Ultimate guide for Airlift Front wheel fitment vs Double Bellow Bag/CUP system

[SleepingPanda]

Originally Posted by lukey86

Yeah, I have mine maxed out

Awesome. That gives me hope. I have my airlift struts and airlift 3p ready to go in. Along with my wheels. Which are 18x9 +25 in front. I was getting nervous about rubbing the bag. But I'll smash the shit out of the shock tower. No problem. Thanks again.

[_frs]

Originally Posted by dito

Youre wheel size is perfect specs. Same specs as mine. But your tires are pretty fat. Im running 215/35. A good stretch but no rubs at all and airs out all the way

Cool I'll look into 215's instead then for my next setup, thanks man!

[frs_94]

so according to some of your setups if i got with 18x9.5 +25 i should be fine right?
also anybody know if the wheels will stick out past the fender? or will i tuck?
if that wont work i also have 10mm spacers with extended studs
thanks

[tooslow4umayne]

I want to revive this threat because i feel like its super important. Im so confused on this fitment and I'm trying to get my car bagged but I'm hesitating because I'm not sure now hat will rub or won't rub. So my initial set up i want to do is

18x8.5 Front ET ???
18x9.5 Rear ET ?? (35??)

I also want to run somewhere in the ball park of 245-255 Rear tire and
225-235 Front tire.

Will this set up work on air? With out much camber ? Do i have to run any extra? any recommendations ?

[NyC Zn6]

Originally Posted by frs_94

so according to some of your setups if i got with 18x9.5 +25 i should be fine right?
also anybody know if the wheels will stick out past the fender? or will i tuck?
if that wont work i also have 10mm spacers with extended studs
thanks

those specs on air will tuck

[frs_94]

Originally Posted by NyC Zn6

those specs on air will tuck

Yea got that all figured out all ready thanks

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[MrPogi86]

Originally Posted by lukey86

Merry Christmas all!

I figured I'd throw this up here because everyone seems to be asking wether specific wheels will fit or not when it really isn't that hard to figure this out on your own with a little basic math, wheel knowledge and of course a specific reference which in this case is a measurement from the hub face to the air bellows (all of the measurements I'm using are with the bags at 30psi as this represents the bellows at their narrowest point. Also remember that due to the shape of the bellows different diameter wheels, 18" 19" etc. may have different clearances so all measurements will be based on the more common 18" wheel)

so to get started first off you need know how to know how to reverse engineer the measurements from a specific wheel/offset combination. To do so is easier than you might think. To start off, you will need the true width of the wheel in question, which is not actually the width as you know it. Advertised widths and true widths are not the same. The advertised width is measured from inside lip to inside lip and the true with is of course from outside to outside. Most of the time, actually about 99.9 percent of the time with most common wheels this outside measurement is approximately 1 inch wider than advertised width. So using my wheels as an example, on the box it says they're 9.75 inches wide. But based on our knowledge of true width we know that they're actually 10.75 inches wide. Or if you have an 8 inch wheel then you know that the true width is 9 inches etc.

So with that out of the way we now need to figure out our offset measurements but in order to do so we need to convert our inches to mm as it is in mm that all offset measurements are made. So our example is 10.75 inches. I just have to Google 10.75 inches to mm and I get a result straight away: 273.05mm, we can drop the .05 as its too small a number to make much of a difference. next, we divide my 2. This gives us 135.5mm.

So now a little on offset. It's rediculously simple. Offset is simply the exact location of the hub-face portion of the wheel relative to the centre of the rim. So the measurements you see are how many millimeters the hub-face is from the exact centre of the wheel. The - and + signs simply tell us wether that measurement is towards the inside or outside of the wheel. So +20, for example means that the hub-face is 20mm from the center of the wheel and the fact that it's positive means that this measurement is taken from the center OUT rather than in.



So now that we know what offset is, all we have to do is apply the theory to our example wheel and we can successfully reverse engineer it's measurements. We've already measured and converted our wheel and halved the conversion, so all thats left to do is apply the offset to work out our measurement from the hub-face to the furthest inside point on the wheel. Because our wheel is +20 we simply add 20mm to our measuement. So 135.5 + 20 + 155.5. Success! We now know that the actual distance from the hub to the furthest extremities of the rim is 155.5mm. I also know that from the outside of this particular wheel to the air bellows (at 30psi) is 15mm. So not only have we reverse engineered the measurements of my wheels but we have also found our all important reference! Based on these measurements we now know that on any car the distance from the face of the hub back to the air bellows (for an 18" wheel and once again at 30psi) is 170.5mm (155.5mm + 15mm)

So based on that figure (170.5mm) you can now apply those basic principals to any wheel size/offset combo and determine whether they would fit!

So another example for clarification:

Lets use th above mentioned 18X9.5 +45...

First, add an inch:

9.5" + 1 " = 10.5"

Next, convert to mm:

10.5 inches to mm = 266.7 (round off to 267)

Now divide by 2:

267 / 2 = 133.5

Now add the offset (if the offset were negative we would subtract)

133.5 + 45 = 178.5

Lastly compare to our reference:

Our measurement of 178.5 is larger than our reference of 170.5. So it seems that unfortunately this wheel is too large by approximately 8mm (sorry lol)

(just remember that all of these measurements are focused purely on the wheel without tires. Meaty tires can affect your measurements so make sure to include any tyre overhang ect to your measurements)

And thats it! apply the same theory as above to any wheel to get an approximate idea of whether they will fit or not. Happy Holidays!

Running a 18x9.5 +40 with 245/35 and 6mm spacer, ended up turning a corner and rubbed a hole open. According to this theory I should've cleared right? Still awaiting my new bags to assess.

[thien]

Originally Posted by MrPogi86

Running a 18x9.5 +40 with 245/35 and 6mm spacer, ended up turning a corner and rubbed a hole open. According to this theory I should've cleared right? Still awaiting my new bags to assess.

I was running 18x9.5 +35 and I still needed at least a 10 to 15mm. So for you I'd put a 20mm spacer to be safe.

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[MrPogi86]

Originally Posted by thien

I was running 18x9.5 +35 and I still needed at least a 10 to 15mm. So for you I'd put a 20mm spacer to be safe.

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did you end up using a 10mm or a 15mm spacer? Im debating getting a 15mm. 18x9.5 +40 and a 6mm spacer right now my wheels are pokin pretty hard aired out. 20mm im thinking about just going widebody lol.

[Kaytuu]

Anyone know if 235/40 will clear the bag on 18x9.5+34? I have a 5mm spacer also.

Running 215/35 right now but the stretch is ruining the ride. Wanting to go wide as possible without rubbing the bag.

[lukey86]

Originally Posted by Kaytuu

Anyone know if 235/40 will clear the bag on 18x9.5+34? I have a 5mm spacer also.

Running 215/35 right now but the stretch is ruining the ride. Wanting to go wide as possible without rubbing the bag.

I currently run 215/35 on 9.5 +21, at 30 psi it clears by 5 mm but with the shape of the bag means that a squarer fitting tyre will rub, one thing I did though was install camber bolts to add positive camber which moves the top of the wheel further away from the bag, then just offset that with negative camber at the camber plates.


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[Kaytuu]

Originally Posted by lukey86

I currently run 215/35 on 9.5 +21, at 30 psi it clears by 5 mm but with the shape of the bag means that a squarer fitting tyre will rub, one thing I did though was install camber bolts to add positive camber which moves the top of the wheel further away from the bag, then just offset that with negative camber at the camber plates.


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Okay thanks so looks like I won't be able to go any wider.
I'm running 215/35 on a 9.5+29. I'm able to drive fully aired out without rubbing. The rides just pretty rough compared to when I'm on stock wheels.

[Michael]

Based on my calculations, I should not run into any issues with the following specs shown below. The fronts will have a 20mm spacer so an effective offset of +25 and the rear will have a 10mm spacer.

With the spacers up front, I should have roughly 10mm clearance from the bags. It will also give me 2mm more clearance from the fender to the tires which will help when I need to decrease the negative camber. That will also provide a 2mm more clearance from the bag if I decrease my negative camber as well. I am also running camber bolts up front but if I need to, I will either switch them back out to the stock bolts or turn them for positive camber to counter the camber plates but I shouldn't run into that issue at all.

As for the rears, the 10mm spacer will set the new wheels out to where my current wheels are at which is perfect (running 18x9.5 +35 right now). I may run 15mm spacers so that I get that lip-to-fender touch when aired out. Not sure yet on that.

Is there anything else that I should be concerned with or any issues that you all foresee?

18x8.5 +45 on 215/40/18 (front)
18x.95 +45 on 245/35/18 (rear)

[dito]

@Michael sounds like you should be fine up front. i ran 18x9.5 +20 up front with -4 camber and 215/35 tires, aired out lip to fender on my old wheel setup.