suggest you change your transmission and differential oil. I personally use Motul Gear 300 and love it, though it is "harder" to shift into gear when cold. it is not a problem for me since I am in 1st gear when I leave my community anyways so it gives it plenty of time to warm up when I hit the main road.

I've already changed to a millers oil synthetic. The effort is entirely due to the design of the Trd kit.


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[ryoma]

Originally Posted by TeutonicShift89

I've already changed to a millers oil synthetic. The effort is entirely due to the design of the Trd kit.


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the crunch might not be the shifter though. to me, it sounds like old transmission oil that causes the crunch when shifting

[TeutonicShift89]

Originally Posted by ryoma

the crunch might not be the shifter though. to me, it sounds like old transmission oil that causes the crunch when shifting

It's not that big of a deal really. Changing the transmission oil did not make that big of a difference in my car at least. Mostly I'm interested in the shifting effort which I would think is easier based on the greater leverage from the taller shifter arm.


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[ryoma]

Originally Posted by TeutonicShift89

It's not that big of a deal really. Changing the transmission oil did not make that big of a difference in my car at least. Mostly I'm interested in the shifting effort which I would think is easier based on the greater leverage from the taller shifter arm.


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this is on my list of "to buy" items, though not at the very top. if no one else gives any input regarding shifting effort then I might later on (depending on when I actually buy it). however, from what I have gotten from all the posts is that it is not as "forceful" as the CAE shifter and more casual, meaning that you do not have to commit to a shift in order for it to go into gear (which means that it will take less force to get into gear)

[Tor]

Originally Posted by ryoma

this is on my list of "to buy" items, though not at the very top. if no one else gives any input regarding shifting effort then I might later on (depending on when I actually buy it). however, from what I have gotten from all the posts is that it is not as "forceful" as the CAE shifter and more casual, meaning that you do not have to commit to a shift in order for it to go into gear (which means that it will take less force to get into gear)

It probably always a good idea to committing before actually shifting, no matter which shifter.

There is no resistance getting it into gear, more than what the gearbox naturally produce. The shifter itself has no resistance what so ever.

I am still not 100% sure about what the spring on the CAE shifter does, so take this with a grain of salt. I suppose it is spring loaded back to neutral and hence you need to overcome the spring force getting it into gear. I also suppose the purpose is for the spring is to assist getting it out of gear faster and maybe artificially create more force on the shifter so it feels more springy during the shifts and encourages to make the shift more forcefully.

The springs that counts are those centering the shifter side to side (so you don't e.g. go into 5th instead of 3rd). These springs are located inside the gearbox itself and can be upgraded with e.g. MTec springs. I did this in combination with the IRP shifter and would highly recommend doing so.

I can't give an opinion about what is better. What I can say is that the IRP shifter shifts very easily and effortlessly even during casual driving.