Pads and fluid for next year

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by icybrzzz

is it okay to run SRF on a daily?

I do, I've been running SRF for about 1.5 years now without issue.

[Tor]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Any car seeing a track should be flushed at least once a year anyway, so not a concern.

That wasn't the question. The question was for a daily.

And even with a daily that doesn't see track Castrol recommends SRF to be flushed once per year.

Hence, maybe:

Originally Posted by icybrzzz
Believe it or not I called a local shop about it a few months back. They told me if I was dailying the car to run rbf600. They told me that SRF was bad on a daily...

[wparsons]

If it's not seeing track use, why do you need a high boiling point fluid?

The higher the boiling point, the more hydroscopic it's going to be, which means more frequent flushes. OEM is every 3 years, so it's not like you're going from a lifetime fluid to a yearly flush. RBF600 should also be flushed yearly, not just SRF.

If you're driving hard enough to need a higher boiling point fluid, you should be flushing yearly. Doesn't need to be track use, although I find it hard to believe you'd be boiling fluid on streets.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by icybrzzz

Believe it or not I called a local shop about it a few months back. They told me if I was dailying the car to run rbf600. They told me that SRF was bad on a daily...

I don't mind paying more if its THAT good. Just like anything else I put on my car.

What shop told you to not run it on a daily?

[Tor]

Originally Posted by wparsons

If it's not seeing track use, why do you need a high boiling point fluid?

Are you asking me?? I don't know. I'm not the original poster. I was just answering the question.

Still, I agree with the shop. No point in using 80$ fluid (that needs to be flushed once a year) on a daily driver that isn't used on track.

[smg1138]

Originally Posted by wparsons

If it's not seeing track use, why do you need a high boiling point fluid?

The higher the boiling point, the more hydroscopic it's going to be, which means more frequent flushes. OEM is every 3 years, so it's not like you're going from a lifetime fluid to a yearly flush. RBF600 should also be flushed yearly, not just SRF.

If you're driving hard enough to need a higher boiling point fluid, you should be flushing yearly. Doesn't need to be track use, although I find it hard to believe you'd be boiling fluid on streets.

Castrol SRF actually has a very high wet boiling point which is really what matters. I wouldn't be surprised if it lasted much longer than a year. Castrol is probably just covering their ass by recommending annual changes.

[icybrzzz]

Originally Posted by wparsons

What shop told you to not run it on a daily?

I believe it was Nextmod Markham. The car will see plenty of track days which is why I even had it as an option.

[ModBargains.com]

Wait you guys use brakes?! Is that the middle pedal between the gas and clutch?!

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by smg1138

Castrol SRF actually has a very high wet boiling point which is really what matters. I wouldn't be surprised if it lasted much longer than a year. Castrol is probably just covering their ass by recommending annual changes.

They're also targeting the heaviest brake abusers, so they're definitely going by the worst case scenario.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by icybrzzz

I believe it was Nextmod Markham. The car will see plenty of track days which is why I even had it as an option.

Can I make a guess that they don't carry it, and wanted you to buy something they did have?

[Lynxis]

I was quoted around $60/500ml of the Torque RT700 from ft86motorsports.com. I found SRF locally for $90/litre so I'm planning to try running that next year. If it doesn't work out, I'll get the Torque fluid next time.

I've been doing some reading and I'm leaning towards running Winmax W5 all around because a lot of people suggest they hold up well, have decent cold bite and don't sound like a bus when stopping on the street.

I was considering running staggered compounds with W4 front and W5 rear to maintain close to OEM brake bias with my BBK but there are a lot of reasons not do this. First, I'm not sure I really want to be putting the less capable pad on the front of my car. Next, I hear the W4s are actually really noisy on the street compared to the W5. Finally I'm not sure that the bias correction will really be useful to me when running more aggressive tires (RS3) and my suspension setup (6k front, 4k rear) I expect there to be additional load in the front under braking so increasing front brake torque might actually be beneficial.

I am still interested in other opinions though but this is the direction I'm leaning.

[Tor]

Running XP10 all round and using pedal dance the rears occasionally goes into ABS before the front. I don't know with your BBK, but stock I wouldn't want to run a stronger pad in the rear.

[Cartman]

Personally I track and daily my car and have been running ATE Typ200 brake fluid without any issues, I only bled the brakes once and again when I rebuilt the OEM brakes a year and half later.

I'm currently running it with the RR-Racing kit and have had no issues in the 3 events I've done.

If you want a decent track/street pad get Ferodo DS2500 front and rear. If you want a true track pad, get Raybestos ST43... I ran them on the OEM calipers and they where insane... though a bit hard to modulate at first do to the increased bite they provide.

I plan on running them again at some point with the RR racing kit.

[wparsons]

Type200 and Super Blue are both pretty low boiling points compared to RBF660, RT700 and SRF, but aren't bad fluids at all. I started off with Super Blue but moved to SRF a couple summers ago.