CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[DeaconRoc]

Originally Posted by solidONE

If you really don't want to spend that money and want eliminate some of the bumpsteer or correct roll center... you can always raise the car a bit too. lol

edit: @DeaconRoc any word on the specs of the Summit kit?

No reply to my email unfortunately.

[ZionsWrath]

GOing for alignment this week.

I have OEM crash bolt in top hole and camber plate. The bolt gave me -1.5, currently running -2.6, going to try -3

Does it make a difference if I remove the bolt and do all the camber with the plate? Is one way better/worse or doesn't make a difference? I'm taking my wheels off today anyway for brake fluid.

[Marat]

I recently had an alignment done on my car which has camber bolts in the front as well as camber plates on my coilovers. After the alignment, one of my camber plates is at a different position than the other one. So my question is, since now my scrub radius is most likely different side to side, how will it affect driveability and safety?

[Lynxis]

I broke a front swaybar end link at my last track day. I talked to a few people at the track the day I broke it and they suspected it was because it was an OEM end link used on HKS Hipermax 4 GT coils with stickier 200tw tires. The coils were bought used and the guy who sold them to me couldn't get the HKS ones off his car without destroying them so he gave me his OEM end links. Anyways, the end link is busted now so I need to get new ones but I don't know much about them so looking for suggestions on what to get. Is there anything in particular that I should know/look for? The car is daily driven with occasional track and autocross duty. I was looking at the Whiteline adjustable end links but I also see a non adjustable Perrin endlink around too. Just looking for some direction on what I should get.

[Tokay444]

Originally Posted by Marat

I recently had an alignment done on my car which has camber bolts in the front as well as camber plates on my coilovers. After the alignment, one of my camber plates is at a different position than the other one. So my question is, since now my scrub radius is most likely different side to side, how will it affect driveability and safety?

Why would your scrub radius be different from side to side?

Are you running different offset wheels on either side?

[dp1]

Originally Posted by Lynxis

I broke a front swaybar end link at my last track day. I talked to a few people at the track the day I broke it and they suspected it was because it was an OEM end link used on HKS Hipermax 4 GT coils with stickier 200tw tires. The coils were bought used and the guy who sold them to me couldn't get the HKS ones off his car without destroying them so he gave me his OEM end links. Anyways, the end link is busted now so I need to get new ones but I don't know much about them so looking for suggestions on what to get. Is there anything in particular that I should know/look for? The car is daily driven with occasional track and autocross duty. I was looking at the Whiteline adjustable end links but I also see a non adjustable Perrin endlink around too. Just looking for some direction on what I should get.

I use Whiteline front and rear end links. Links on two diagonal corners weakened after 20+ track days so I'm replacing all four with same but new Whiteline parts. Apparently they are wear and tear item with track/ax use.

[Marat]

Originally Posted by Tokay444

Why would your scrub radius be different from side to side?

Are you running different offset wheels on either side?

Wouldn't the scrub radius change if you change the inclanation angle of the strut(i.e. adjust camber plate)?

[Tokay444]

Originally Posted by Marat

Wouldn't the scrub radius change if you change the inclanation angle of the strut(i.e. adjust camber plate)?

The hub still rotates around a fixed point. The lower ball joint, so while that radius may be at a different plane with regards to the ground, it's still the same radius, and you said you have camber bolts and camber plates, and you've just had an alignment, so your camber values should be the same, if you got what you paid for. With the very small amounts of negative camber you're dealing with, it's not enough notice a difference in scrub. Even the mathematical difference in scrub is minute.

[Marat]

Originally Posted by Tokay444

The hub still rotates around a fixed point. The lower ball joint, so while that radius may be at a different plane with regards to the ground, it's still the same radius, and you said you have camber bolts and camber plates, and you've just had an alignment, so your camber values should be the same, if you got what you paid for. With the very small amounts of negative camber you're dealing with, it's not enough notice a difference in scrub. Even the mathematical difference in scrub is minute.

The camber values are essentially the same side to side and thats fine. My other concern was since one of the shocks is now at a different inclanation angle, each corner will have different effective stiffness because of the angle at which load applies from wheel. So, i just want to know even if the angle difference is not that big, how would that affect driveability?

[Tokay444]

Originally Posted by Marat

The camber values are essentially the same side to side and thats fine. My other concern was since one of the shocks is now at a different inclanation angle, each corner will have different effective stiffness because of the angle at which load applies from wheel. So, i just want to know even if the angle difference is not that big, how would that affect driveability?

You will not be able to notice.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

GOing for alignment this week.

I have OEM crash bolt in top hole and camber plate. The bolt gave me -1.5, currently running -2.6, going to try -3

Does it make a difference if I remove the bolt and do all the camber with the plate? Is one way better/worse or doesn't make a difference? I'm taking my wheels off today anyway for brake fluid.

Generally a better idea to max out your camber bolts for a better SAI.

- Andrew

[kev60625]

Hello! So I am set on buying a set of Yellow springs and want to know if it is worth it to get the full starter lite kit on a street car that is only a daily driver? The camber bolts are very cheap, but is it necessary? same with the rear bushings, those are pricer, but I honestly don't plan on going all out, just want a little lowering. I am having an awesome shop do a custom alignment after the spring install, so having them make use of the other parts would not be an issue as well. Really can't decide...I did do an autoX event and plan on doing another (since it was raining), but I am not in it for the time, just go to have fun. I love the oem handling already, would those two parts really make a difference worth it to someone who isn't competitive at all?

[Pat]

Get camber bolts at a minimum. They are the best handling improvement for the dollar you can make. Camber plates make a big difference even over camber bolts, but it doesn't sound like you want to go down that road just yet. I wouldn't worry about bushings given your goals.

[Jidonsu]

I have the Tarmac IIs waiting to be installed. I figure I'm going to have to order some rear LCAs anyways. What do you guys recommend for something that will be STX legal and can stand up to some sporadic track use?