Engine failure - Spun rod bearing TWICE

[justatroll]

I have a hard time understanding how a complete rebuild at the dealer (with repeat failure being a real possibility) could ever be cheaper than a new long block from the factory.

But what do I know, I work in an industry where labor is the highest cost.

[tofurun]

Originally Posted by dinoniel

Hey guys wanted to update here as promised.

BRZ is still at the dealer. It was towed back to the original dealer who did the first repair. Apparently the higher up managers felt that was the best thing to do.

I got a list of what parts were ordered this time compared to the first time the engine blew. I'll list the parts below:

1st Repair:
-Short Block
-Gasket&seal set
-Oil change

2nd repair (parts that were ordered so far)
-camshaft
-pulley crankshaft
-gasket cylinder head
-spark plug
-spring valve/seal/rocker valve
-Oil pan
-cover assembly/chain
-water pump assembly
-thermo & gasket assembly
-Short Block

Obviously more extensive the second time around, but that's expected because the damage was a lot worse. Parts haven't come in to the dealer yet so still no word on when I will get my car back.

I'll put a disclaimer here that I'm not a mechanic and am at most a weekend DIY'er so I don't know much about engine terminology. Nonetheless feel free to share your thoughts!

Im in for forged internals and lower compression build

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by justatroll

I have a hard time understanding how a complete rebuild at the dealer (with repeat failure being a real possibility) could ever be cheaper than a new long block from the factory.

But what do I know, I work in an industry where labor is the highest cost.

Originally Posted by dinoniel

Hey guys wanted to update here as promised.

BRZ is still at the dealer. It was towed back to the original dealer who did the first repair. Apparently the higher up managers felt that was the best thing to do.

I got a list of what parts were ordered this time compared to the first time the engine blew. I'll list the parts below:

1st Repair:
-Short Block
-Gasket&seal set
-Oil change

2nd repair (parts that were ordered so far)
-camshaft
-pulley crankshaft
-gasket cylinder head
-spark plug
-spring valve/seal/rocker valve
-Oil pan
-cover assembly/chain
-water pump assembly
-thermo & gasket assembly
-Short Block

Obviously more extensive the second time around, but that's expected because the damage was a lot worse. Parts haven't come in to the dealer yet so still no word on when I will get my car back.

I'll put a disclaimer here that I'm not a mechanic and am at most a weekend DIY'er so I don't know much about engine terminology. Nonetheless feel free to share your thoughts!

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Well then...


This is the problem. You can't pay people enough to take their time or give a shit. Long block is making much more sense now.

Honestly he should've gotten a new long block.....

[Lonewolf]

Originally Posted by dinoniel

Hey guys wanted to update here as promised.

BRZ is still at the dealer. It was towed back to the original dealer who did the first repair. Apparently the higher up managers felt that was the best thing to do.

I got a list of what parts were ordered this time compared to the first time the engine blew. I'll list the parts below:

1st Repair:
-Short Block
-Gasket&seal set
-Oil change

2nd repair (parts that were ordered so far)
-camshaft
-pulley crankshaft
-gasket cylinder head
-spark plug
-spring valve/seal/rocker valve
-Oil pan
-cover assembly/chain
-water pump assembly
-thermo & gasket assembly
-Short Block

Obviously more extensive the second time around, but that's expected because the damage was a lot worse. Parts haven't come in to the dealer yet so still no word on when I will get my car back.

I'll put a disclaimer here that I'm not a mechanic and am at most a weekend DIY'er so I don't know much about engine terminology. Nonetheless feel free to share your thoughts!

So who is going to be making car payments through this time? You may want to contact SoA about the money you'll be out while your car is out of commission for however long it takes to get the car back to you in working order...

[dinoniel]

Originally Posted by justatroll

I have a hard time understanding how a complete rebuild at the dealer (with repeat failure being a real possibility) could ever be cheaper than a new long block from the factory.

But what do I know, I work in an industry where labor is the highest cost.

Pretty much exactly what I said. How can this be cheaper than dropping in a ready made engine from factory if you consider labor. But I know even less than you.

Originally Posted by FRSBRZGT86FAN

Honestly he should've gotten a new long block.....

I argued for this. I got nowhere. In the end everyone kept saying "it's not up to the dealer it's up to the area manager and Subaru Rep." I asked for their numbers to speak directly and supposedly no one had it or even knew what days they worked. It was all a big mystery.

Originally Posted by Lonewolf

So who is going to be making car payments through this time? You may want to contact SoA about the money you'll be out while your car is out of commission for however long it takes to get the car back to you in working order...

This is a good idea. Though they may argue that they covered my rental car/loaner vehicle. I suppose its worth a shot.

I'm just pretty exhausted of dealing with it all. It's a gigantic time toilet. And I will always be worried with the reliability of my only car. The worst part...a salesman from the dealer called last week asking if I want a new 2016 BRZ given my issues with the current one. I told him I would really prefer if my 2yr old car was just given back to me in reliable condition rather than entering a brand new deal. That call just furthers the idea that they really don't get it.

Verdict is still out if I will keep this car after it is fixed. It's hard for me to daily drive a car that has failed me twice without me even driving hard during these events or modding the engine.

Anyway appreciate the support as always

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by dinoniel

............
Anyway appreciate the support as always

They sure are doing a lot of "patching" on that old engine.

Back in the day, I would have thought ...... fine, now it should be like new. However, engines were simpler and/or mechanics were more competent. I'll betcha the kid they have rebuild that engine never rebuilt a FA20 engine before.

I would recommend, after it is fixed, trade it into that dealership for a new car.


humfrz

[Cole]

Originally Posted by humfrz

They sure are doing a lot of "patching" on that old engine.

Back in the day, I would have thought ...... fine, now it should be like new. However, engines were simpler and/or mechanics were more competent. I'll betcha the kid they have rebuild that engine never rebuilt a FA20 engine before.

I would recommend, after it is fixed, trade it into that dealership for a new car.


humfrz

Funny you mention that, I've been watching roadkill nearly all day. Amazing how simple old cars are to work on. Drop a new carb onto that small block motor that's been in a scrap yard for 30 years and she gets to purring again.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Cole

Funny you mention that, I've been watching roadkill nearly all day. Amazing how simple old cars are to work on. Drop a new carb onto that small block motor that's been in a scrap yard for 30 years and she gets to purring again.

Yep, just a few steps and most of them would spring to life:

* take the carburetor apart and clean it with Gunk and rebuild with a new kit.

* pull the spark plugs, clean them and squirt some kerosene into the cylinders

* install a used battery

* pop the top off the distributor and clean the contacts with a finger nail file

* disconnect the fuel filter, clean and blow out the lines

* rap on the starter a few times

* mount a couple of used tires/patch a couple of tubes

* add water to the radiator (and oatmeal if it leaks); tape up any leaking hoses

* pour in 5 gallons of new gas

* fire that puppy up ...... you got yourself a running machine





humfrz

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by dinoniel

I argued for this. I got nowhere. In the end everyone kept saying "it's not up to the dealer it's up to the area manager and Subaru Rep." I asked for their numbers to speak directly and supposedly no one had it or even knew what days they worked. It was all a big mystery.

There loss, literally, if the motor spins another bearing it's all there fault for not getting a brand new block and it will cost them more time and money

[dinoniel]

UPDATE:

Well I left the car at the dealer to have all the work done that I had previously posted. The car was there for over 6 weeks, I told them to take as long as they needed to make it right. Picked up the car on 09/01/16.

Since leaving the dealership I've kept it under 3k rpm. More like 2.5k rpm im so nervous about driving this thing. It's also MUCH louder exhaust such that 3 people over the phone while I was driving asked me if I got a new exhaust or a UEL header. It's not pleasant.

Yesterday (6 days after picking up) the CEL and TCS light turned on. Code P0017. I had the code reset, hoping maybe it was some fluke idle code. This morning same warning light and same code P0017.

Called the dealer twice today no answer. They probably screen my number at this point but I'm so done with this. At what point will subaru admit this car is a lemon? They've poured so much money into fixing the damn thing and it's still not fixed.

Anyway anyone have experience with this code? I read a bit on the forums abt it but it was mostly about the random idling issues which didn't cause repeated warning lights like my case.

[Bach415]

Originally Posted by dinoniel

UPDATE:

Well I left the car at the dealer to have all the work done that I had previously posted. The car was there for over 6 weeks, I told them to take as long as they needed to make it right. Picked up the car on 09/01/16.

Since leaving the dealership I've kept it under 3k rpm. More like 2.5k rpm im so nervous about driving this thing. It's also MUCH louder exhaust such that 3 people over the phone while I was driving asked me if I got a new exhaust or a UEL header. It's not pleasant.

Yesterday (6 days after picking up) the CEL and TCS light turned on. Code P0017. I had the code reset, hoping maybe it was some fluke idle code. This morning same warning light and same code P0017.

Called the dealer twice today no answer. They probably screen my number at this point but I'm so done with this. At what point will subaru admit this car is a lemon? They've poured so much money into fixing the damn thing and it's still not fixed.

Anyway anyone have experience with this code? I read a bit on the forums abt it but it was mostly about the random idling issues which didn't cause repeated warning lights like my case.

I would bring it to a different dealership to have the work done. P0017 is a cam issue. (http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67821). Might have cause the flat piece to pop off when they were putting the engine back together.

[gravitylover]

dinoniel - Here in NY you should be able to claim lemon at this point and get out of the car.

[dinoniel]

Originally Posted by gravitylover

dinoniel - Here in NY you should be able to claim lemon at this point and get out of the car.

I was thinking of contacting a lemon law lawyer. I need to do some more research would hate to spend money on a lawyer if there's no chance I'd win some settlement at least to cover the cost of the car and the cost of the lost value secondary to these issues.

The car was bought in Colorado and I'm currently residing in FL so I also need to check which state applies.

Appreciate the comments as always, I will update here when something progresses.

[zc06_kisstherain]

I would get out of car after you settle with dealer or sell whatever you decided to do.