Head Removal

[nickw14]

So I have searched around a bit an was unable to find a good (or any) head removal tutorial. I decided I'd throw one together since I need to pull mine anyway. I wrote this tutorial after I already pulled one of the banks (driver side). You will obviously need to have your engine removed for this (don't worry, its VERY easy to do) and some floor dry is always a good idea.

Anyone who is boosted on a stock engine should bookmark this. You are going to need it.

Tools Needed:

• 10, 12, and 14mm sockets
• 14mm 12 point socket (for head studs)
• Engine stand
• Pry bars (flat head screwdrivers might work, though I broke one. Pry bars are an amazing investment)
• Impact driver is nice to have

Step 1: Timing Chain Cover

There are a ton of bolts on the timing chain cover. I have circled the ones I remember taking off, but basically you're removing every single one from the perimeter of the cover and a couple from the center of the cover.



There are a few really good points to get wedges in to pry the cover off. Remember, both the block and the cover are aluminum. Aluminum bends very easily, so if you're prying with your full weight don't be surprised if you chip some pieces off of the cover.

I would advise you to not wedge between the cover and the block once it starts to come off. It is caked in RTV so it will take some force, but like anything else once it's free you can just pull it off. Took us maybe 10 minutes to get it off, 3/4 of that time was just finding all the damn bolts. Do not remove the sensors from the cover, just disconnect them.

I don't have any pictures of inside the cover unfortunately. Like I said, I already pulled one bank before I decided to write this post. You don't have to remove the cam gears or the sensors. You will need to pull off the tensioners and the guides for the chain then remove the chain itself. Here's why:


The cover extends all the way to the end of the head. If you're familiar with the horizontal engine configuration this is a no brainer. If you are not familiar, refer to the above image.



Step 2: Valve Cover

The heads come off in 3 pieces and the valve cover is the first of the 3 to be removed. If you just want to observe the valves/cams, this is how to do it.

First, remove the coil packs. Don't touch the spark plugs unless you really want to, it's just extra work.


Pull straight up on the coils and they'll pop out. Little force is needed but don't be afraid to tug, they're just coils. Disconnect them and set aside.



These are all 10mm/12mm bolts. The arrows are pointing to a couple sneaky fuckers that will cause you problems when removing the cams. You can take those bolts out now or do them in the next step.



You'll be met with this beautiful sight.


Step 3: Camshafts and Gears

This is important. The camshafts must come out to get to the head studs, but they also MUST GO BACK ON BEFORE PULLING THE HEAD!!! The last thing you want (and I truly mean this) is to dump your rockers all over the ground. So please be sure to follow step 5! Anyway, let's get on with step 3.



These are all 12mm/14mm bolts IIRC. No need to remove the camshafts themselves, this will all come off as one piece.

Use the pry bars to SLOWLY separate the cam assembly from the rest of the head. Remember, you do not want those rockers to fall out! Work evenly until all sides are loose, then use your hands to pull the assembly off. Mind the rockers!

ROCKER ALERT: If you do end up knocking a rocker off, place it back where it came from! One isn't a huge deal, two isn't a huge deal as long as you know which one went where. If you can't remember, DO NOT just put them back randomly. They will need to be re-shimmed, so go talk to your local shop at that point. I'm not 100% sure, but if you can find a spec sheet and use a feeler gauge yourself then that will work.



Step 4: Removing the Head Studs

The head studs will be 12 point 14mm. There are six of them. In the image below, they are numbered 1 though six in the proper removal pattern. This pattern is the opposite of the torquing pattern and is important for not warping the head (which, by the way, is worse than dropping a rocker!).



These studs are torque to yield and cannot be reused. Throw them away or do whatever you want with them, that's your business not mine.


Step 5: Replace the Cam Assembly

You will need to replace the cam assembly so that the rockers are not disturbed. Don't worry about torque specs right now, they'll come off again when you put new studs in. Just throw the bolts back in and tighten them enough for the shafts to secure the rockers.

This step is extremely important, unless you plan on tiptoe-ing during the head removal process so as to not knock the rockers off.


Step 6: Remove the Head

Pry. Pry. Pry. Remember to always pry evenly and try to use the proper pry points. The heads are not RTV'd or locked down in any way, but they'll be a little stuck. Once the weak seal is broken you can pull them off by hand. Throw the gasket away or, again, do whatever it is you wish to do with it. But do not reuse it.


So there you have it! You should now be able to see your beautiful (or in my case, fucked up) pistons and cylinders! I hope this was helpful guys, this is my first DIY so I'm sure there are places I could improve.

Additionally, I do not know the torque specs to put everything back. I am simply tearing my block down, so I'm not quote worried about putting them back on yet. Let's just hope that when you get your heads off, your cylinders don't look like mine: