Terrible Resale Value?

[serialk11r]

I mean, I spent multiple weekends removing plastidip overspray on my car and cleaning it thoroughly, but it's not like you could tell from an ad, where the pictures just depict a shiny silver car. The paint has some scratches and stuff in a few spots, but that's what you would expect from a 3-4 year old car isn't it?

I regret buying this car because I didn't need the practicality and didn't find it fun enough. I didn't expect reselling a nearly bone stock car would be this hard. Lesson learned, don't buy a "practical" car you don't love unless it's a true beater or if money isn't a concern.

[extrashaky]

Originally Posted by Pacific Auto

Sorry guys but our twins are on the below than average spectrum.

Anyways here's a quick list of similar vehicles. Most are cheaper/worst cars getting higher resale values. And no I didn't choose the highest prices ones, there was dozens similar to these.

'13 WRX $21k https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/ctd/5816572213.html
'12 WRX $19k https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sg...850269848.html
'13 Miata $20k https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/ctd/5849535607.html
'12 miata $20k https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sf...839266502.html
'13 370z $20k https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/ctd/5822089388.html
'12 TC $16k https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/5850912755.html
'13 Genesis Coupe $17k https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/5846410498.html
'12 Mustange V6 $18k https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/ctd/5815839491.html

KBB is just a guide. In my experience their prices are 9/10 times way lower than the actual market is.

KBB isn't perfect, but it's a lot more scientific than some random guy on the internet looking up a handful of Craigslist listings. The car isn't losing its value any faster than it should. You're just having a hard time facing reality with respect to real world depreciation of your car.

[Yardjass]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

My paint looks like absolute shit to anybody who cares to look at it. The only way these things will have good looking paint 5+ years after they roll out of the factory will be the cars fortunate enough to spend most of their time in a garage and those with anal retentive owners from day one.

A good detail can probably bring mine up to 8/10 minus the places where it's lifted, but I'd have to put some serious effort into fixing the dings and scrapes that have accumulated.

I'm glad I don't plan on selling it and worrying about resale.

Yeah, my paint isn't perfect either but it is in a condition I deem acceptable for the age of the car. Some of the ones I looked at in person were bad. Like someone was speeding through a forest and caught a bunch of branches bad.

Originally Posted by extrashaky

KBB isn't perfect, but it's a lot more scientific than some random guy on the internet looking up a handful of Craigslist listings. The car isn't losing its value any faster than it should. You're just having a hard time facing reality with respect to real world depreciation of your car.

I'm thinking I might just be experiencing shell shock because some of the vehicles I was cross shopping were Jeeps, WRX's, and 4x4 pickups. I will say though, there is not a huge demand for these things and most people that sell are going to have to knock a bit off of their asking price, and probably wait months to sell their's at all. Demand and marketability affects resale value as well, which is also the reason people are somehow selling beat up nissan coupes for 2 or 3 times their blue book value.

[extrashaky]

Originally Posted by Yardjass

I'm thinking I might just be experiencing shell shock because some of the vehicles I was cross shopping were Jeeps, WRX's, and 4x4 pickups.

I have two Jeeps, so I'm in that world also. You can't use Jeeps as a benchmark for depreciation. Some of them are priced a lot higher than you would expect for the age and mileage. Even the shitty Fiat ones hold their value better than they should on the reputation of the older ones that are still going after 400K miles.

The same goes for other 4x4s, at least the ones built to last. You can't compare something like that to a small import designed to be replaced within 4 or 5 years.

[funwheeldrive]

Just give it time. Clean cars that are popular with modders usually bounce back after 10 years.


I'm starting to see clean neon SRT-4s selling for 12k these days and they were 19k new in 2004. A lot of 86s I see for sale either have tons of mods, automatic transmission, or salvaged titles. I can only imagine how hard it will be find a clean manual 86 in 10 years.

[NOHOME]

A 2013 twin is noting more than a used car with maintenance cost that you can anticipate being higher than for an ordinary car.

Brakes are expensive
Shocks are expensive
Oil changes at over $100 and the need to feed premium fuel drives up maintenance cost
The DI technology is a big question mark and one that would make me hesitate to buy used
With loans for new cars being zero and loans for used cars being 6% its an up-hill battle when you add the anticipated maintenance cost for a 4 year old car.

The silver lining to this is that once you can start buying them for under 10k, I expect to see a lot of LSx conversions and that is a good thing.

[funwheeldrive]

Oil changes at over $100

I feel bad for anyone who pays $100 to have their oil changed in their 86...

I feel like this car is relatively cheap, especially compared to other cars that frequent the race track.

I expect to see a lot of LSx conversions and that is a good thing.

Why not just buy a corvette?

[NOHOME]

Originally Posted by funwheeldrive

I feel bad for anyone who pays $100 to have their oil changed in their 86...

I feel like this car is relatively cheap, especially compared to other cars that frequent the race track.



Why not just buy a corvette?

You have a secret to get SAE 0-20 synthetic oil cheap? Cause here in the great white north its $75 by the time you walk out the door plus $20 for the filter. (Canadian tire prices).

I gagged the first time I had it done at the jiffy-lube at $110, but after paying the DIY price, figured it was not such a big deal.

We are also privileged to pay 13% sales tax on top of these prices.

[darthpnoy1984]

Originally Posted by NOHOME

A 2013 twin is noting more than a used car with maintenance cost that you can anticipate being higher than for an ordinary car.

Brakes are expensive
Shocks are expensive
Oil changes at over $100 and the need to feed premium fuel drives up maintenance cost
The DI technology is a big question mark and one that would make me hesitate to buy used
With loans for new cars being zero and loans for used cars being 6% its an up-hill battle when you add the anticipated maintenance cost for a 4 year old car.

The silver lining to this is that once you can start buying them for under 10k, I expect to see a lot of LSx conversions and that is a good thing.

If your complaining about costs you need to look at Ferraris and Porsche tune up costs now that is expensive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Cole]

Originally Posted by darthpnoy1984

If your complaining about costs you need to look at Ferraris and Porsche tune up costs now that is expensive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah yes, lets compare a $26k car with a car that has a sticker price of 10 times what the twins are worth. Seems legit.

[TylerLieberman]

Originally Posted by NOHOME

A 2013 twin is noting more than a used car with maintenance cost that you can anticipate being higher than for an ordinary car.

That can often be the case when you're talking about any sports car

Originally Posted by NOHOME

Brakes are expensive

Disagree. EBC and Project Mu both make pads that cost less than $200 for all four corners. That's cheap.

Originally Posted by NOHOME

Shocks are expensive

The suspension on these cars are pretty good from the factory. Needless to say, any OE quality replacement shoks are going to be up there in price. Even still, the fact you can get a set of upgraded Bilstein shocks for this car for sub $1,000 if pretty good.

Originally Posted by NOHOME

Oil changes at over $100 and the need to feed premium fuel drives up maintenance cost

I don't know where you're going that's charging you $100 for an oil change, but that's a ripoff. Oil change can easily be done yourself within 20 minutes for the cost of some oil and a filter. If you don't have the means to do it yourself, just go to a Subaru dealer and get it done for like $50 or whatever they charge. Furthermore, the difference between premium and regular fuel is negligible. Maybe $5-$7 more per fill up?

Originally Posted by NOHOME

The DI technology is a big question mark and one that would make me hesitate to buy used

I can understand this, but not so much the DI part of it. Just the new engine in general was my concern, though there are quite a few people who have a substantial amount of miles, and have yet to encounter any issues.

Originally Posted by NOHOME

With loans for new cars being zero and loans for used cars being 6% its an up-hill battle when you add the anticipated maintenance cost for a 4 year old car.

Valid point, but that's true for all used vehicles across the board, not just the FRS/BRZ.

Originally Posted by NOHOME

The silver lining to this is that once you can start buying them for under 10k, I expect to see a lot of LSx conversions and that is a good thing.

To each their own. I actually don't care for the endless LS conversions.

As somebody who went from an FRS to a '16 STI, I can tell you the FRS is pretty cheap. Even with my discounts, brake pads run me $400 and change for a set; twice the price of the FRS. Rotors run me close to $500, also more expensive than the FRS.

Then there's the cost of fuel, which I average about 21mpg when I'm nice. Compare that to my old FRS, where I could pull close to 30mpg. I spend about $45 here in SoCal to fill up and that gets me about 280 miles of range. Then there's also the cost of tires. RS3s in stock FRS size is $128 per tire. In stock STI size, it's $184 per tire. Over $200 more per set, which will wear out sooner because of the AWD layout and excess weight of the STI.

If we want to talk expensive, let's talk GTR lol. My Dad has one and I've taken the car to Nissan numerous times for different services. Oil change is $150. Diff/transmission service is $1200. Both of which are supposed to be done by Nissan to log the data, clear values, and keep warranty in check. Tires are roughly $2,000. Brake pads are a few hundred per axle. Rotors are like $500 per axle.. And the list goes on.

I think the FRS is pretty cheap to maintain. Yes, the resale did go down quite a bit more than I expected, but it happens. That's part of why I got out of it and got an STI. However, I miss the low running costs. So much so, I might end up going back to a small FR car in the coming years. Probably an ND Miata lol.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Cole

Ah yes, lets compare a $26k car with a car that has a sticker price of 10 times what the twins are worth. Seems legit.

30% depreciation is still 30% depreciation whether it's applied to a thousand bucks or a hundred thousand bucks.

[Psypher]

As someone that just bought (as in this weekend) a used FRS in California, the pricing is all over the place out here imo. I was surprised with how much some people wanted for the vehicles. I ended up buying from a dealer in SoCal because they had what I wanted at a good price (17k for a Series 10 with 15k miles), and it was certified so I get the extended warranty. I didn't look much at the private sales as most I saw were modified or just kind of beat up.

[jvincent]

Originally Posted by NOHOME

You have a secret to get SAE 0-20 synthetic oil cheap? Cause here in the great white north its $75 by the time you walk out the door plus $20 for the filter. (Canadian tire prices).

You do know that Canadian Tire has oil on sale pretty regularly for 40% and sometimes 50% off.

DIY oil change for me runs about $55 before tax including and OEM filter.