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#29 | |
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#30 |
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The Stig's German cousin
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I know a local who could only get -0.8 to -0.9 with the factory crash bolt installed. So it's possible that's all your car's geometry will support. That said I'd expect the SPC bolt to provide a tad more than that, and he has a really rare and extreme case - I don't know anyone else who can't get more than -1.0 on stock hardware with a crash bolt.
Really recommend you just do it yourself so you know it's done right, then get a toe alignment afterwards. Loosen both bolts, carefully place a jack under the brake rotor and jack it up some to shove the strut inwards, then torque the nuts to spec before loosening the jack. For a tiny bit extra loosen the three nuts on the top hat when you do this. |
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#31 |
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#32 |
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#33 |
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Looks like you need to rotate the tab 180. That should move the shaft of the bolt (and the bottom of the wheel) out. From there you should be able to rotate the bolt and the lobe will fine tune your adjustment. Torque back to spec when done.
Disclaimer: Due to stock class autocross rules I have never installed an eccentric bolt for camber purposes. |
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#34 | |
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#35 |
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The tab seemed right. But you have to rotate the bolt too, where the arrow points towards the wheel. The arrow indicates the highest point of the slop
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#36 |
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Correct me if I'm wrong but the washer is simply that. A washer with a tab.
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#37 |
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There is another nub that is bent inwards toward the mounting hole that you don't see in the picture while it's installed. So it is not just a washer with a tab that does nothing.
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