Clunking Noise after Coilover install?

[Bowen]

So I installed my ST Suspension Coilovers a little over a month ago. And ever since the install, there is a slightly obnoxious clunking noise coming from the rear right suspension setup during any bumps in the road.

While I had my alignment done, I had one of the tech's checkout my install and the noise. He said that I had installed the coils correctly, and the clunking could actually be from the sway bar link (since I removed it during install). However they couldn't replicate the noise with it on their lifts, so I'm kinda at a dead end here.

Any suggestions/ideas on what could be the cause?

[Yanbags]

You really just need to check each and every suspension bolt one by one until it's resolved. Make sure you use proper torque specs when possible!

1. Easy way to tell if the clunk is coming from the endlinks is to simply disconnect them entirely. Does it still make the noise? Then your endlinks likely weren't tightened properly.
2. Whether or not #1 was the case, make sure you tighten the endlink bolt/nut while the suspension is under normal load.

[Bowen]

Originally Posted by Yanbags

You really just need to check each and every suspension bolt one by one until it's resolved. Make sure you use proper torque specs when possible!

1. Easy way to tell if the clunk is coming from the endlinks is to simply disconnect them entirely. Does it still make the noise? Then your endlinks likely weren't tightened properly.
2. Whether or not #1 was the case, make sure you tighten the endlink bolt/nut while the suspension is under normal load.

Good suggestions,

However torqued every bolt to spec! Also I used an air impact wrench to get that top hat bolt on so I have no doubt that sucker is tighten more than enough.

I have yet to remove the sway bar endlink, but I know for sure that it's tighten down.

[jasonojordan]

Torqued or not didnt happen before you did the work so 1st stop is to check all the bolts. If it persists then you need to look into suspension geometry. A year after installing my ISC coil-overs and torquing everything down I had a top hat nut come loose and it would clunk.

[slyphen]

in addition to endlink, also check your pre-load.

[Bowen]

Originally Posted by slyphen

in addition to endlink, also check your pre-load.

ST Coils don't come with pre-load adjustment, only height. Thanks though!

[jasonojordan]

Also check the top hat to coil-over nuts with it on the ground. If they checked it out on the lift they may not of noticed it being loose.

[Yanbags]

Originally Posted by Bowen

Good suggestions,

However torqued every bolt to spec! Also I used an air impact wrench to get that top hat bolt on so I have no doubt that sucker is tighten more than enough.

I have yet to remove the sway bar endlink, but I know for sure that it's tighten down.

Excellent. I've literally just installed a set of RCE T2's this past weekend and I'm fighting a clunking noise from my front left corner. Taking some time again this coming weekend to try and figure it out. My suggestions are what I'm going to try myself.

From what I read - tightening any shock assembly nut with an impact is certainly not good so it could be related to that, worst case scenario. Shock assembly nuts usually have fairly low tq values. When you did that, did you notice if the the piston shaft was rotating? You would have wanted that to not move.

[Bowen]

Originally Posted by Yanbags

Excellent. I've literally just installed a set of RCE T2's this past weekend and I'm fighting a clunking noise from my front left corner. Taking some time again this coming weekend to try and figure it out. My suggestions are what I'm going to try myself.

From what I read - tightening any shock assembly nut with an impact is certainly not good so it could be related to that, worst case scenario. Shock assembly nuts usually have fairly low tq values. When you did that, did you notice if the the piston shaft was rotating? You would have wanted that to not move.

I had my impact wrench set to the lowest setting to just get the bolt set in place (maybe 75lbs max), and then I'd go at it with my 1/2 torque wrench. I did not notice the piston shaft rotating. That surely wouldn't be very good!

Originally Posted by jasonojordan

Also check the top hat to coil-over nuts with it on the ground. If they checked it out on the lift they may not of noticed it being loose.

Yea those suckers were tightened and torqued no problem. I feel like it could be the control arm since I did have to remove it to set the coilover in place.

[jimmillion]

I happened to install my ST coilovers this past weekend too.

if you're sure your top nut is tightened then maybe you're set to low? Did you install them with the helper spring? some people dropped beyond 2" and left the helper spring off heard clunking because the spring would literally float over big bumps.

EDIT: when i get home I'll take a picture of my macgyvered combination of tools i used to tighten the rear top nuts by hand, just incase you want to double check those rear top nuts the right way.

[Bowen]

Originally Posted by jimmillion

I happened to install my ST coilovers this past weekend too.

if you're sure your top nut is tightened then maybe you're set to low? Did you install them with the helper spring? some people dropped beyond 2" and left the helper spring off heard clunking because the spring would literally float over big bumps.

EDIT: when i get home I'll take a picture of my macgyvered combination of tools i used to tighten the rear top nuts by hand, just incase you want to double check those rear top nuts the right way.

I was originally very low (less than a 1 finger gap between my 265/35/18 tires). Now I'm at a One and a half finger gap and the noise still exists. I think I'm on the 15th thread? regardless, yes I kept the helper spring on. I figured if it came with the coils it should stay on

Everyone else is saying the top nut might be the issue, so that's what I'll probably look into.

[Ultramaroon]

Check your end links. If your threads were buggered from previously having been loose, the nut will bind to torque before seating. I found and repaired exactly this problem last week.

[renfield90]

Probably 90% of all suspension clunking noises are due to a loose endlink. This isn't hard to diagnose; disconnect the endlink in question and go drive over some bumps.

Next thing to check are the nuts attaching the top hat to the chassis (for rear shocks it's 2 nuts, for front shocks 3). If you attached these nuts first before bolting the bottom end of the shock to the control arm, you may have left some play in those threads. Loosen both nuts, gently jack up the control arm an inch or two, shake the shock back and forth a couple times to make sure it's not bound up on any threads and then tighten while the jack provides some tension.

Next thing to check is the nut connecting the top hat to the shock shaft which you should NEVER EVER EVER gun on or off. You can ruin the shock like that, so the ONLY exception is for a shock you intend to discard. It's not inconceivable that your clunk could be from the shock itself.

Anyways, remove the top hat nut and then reapply it with the correct torque using the right tools for the job. If you don't have them, wait until you do.

If you've done all that, and still have a clunk, double check the accuracy of your torque wrench. If it's fine, swap the left and right shock units to see if the noise follows. If the noise didn't follow, you may need to double check all your control arms or start upping some of the torque values you're using (careful doing this on the top hat/chassis nuts, stripping these is gonna be a very bad day).

The other possibility at this point could be your brake pads bouncing around and clunking into the rotor. Mine always do this a ton when they get low.

[Bowen]

Guess gunning it on/off wasn't the best idea then!

I honestly didn't think about disconnecting the end link and then driving around, that should immediately tell me if it's the culprit.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'll probably tackle it sometime this weekend.