Loads of issues, time to fix...

[Apex_BRZ]

Greasing the rear deck last night in the trunk area made a big improvement. There is still a little bit of squeaking, so I'll take apart the rear deck and hit every weld gap I can find. Now, instead of creaking and popping and sounding like my rear windshield is breaking apart on every bump, the car is mostly just a dead thump on bumps. It's more like a solid car. The shirt stuffed in the cup holder and business card wedged in the window switch didn't do much. It still vibrates and buzzes. I'll take apart the door panel as well.

Clunk from between reverse/first... probably drive shaft slop. Get a one piece shaft(drive shaft shop). Makes it feel so much nicer(unless it's your shifter clunking, then I can't help).

I'm not spending money on aftermarket parts to fix anything. I'd rather live with it. Thank though!

[RichardsFRS]

You can't make a daily driver a race car without problems. Only problem my 13 has given me is window seal getting stuck on window. Surging idle which I found the cause and its a pretty common cause in most cars so I'm not sweting it. Sounds like you beat the shit out of it at the track and not happy if it doesn't perform it's daily duties well. Sounds like you need to change diff and tranny fluid too. Good luck

[Apex_BRZ]

Originally Posted by RichardsFRS

You can't make a daily driver a race car without problems. Only problem my 13 has given me is window seal getting stuck on window. Surging idle which I found the cause and its a pretty common cause in most cars so I'm not sweting it. Sounds like you beat the shit out of it at the track and not happy if it doesn't perform it's daily duties well. Sounds like you need to change diff and tranny fluid too. Good luck

Actually, the problems existed before I went to the track. But I wouldn't expect anyone to believe that, I can imagine everyone rolling their eyes. In fact, I'd argue that public roads are far worse for a car than a smooth race track. I don't beat the crap out of my car, ever. On public streets, it's not fast enough to bother. The car is a turd no matter how much you wring it out, so I drive like a grandpa. On the track, I drive ultra smooth, shift smoothly, etc. Not that any of that should matter (see first sentence).

It's easy to try and justify issues and just say "It's a Subaru!" or "you track it, you should expect it!", and "its a cheap car, that's how it works!". Nobody wants to accept the fact that the car is just not built well, and there are a TON of cars at the same price with much better build quality. The car is built like crap, and not great quality...and I recognize that. If there is something I can do to make it a little better to live with, that's all I'm looking for. You guys can try and justify the problems however you want to make yourselves sleep better at night.

And also, again, all the fluids are being changed. Regularly.

Thanks though!

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

I wouldn't bring it up if it was something so simple as can be blamed on "Iowa's cold weather". It's just a bit of common sense, which I understand a lot of people seem to lack these days. I expect a bit of sluggishness/resistance as usual when things are super cold.

However, I don't expect to nearly be locked out of a gear, grind gears, super notchy/clunky, etc. Those aren't normal issues, regardless of temp.

California 'cold days' are equivalent to a nice spring day for you and I get similar lockout on my 2nd gear. It's a design quirk, a shitty one for anyone who expects everything to do as it should all the time, but one none the less.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31929

Cheers for you using your car as it was designed, advertised, and sold, it's a damn shame SubieYota won't stand behind their product and fix the things that are serious issues with dealerships and regional offices hiding behind 'oh you must have driven it too hard'

Better tell your sponsored racing drivers to take it easy then, they might not make it through the race!

imo, the only problem you note that I would consider the responsibility of the manufacturer to fix is the throwout bearing which can be a catastrophic failure on a part that is not living up to an expected lifetime which should be 60k-120k of problem free operation, common knowledge was that the throwout bearing ALWAYS outlasted the clutch friction material or springs, but not this car, it's the other way around until aftermarket provides a quality TOB.

As for the rest, the rattles, chirps, and clunks, welcome to budget sportscar ownership. I can't think of one built in the last 50 years that doesn't have some niggling quality issues that most people let slide on other budget cars. For all intents and purposes we got a mid-range engine, suspension, and chassis (equivalent to >$30k cars), built to <$20k economy car standards.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

Actually, the problems existed before I went to the track. But I wouldn't expect anyone to believe that, I can imagine everyone rolling their eyes. In fact, I'd argue that public roads are far worse for a car than a smooth race track. I don't beat the crap out of my car, ever. On public streets, it's not fast enough to bother. The car is a turd no matter how much you wring it out, so I drive like a grandpa. On the track, I drive ultra smooth, shift smoothly, etc. Not that any of that should matter (see first sentence).

It's easy to try and justify issues and just say "It's a Subaru!" or "you track it, you should expect it!", and "its a cheap car, that's how it works!". Nobody wants to accept the fact that the car is just not built well, and there are a TON of cars at the same price with much better build quality. The car is built like crap, and not great quality...and I recognize that. If there is something I can do to make it a little better to live with, that's all I'm looking for. You guys can try and justify the problems however you want to make yourselves sleep better at night.

And also, again, all the fluids are being changed. Regularly.

Thanks though!

First gen, early run 2013 car has first gen, early run issues. Doesn't matter if a Chev or a Cadillac and it is great to say the shouldn't but this is the real world. This does not reflect the quality of the car as a whole. The solutions of many of the issues listed are on here or just follow the great advice that has been given here. My 14 has only the crickets and even then just if using ethanol gas and at 60,000 miles I have never once experienced any of the rest of your list.
Asking for help and then being snarky to those that respond with comments you don't agree with tells me that even if perfect you will always find fault anyway.
Good luck with you repairs.

[Ashikabi]

I have a 13 and actually have never noticed any of these but the reverse clunk and crickets. Just sayin

[nos145]

Rattling/Creaking Rear Deck
-> got mien fixed at dealer, they stamped it and then you jsut put silicone spray inside. done.

Buzzing Passenger Side Door/Window Switch
-> have to add insulation to stop them from moving. this is annoying when listenign to high bass music, so need to use good amounts of it.

DI Fuel Pump Chirping
-> oil cooler. good for chirps (apparently, need to install mine), good for temps.

Rattling Door Speaker (could be same issue as Buzzing door/switch)
-> i got sound insulation installed on both of my doors and under rear seats. it is so much better its not even funny. ask them to put a piece of expending foam into the place where the speaker grill connects to teh door, this will prevent the grill cover movement and rattle (at least it did for me).

[Apex_BRZ]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Asking for help and then being snarky to those that respond with comments you don't agree with tells me that even if perfect you will always find fault anyway.
Good luck with you repairs.

Snarky? It's the proper response to folks who pop into a thread just to proudly claim "It's a Subaru, that's what it's suppose to do!". Silly.

Don't think for a second I don't appreciate the help here, the actual help. If I can get all the creaking, buzzing, and rattles to stop...and my TO bearing doesn't finally melt and take out the clutch and other parts with it...I'll be almost happy as heck.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

Snarky? It's the proper response to folks who pop into a thread just to proudly claim "It's a Subaru, that's what it's suppose to do!". Silly.

Don't think for a second I don't appreciate the help here, the actual help. If I can get all the creaking, buzzing, and rattles to stop...and my TO bearing doesn't finally melt and take out the clutch and other parts with it...I'll be almost happy as heck.

I didn't feel you were snarky, just trying to stay on topic

[Apex_BRZ]

Removed the door panels and did the work there, as well as doing the TSB myself on the rear deck. 90% of the creaks/rattles/buzzing/clacking are gone.

Thanks guys!

[WNDSRFR]

I had the buzzing with the drivers side speaker. Drove me nuts. Especially with heavy bass.
I took the door panel apart and put foam between the parts. (There's a DIY on it). It worked for about a day. Next day the buzzing's back.
Took a look at the door panel and the problem became obvious. I keep my garage door remote clipped to the drivers door. Removed it and the buzzing was gone.

Felt really dumb.