Rotary buffer technique, polish, and pad for black 86

[Nah]

Just like the title says, I'm trying to create a flawless finish on Raven paint with a 2 speed craftsmen rotary buffer I received for free.

What pads do you suggest?

What polish/compounds?

And what technique would you use?

I've tried M105 but it just puts swirls in my paint and I'm using a DICO pad from ACE. I only worked it in for about 30 seconds to a minute at most.

Any advice is appreciated thank you!

[radroach]

@Nah Don't use a rotary buffer, way too aggressive. What you need is a dual-action buffer.

Get a Meguiar's G110v2 kit with a 5" backing plate, and get 12 pack of meguiar's microfiber cutting disks, and meguiar's microfiber correction compound. And get a 12-pack of microfibers from the rag company, don't fuck around with dirty towels.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIoQHUEMGWQ"]How to Use the Meguiar's G110v2 Dual Action Polisher - YouTube[/ame]

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by radroach

@Nah Don't use a rotary buffer, way too aggressive. What you need is a dual-action buffer.

Get a Meguiar's G110v2 kit with a 5" backing plate, and get 12 pack of meguiar's microfiber cutting disks, and meguiar's microfiber correction compound. And get a 12-pack of microfibers from the rag company, don't fuck around with dirty towels.

By golly, I just may have to get one of those things ......I'm running low on elbow grease ......



humfrz

[Nah]

Originally Posted by radroach

@Nah Don't use a rotary buffer, way too aggressive. What you need is a dual-action buffer.

Get a Meguiar's G110v2 kit with a 5" backing plate, and get 12 pack of meguiar's microfiber cutting disks, and meguiar's microfiber correction compound. And get a 12-pack of microfibers from the rag company, don't fuck around with dirty towels.

Let's say after I applied the compound with the cutting disk what would be the next step after? I'm gonna assume a polishing or buffing pad or would the microfiber cutting disk do the same job to apply a wax or even a polish? Also what polish and wax would you recommend? Thanks for the help. I'm trying to really master the craft on a budget... College student

[radroach]

Originally Posted by Nah

the next step after?

The next step would be doing a light wash (to clean off the remaining polishing residue) and then waxing.

My steps for a full detail are: Wash, clay, wash, compound, wash, wax.

[Nah]

What's a good brush to get in the crevices ?

Originally Posted by radroach

The next step would be doing a light wash (to clean off the remaining polishing residue) and then waxing.

My steps for a full detail are: Wash, clay, wash, compound, wash, wax.

[radroach]

@Nah For body panels? What crevices lol. I wouldn't use a brush. Use two bucket method, an assortment of wash mitts, and grit guard.

I only use brushes for cleaning wheels, wheel wells, and the engine bay. I use cheap paintbrushes on the engine bay, and dedicated wheel brushes on the wheels.

[Nah]

Lol I only use mitts too with two bucket method... I just heard that there's this detail brush that will get in crevices like front grill and between body panels and shit... I just really want a flawless finish again lol

Originally Posted by radroach

@Nah For body panels? What crevices lol. I wouldn't use a brush. Use two bucket method, an assortment of wash mitts, and grit guard.

I only use brushes for cleaning wheels, wheel wells, and the engine bay. I use cheap paintbrushes on the engine bay, and dedicated wheel brushes on the wheels.

[NLS8520]

Let me level with you here, what your thinking of continuing to do is a risky proposition, and here's why. A rotary is an "experts" tool, they require many hours of experience to master that kind of very powerful tool. They build tremendous heat and can easily burn through paint. I would recommend rotary polishing a few beaters before bring a rotary near your paint. I get that you got it for free and polishing is an exciting thing, and it is!, but don't make it a nightmare. You risk installing buffer trails as well. Go get a Porter Cable 7424XP or even a Harbor Freight DA( for 60 bucks) a good 5" lake country backing plate and some polishing pads, and a decent polish your car will come out amazing, and it's risk free provided you clean your car perfectly prior to polishing. Totally different techniques in rotary and DA polishing as well. Rotary is a forced rotation tool like a drill, if you apply to much pressure to a rotary it keeps working, you can eat right through a high point in a heartbeat. Where with a DA if you apply to much pressure there is a clutch in the tool that prevents it from doing damage. Anyway feel free to ask any questions.

[Nah]

Originally Posted by NLS8520

Let me level with you here, what your thinking of continuing to do is a risky proposition, and here's why. A rotary is an "experts" tool, they require many hours of experience to master that kind of very powerful tool. They build tremendous heat and can easily burn through paint. I would recommend rotary polishing a few beaters before bring a rotary near your paint. I get that you got it for free and polishing is an exciting thing, and it is!, but don't make it a nightmare. You risk installing buffer trails as well. Go get a Porter Cable 7424XP or even a Harbor Freight DA( for 60 bucks) a good 5" lake country backing plate and some polishing pads, and a decent polish your car will come out amazing, and it's risk free provided you clean your car perfectly prior to polishing. Totally different techniques in rotary and DA polishing as well. Rotary is a forced rotation tool like a drill, if you apply to much pressure to a rotary it keeps working, you can eat right through a high point in a heartbeat. Where with a DA if you apply to much pressure there is a clutch in the tool that prevents it from doing damage. Anyway feel free to ask any questions.

Ive got a practice good I'm gonna practice a bit more on it. But yes I know it's dangerous but I understand that you must always keep the buffer moving. And go from a harder pressure to a light pressure than wipe. I'm a risky guy... Lol. But I'd like to get a nice buffer and come out with flawless paint easily because I'm starting my detail business.

Most everything I apply by hand and use new foam pads and quality products and it comes out great but I'm seeking near perfection... You know atleast like 90%. I appreciate the advice I will update you on why I go with and let you know what worked from a novice detailers perspective. Thank you for all the feedback

[radroach]

@Nah I don't recommend you use a 2-speed craftsman buffer. They are not a precision tool for polishing, and I don't think there's a big market for 10" pads for 2 speed buffers. If you wanted a flawless finish, you would use a porter cable polisher and adapter kits like NLS8520 recommended.

[Nah]

Yeah I agree not a good tool for paint but it is perfect for headlight restoration . That being said, what wash, polish, and wax, would you suggest for the best results while being budget friendly. I like knowi what experienced guys use

Originally Posted by radroach

@Nah I don't recommend you use a 2-speed craftsman buffer. They are not a precision tool for polishing, and I don't think there's a big market for 10" pads for 2 speed buffers. If you wanted a flawless finish, you would use a porter cable polisher and adapter kits like NLS8520 recommended.

[radroach]

Not sure if serious Nah, it would suck for headlight restoration.

[Nah]

Lol bro just used some rubbing compound and buffed out some headlights to new on a 05 highlander

Originally Posted by radroach

Not sure if serious Nah, it would suck for headlight restoration.