What was your drive away price?

[newft86]

Originally Posted by FT-86GOD

LOL... I dunno??? the toyota type??? i dont sign til tomorrow so would love to know the difference between electric and solution type before hand though....

As for car polish/wash etc i ONLY use AUTO GLYM... Nothing else.......

The electric type is applied by i believe (never seen it done but tonnes of people get it on prestige cars in NSW) an electrostatic charge and basically what this does is slow down the chemical reaction between the metal bits in your car and oxygen, humidity and salt in the air to prevent rust before it even starts. Another benefit of electric rust protection is that once the charge is applied it pretty much covers the whole car in one go - no need to open door trims and the like to make sure the rust proof has applied correctly.

Out of the 2 types, solution based and electric based, the electric one is usually far more expensive and far more valuable as once it is applied, it never needs to be re-applied again - not so with solution based rust protection which needs reapplication every few years or so.

Also bare in mind that there are also a few different types of paint protection, the 2 most common are called paint protection (obvious huh lol) and another coating usually referred to as nature guard, the latter stops bird poop eating your paint as well as industrial fallout. the 2 products are usually offered as either part of a pack but sometimes individually also.

Auto Glym should be ok just check with the dealer first.

[FT-86GOD]

Originally Posted by newft86

The electric type is applied by i believe (never seen it done but tonnes of people get it on prestige cars in NSW) an electrostatic charge and basically what this does is slow down the chemical reaction between the metal bits in your car and oxygen, humidity and salt in the air to prevent rust before it even starts. Another benefit of electric rust protection is that once the charge is applied it pretty much covers the whole car in one go - no need to open door trims and the like to make sure the rust proof has applied correctly.

Out of the 2 types, solution based and electric based, the electric one is usually far more expensive and far more valuable as once it is applied, it never needs to be re-applied again - not so with solution based rust protection which needs reapplication every few years or so.

Also bare in mind that there are also a few different types of paint protection, the 2 most common are called paint protection (obvious huh lol) and another coating usually referred to as nature guard, the latter stops bird poop eating your paint as well as industrial fallout. the 2 products are usually offered as either part of a pack but sometimes individually also.

Auto Glym should be ok just check with the dealer first.

What do u recommend ur buyers to use when talking about wash & wax?

[newft86]

Ask the supplying dealer, if they don't know, tell me what brand it is and I'll find out for you.

[LeftFootBrake]

From my own research on paint protection, the current state of the art seems to be a product called OptiCoat. It is called OptiGuard in other regions and is similar but not identical to the product sold by the same manufacturer to consumers, which is called OptiCoat 2.0.

According to what I've read both on this forum and others (eg. autopia, autogeek, etc.) OptiCoat requires no additional waxing or frequent inconvenient rituals that the other products require to help maintain the protection.

The consensus on the forums seems to be to have a detailer do it, rather than DIY OptiCoat 2.0, so they can also do a paint decontamination and fix up any issues in the paintwork before applying the OptiCoat. Those that are really pedantic go so far as to insist the dealer doesn't get anyone to touch the paint first, as they believe the techniques often used, like machine polishing, create issues. Lots of photos on the internet of botched paint jobs after delivery is why this is. I'm sure it has to do with the quality of detailer employed by the dealer and YMMV. Of course, you're going to be paying dealer delivery charges regardless, so up to you on how far you take this. Depending on state and whether you do a paint decontamination before the OptiCoat, expect to pay between 500 and 1000.

It seems those "in the know" think dealers overcharge for the use of amateurs and that if you want a good tint or detailing job for a decent price go elsewhere. Since I've never used OptiCoat or bothered purchasing tint or paint or rust protection on my vehicles previously, I'm not in a position to confirm or deny any of these assertions. So please note that I'm not suggesting what you should do or trying to contradict Andrew in any way. Just trying to relay some info in a friendly manner and leaving it to you to do any further research from here.

[coyote]

Originally Posted by FT-86GOD

Any opinions?

My opinion is that you stick with the dealer who gave you the best deal first time. What I'm talking about is if everyone is selling something for $100 and won't move on price, but one person offers you a $10 discount ... you should buy from that person rather than run back to a seller who previously wouldn't move from $100 and ask if he'll do it for $89.

My second opinion is that the aero kit is hideous and any dealer who made the mistake of ordering one should be keen to move it.

Heat and UV radiation are not the same thing.

Newft86, the electronic rust protection you speak of, is it different to the old sacrificial anode setups that are basically the same as those used on boats?

[coyote]

Originally Posted by LeftFootBrake

From my own research on paint protection, the current state of the art seems to be a product called OptiCoat.

You are 100% correct. I can refer anyone in Qld to an excellent Opticoat dealer. Wouldn't waste my time nor money on anything else.

[newft86]

Originally Posted by coyote

My opinion is that you stick with the dealer who gave you the best deal first time. What I'm talking about is if everyone is selling something for $100 and won't move on price, but one person offers you a $10 discount ... you should buy from that person rather than run back to a seller who previously wouldn't move from $100 and ask if he'll do it for $89.

My second opinion is that the aero kit is hideous and any dealer who made the mistake of ordering one should be keen to move it.

Heat and UV radiation are not the same thing.

Newft86, the electronic rust protection you speak of, is it different to the old sacrificial anode setups that are basically the same as those used on boats?

That's a really good question coyote. Possibly but unsure.

[w arghh x]

$33745 drive away
Silver GT manual.

[Gir]

Originally Posted by coyote

You are 100% correct. I can refer anyone in Qld to an excellent Opticoat dealer. Wouldn't waste my time nor money on anything else.

Yeah, I'm gonna get my Opti coated straight away, just have to find a detailer to do it.

[LeftFootBrake]

Originally Posted by Gir

Yeah, I'm gonna get my Opti coated straight away, just have to find a detailer to do it.

On other forums, Melbournians seem to recommend http://www.euroglossprestige.com.au/

[FT-86GOD]

Cheers to nikkojoe newft coyote and LFB....... Stuff the protection package... I know no one in Perth that is a high quality detailer.. Everyone myself and mates have gone to have

been useless and unprofessional.. Even a guy i know whop details Ferraris, Porsches, Mercs etc is average... I know ill end up receiving my car with contaminates under the

protection and most likely have minor swirls as well.. Im best to leave it, request they keep the panel protection stickers on and try to source a Pro to do the protection though i

doubt ill find one...

Coyote im glad u think the aero kit is hideous.... And u are a majority in that....

I HATE spoilers, all spoilers.... BUT this spoiler is so over the top it almost gives it a Bosozoku look to the car and as ive said before i love the Bosozoku style so thats the reason im

getting in plus i do think on the track it will give some minor downforce...

I get my TRD and Trust kit in November and will mix and match bits of those kits to make the car different.... im just happy i will have bits of bodykit laying around to play with and

change up the look whenever i can be fukt or whenever i damage a panel.... The aero wing wont be on all the time but certainly down at the track it will...

I do hope everyone hates the aero kit and it is not seen by me much on the street...

[coyote]

Back on the subject of price, $1,895 is the dealer delivery fee you should be paying. Standard is $2,095 but dealers have been instructed to charge $1,895 on these cars.

[coyote]

Originally Posted by FT-86GOD

I know no one in Perth that is a high quality detailer.. Everyone myself and mates have gone to have been useless and unprofessional.

Not just in Perth. Most of them in Qld are also useless.

[Nardi330]

Originally Posted by coyote

Back on the subject of price, $1,895 is the dealer delivery fee you should be paying. Standard is $2,095 but dealers have been instructed to charge $1,895 on these cars.

so what would be the correct driver away price in Bne for a GTS manual with met paint?

RRP 35,490
met paint 400
dealer delivery 1,895
stamp duty 1,134
rego & CTP 671.12 (less $24.30 plate fee if you have private plate)
total $39,590.12

is this correct?