Data Logs! Post them here.

[Jaden]

How normal is it to run lean compared to commanded AFR at lower loads?

at higher loads, commanded AFR and measured are pretty close but at lower loads, they are WAAYYY off...

Jaden

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Jaden

How normal is it to run lean compared to commanded AFR at lower loads?

at higher loads, commanded AFR and measured are pretty close but at lower loads, they are WAAYYY off...

Jaden

are you in open loop or closed loop fueling mode when its running lean ?


have you just jumped on/off the throttle ?

[Jaden]

Originally Posted by steve99

are you in open loop or closed loop fueling mode when its running lean ?


have you just jumped on the throttle ?

I"m in OL. It's commanding 14.7 and I'm getting as high as 20... with a load of like .08..ok yeah I just jumoped off the throttle.duh never mind lol

Jaden

[phrosty]

Originally Posted by Jaden

I"m in OL. It's commanding 14.7 and I'm getting as high as 20... with a load of like .08..ok yeah I just jumoped on the throttle.duh never mind lol

Jaden

AFR @ 20 is fuel cut, happens when you let off throttle. It's normal.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by G-awesome

looks like I'm still dropping iam and flkc with the stage 1 93 uel tune...hmm http://www.datazap.me/u/gawesome/201...data=1-5-10-11

looks like I'm gonna check the hardware for leaks, vibrations, etc.

Hmm there is a UEL stg 1 calibration by Vishnu? That's news to me. lol. Just so you know, and im sure you read thru all the stuff that wayno and steve99 posted in their threads, is that the computer should be given some time to decipher what the knock sensor is picking up and whether if its actual knock or just other engine noise. This doesn't mean you shouldn't check all your hardware anyways. Also this doesn't mean that it's not a bad tank of petrol that is causing it either.

Personally in my logs I'd like to include some part throttle operation under different loads all the way up the rev range along with, obviously, some WOT pulls. I would take several in 3rd gear pulls, and usually end with a 3rd to 4th to 5th gear pull then normal commuting operation just so I have a clear picture of whats going on. Oh and also of some various sudden increase in throttle of different duration (to gauge how much tip-in knock correction im getting, if I'm getting any). Stuff like that. Just to be thorough.

[G-awesome]

Originally Posted by solidONE

Hmm there is a UEL stg 1 calibration by Vishnu? That's news to me. lol. Just so you know, and im sure you read thru all the stuff that wayno and steve99 posted in their threads, is that the computer should be given some time to decipher what the knock sensor is picking up and whether if its actual knock or just other engine noise. This doesn't mean you shouldn't check all your hardware anyways. Also this doesn't mean that it's not a bad tank of petrol that is causing it either.

Personally in my logs I'd like to include some part throttle operation under different loads all the way up the rev range along with, obviously, some WOT pulls. I would take several in 3rd gear pulls, and usually end with a 3rd to 4th to 5th gear pull then normal commuting operation just so I have a clear picture of whats going on. Oh and also of some various sudden increase in throttle of different duration (to gauge how much tip-in knock correction im getting, if I'm getting any). Stuff like that. Just to be thorough.

Oh yes..I've read through all their tuning threads over the past month and heavily researching like I'm in school all over again ever since I got tuning itch! Seems like the more you know, the more confusing it gets at times.

My testing methodology after flashing a new tune is go on a few non-intensive cruises or drives to work so the ecu can learn first and datalog a few to make sure there's no knocking or irregularities under normal driving conditions. IAM, FLKC and knock correction always stayed at 1,0,0 respectively on all tunes I tried. Then when I have time on weekends, then I log some 1st to 3rd gears pulls at a empty office/industrial area. Then to wrap it up, log some spirited driving/thrashing.

TLDR: Based on all the data and tunes I tested, the knocking occurs in the high rpm range with IAM slowly dropping to a worse case of 0.8ish. FLKC dropping as low 2.8ish degrees but 'knock corection' (same as FBKC?) remains at 0 for 99% of the time. Right now I'm tweaking the best tune (OFH with Waynos maps) to see if I can reduce the knock?

[solidONE]

@G-awesome IF you did not see and - KC or FLKC under other operating condition then it's unlikely that an exhaust vibration is causing the corrections. From the logs you posted i assumed you were only logging single 3rd gear pulls. Though it's good to be thorough and check the hardware for rattles and what-nots. Are you still on the same tank of 94 octane gas?

It's interesting that the 3rd log in the initial post had more aggressive ignition advance compare to the Stg 1 log, yet the stg1 log registered much more knock correction. Also, on the 3rd log past 5200rpm you are at 11.37 afr even though the LTFT is 0%and commanded afr is 12.24. This tell me your maf scale is off by a good margin. You should get your maf scale squared away first.

3rd log: http://www.datazap.me/u/gawesome/201...7-249&mark=176

Stg 1: http://www.datazap.me/u/gawesome/201...4-199&mark=142

[G-awesome]

Originally Posted by solidONE

@G-awesome IF you did not see and - KC or FLKC under other operating condition then it's unlikely that an exhaust vibration is causing the corrections. From the logs you posted i assumed you were only logging single 3rd gear pulls. Though it's good to be thorough and check the hardware for rattles and what-nots. Are you still on the same tank of 94 octane gas?

It's interesting that the 3rd log in the initial post had more aggressive ignition advance compare to the Stg 1 log, yet the stg1 log registered much more knock correction. Also, on the 3rd log past 5200rpm you are at 11.37 afr even though the LTFT is 0%and commanded afr is 12.24. This tell me your maf scale is off by a good margin. You should get your maf scale squared away first.

3rd log: http://www.datazap.me/u/gawesome/201...7-249&mark=176

Stg 1: http://www.datazap.me/u/gawesome/201...4-199&mark=142

Thanks for the advice! That's good to know on the exhaust vibration but I'll double check everything to make sure nothing loosened up over time, etc. The logs I posted were only 3rd gear pulls. The stage 1 log was on a new tank of gas so I'll do further testing over the weekend and see if the results are just as poor. Time to start learning how to rescale the maf! Will keep ya posted on the results.

[Rifle]

I'm trying to figure out an issue with my Sprintex 210 that myself, nor my builder, or tuner can seem to figure out.

Let me give you some backstory - had a '15 FR-S with the 210 Intercooled. 69MM pulley. Went and had it tuned, no problem. Took 16 degrees of timing and made 260whpish (93 gas).

Car was totaled by someone, so I saved the blower, bought a new intercooler/pump, and put it back on my '16 BRZ. Had my tuner re-create the same rom that I had before, just for the '16 ECU.

Now, for whatever reason, my car just won't take any timing without knocking. The setup is exactly the same, just a different motor. I understand there's variances in motors, but for me to lose basically 4 degrees of timing, the car won't make past like 200whp on pump gas now, without knocking.

I'm at a loss. I don't know where to try and diagnose this or try and figure it out. We've tried like 10 different tunes, all with less timing and different advances and such. When we take out timing in the tune, the car reacts even further by cutting the IAM.

I'm just curious if you all have any insight on how to go about trouble shooting this issue.

Here's the most recent log he had me create - this is the same tune from the '15, ported to the '16 rom.

http://datazap.me/u/rifle/1?log=0&da...zoom=7364-8017

And here's one from where we took timing out..

http://datazap.me/u/rifle/wtf?log=0&...zoom=3353-3707

[Wayno]

If you don't think there's anything wrong with the car or the tune, then it's a problem with the platform and/or MY16 rom logic then your tuner should be getting support from ecutek as that's what your tuner pays for.

Originally Posted by Rifle

I'm trying to figure out an issue with my Sprintex 210 that myself, nor my builder, or tuner can seem to figure out.

Let me give you some backstory - had a '15 FR-S with the 210 Intercooled. 69MM pulley. Went and had it tuned, no problem. Took 16 degrees of timing and made 260whpish (93 gas).

Car was totaled by someone, so I saved the blower, bought a new intercooler/pump, and put it back on my '16 BRZ. Had my tuner re-create the same rom that I had before, just for the '16 ECU.

Now, for whatever reason, my car just won't take any timing without knocking. The setup is exactly the same, just a different motor. I understand there's variances in motors, but for me to lose basically 4 degrees of timing, the car won't make past like 200whp on pump gas now, without knocking.

I'm at a loss. I don't know where to try and diagnose this or try and figure it out. We've tried like 10 different tunes, all with less timing and different advances and such. When we take out timing in the tune, the car reacts even further by cutting the IAM.

I'm just curious if you all have any insight on how to go about trouble shooting this issue.

Here's the most recent log he had me create - this is the same tune from the '15, ported to the '16 rom.

http://datazap.me/u/rifle/1?log=0&da...zoom=7364-8017

And here's one from where we took timing out..

http://datazap.me/u/rifle/wtf?log=0&...zoom=3353-3707

[Rifle]

Originally Posted by Wayno

If you don't think there's anything wrong with the car or the tune, then it's a problem with the platform and/or MY16 rom logic then your tuner should be getting support from ecutek as that's what your tuner pays for.

In theory, there should be nothing wrong with the tune itself, as it was run on another car - WITH THE SAME SETUP. But, I know there can be variances within the motors and tolerances. The only thing that's changed has been the motor. Think I should try to change the pulley and push less boost?

But for it to be pulling 3 degrees of timing under WOT... I'm just confused. No idea.

[Kodename47]

@Rifle has this been dyno tuned? At a glance I noticed that the O2 sensor hasn't been scaled so the reading flatlines above 12. Not an issue if you know what's going on though.

There's a variance in fuel used between a few of those runs in the 1st log, the 1st few pulls register less voltage on the MAF and are therefore using less fuel. The rest of the pulls are injecting similar amounts but it would be interesting if these are changing the AFR much.

Any idea of the charge temps? I see you're using the stock IAT so it's hard to tell what's happening in the manifold.

[Rifle]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

@Rifle has this been dyno tuned? At a glance I noticed that the O2 sensor hasn't been scaled so the reading flatlines above 12. Not an issue if you know what's going on though.

There's a variance in fuel used between a few of those runs in the 1st log, the 1st few pulls register less voltage on the MAF and are therefore using less fuel. The rest of the pulls are injecting similar amounts but it would be interesting if these are changing the AFR much.

Any idea of the charge temps? I see you're using the stock IAT so it's hard to tell what's happening in the manifold.

The first log I gave you, out of the two, was a dyno tune from my '15 that was ported to the '16. Ran perfectly on one car, same setup, runs like shit on the next.

2nd log is essentially the same tune as the first, with timing taken out of the table. I don't have a wideband, I probably should, but according to my tuner when we had this car on a dyno, the fueling was right, even when we pulled timing.

No idea of the charge temps hitting the actual block. I know the sensor reads like 22C, but it also compressed by the supercharger and run through an intercooler before hitting the block. My only conclusions are that the 69mm pulley for the 210 (which is 12psi) is really made to run e85. The old car could handle it, but this one can't. I think I'll try stepping down 1.5psi to the 72.5mm pulley, which is what they recommend for 93 anyway.

[Cole]

http://datazap.me/u/colekmiecik/log5?log=0&data=1

Time for part out?