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| Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous |
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05-10-2016, 02:25 PM
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#15 |
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"Reliable daily driver"
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| The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to mav1178 For This Useful Post: | cdrazic93 (05-10-2016), Keenercarguy (06-07-2016), R2RO (05-10-2016), Sportsguy83 (06-09-2016), Yoda (05-10-2016) |
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05-11-2016, 03:30 AM
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#16 | |
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06-07-2016, 03:25 PM
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#17 |
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Replying to your post because this is the exact subject i need the most help on. when i get mine, i WANT to boost... but i also want to make sure i budget and upgrade all inner and outer components necessary to ensure that my car will not fail me ya know? i dont even know if a thread with "what to upgrade in order to successfully run boost" exists but if you have any direction please send me in the right way?! thanks
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06-07-2016, 04:28 PM
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#18 | |
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06-07-2016, 05:42 PM
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#19 |
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I have never heard of many HKS failures. There is a member here from Russia with a reduced pulley that had a failure. The member also referenced other(s) he knew of in Russia who had V2 failures identical to his. He didnt have warranty, bought grey market bla bla
I find the HKS system as the only affordable Japanese option for SC ( TRD isnt affordable at like $25K) so far lives up to the standards and at under 300 BHP the engine internals, clutch etc arent dying to be changed. Mechanically its identical to Rotrex everyone else uses except at lower RPMs it has an added feature that it partially disengages thus drawing less parasitic power. For Rotrex everyone here seems to blow Jackson.
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5:AD kit, HKS V1+ S/C, ECUtek dyno'd, Ohlins MP20, Magnaflow cb, Revworks UEL, Topspeed overpipe, Pinnacle Ceramic tint, VG shark fin, HID's, yellow DRL's, full LEDs, red floor lights, Homelink mirror, trunk lid liner, Perrin LWCP, Valenti smoked, Flossy Grip Tape Shorty, GT86 plaque, lighted vanity mirror, Michelin PSS, Project mU +800, DOT4 fluid, 720 Form GTF1 17x8&9, stitched leather bits, EZ valve.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to wbradley For This Useful Post: | Keenercarguy (06-07-2016) |
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06-09-2016, 03:31 PM
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#20 |
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Sarcastic SOB
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Just for fun I am going to resurrect this thread with a comment.
If you are considering an HKS supercharger, I think the HKS Japan website, with its broken English, best and most accurately describes how the system performs, at least in the way it is configured in my car: "The drive in the town would be better because this product can solve the torque problem around 4000RPM of stock vehicle" and "It has a great performance at the mid to high RPM because more than 25kgf･m (245N･m) at wide range of RPM from 4700rpm to 6800rpm" So in a nutshell the supercharger eliminates the torque dip- that's good but not quite promising for drag racing. Also the supercharger gets the engine to maximum thrust at 4700 to 6800 RPMs. That's true as well. So the car is a bit peppier around town which doesn't quite justify the cost but is a beast above 4700 RPMs for a fairly narrow 2100 RPM band. My WRX with twin scroll will beat it off the line as will a Jetta diesel or a GTI with high torque down low. However when those cars are running out of steam this car really starts to pull hard. Its great for merging on to a highway and puts minimal extra load on the axle and driveline. With the 6 speed the car isn't nearly as fast 0-100 kph as one might expect, since you are at red line in 2nd at around 86 kph if memory serves me. However 60 to 150 kph it flies. NOT for the muscle car type.
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5:AD kit, HKS V1+ S/C, ECUtek dyno'd, Ohlins MP20, Magnaflow cb, Revworks UEL, Topspeed overpipe, Pinnacle Ceramic tint, VG shark fin, HID's, yellow DRL's, full LEDs, red floor lights, Homelink mirror, trunk lid liner, Perrin LWCP, Valenti smoked, Flossy Grip Tape Shorty, GT86 plaque, lighted vanity mirror, Michelin PSS, Project mU +800, DOT4 fluid, 720 Form GTF1 17x8&9, stitched leather bits, EZ valve.
Last edited by wbradley; 06-09-2016 at 04:46 PM. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to wbradley For This Useful Post: | Tcoat (06-09-2016) |
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06-09-2016, 03:56 PM
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#21 | |
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