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Old 03-16-2016, 05:20 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Shankenstein View Post
Here's my policy when getting dealer service:
- Find someone in the service department who races. There usually are a few.
- Show him your car and talk about their race car(s) for a few minutes.
- Mention why you're getting work done today, and get feedback on the difficulty of the repair.
- When you pick up the car, check-in with your new friend. Usually they will have kept an eye on things.
- If there's some leniency in the interpretation of your warranty... politely ask questions.

Being friendly and having a cool car goes a long way, with regard to dealer service.
this is what i did when i had RSX-S back in time. i went in for condensation on tail light and randomly my assigned Mechanic was honda guy so we talked a lot. he hooked me up on keymatching my hondata K-Pro so didnt have any dealer hassle and hook up pricing as well.

BTW i never go to dealership unless serious warranty needed like engine failure or transmission. minor stuff, i just pay and do it myself. spending 1-3 hours in dealership for 5-10min job is stupid. oh and i cant trust them.
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:32 PM   #16
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ok, am i hearing the same thing?

when i drive with my windows down i can hear a very faint clicking. it sounds like if you put a piece of wet mud on your tire and you hear it stick to the road every rotation? or if you gently tap a pen on the table?

or is this issue a lot louder?

i have a 2015 brz
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:39 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Atticus808 View Post
ok, am i hearing the same thing?

when i drive with my windows down i can hear a very faint clicking. it sounds like if you put a piece of wet mud on your tire and you hear it stick to the road every rotation? or if you gently tap a pen on the table?

or is this issue a lot louder?

i have a 2015 brz
Check the video on the first link I posted on my previous post. That's the sound of a failed outer CV joint
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:40 PM   #18
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Thanks for all the input. I prob will just end up doing it myself. I have a 35mm axle socket but it does not fit.
It seems to be too thick if that makes any sense to get it in(no pun intended).
I have a tq wrench and a rubber mallet but not the chisel or whatver that other tool is called. @mav1178 you are right I was really about to lose my cool but kept it together when I picked up my car. I have been neglecting my baby any way and need to get under her more often.
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:42 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Atticus808 View Post
ok, am i hearing the same thing?

when i drive with my windows down i can hear a very faint clicking. it sounds like if you put a piece of wet mud on your tire and you hear it stick to the road every rotation? or if you gently tap a pen on the table?

or is this issue a lot louder?

i have a 2015 brz
Yup mine is the same maybe a bit louder. The best way i can describe it is if you have one of those push pens. Push it in and then let it snap back in. That is the sound.
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:53 PM   #20
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Is there like a Subaru shop manual that shows the replacement of the axle nut. They are telling me it's fine the way it is not being staked and the cotter pin is the only thing needed to hold it in place. I want to believe them but rather double check.
I replaced an axle myself and peened the new axle nut myself. With the slightest experience and the right tools it's a 2-2.5 hour job. The dealer cheesing out on a 3 minute process tells me you're going to the wrong mechanic.

If you must have a dealer do the work, take it to another dealer and tell them you want that axle nut peened properly. The other 3 will be peened from the factory, why is the current dealer telling you the new one doesn't need to be?

The reason why you want that peened is that the torque spec for the axle nut is only 140 ft.lb. From what I understand that's not much torque for an axle nut (some cars torque this upwards of 180-200 ft.lb. So the nut can back out given the tremendous twisting forces and vibration on it.

Not my car, but seriously, this is all they have to do.
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Old 03-16-2016, 07:42 PM   #21
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I also have the "clink" sound. Took it to the dealer, and after diagnosing all day they told me it was normal. Re-torqued it myself and it went away for a while, but is back now. I'm going to replace the axle nut when I get around to it.

May also look into the e-brake bits as well.
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Old 03-16-2016, 10:51 PM   #22
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Want a job done right then do it yourself. I completely agree the dealer should do there job but its never there strong suit.
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:20 PM   #23
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Don't do it yourself!!! I want to see the video of them pulling the wheel and you can act surprised - 'someone stole the cotter pin and sealed up the hole in the axle!'
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Old 03-19-2016, 05:19 AM   #24
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Tell them you need a new nut. Tell them to replace the nut, or you will file a claim with Subaru North America. It's a common Subaru problem. It happens with every WRX, STI, Legacy GT, anything they make that makes power has crappy axle nuts.

The dealer doesn't pay for the nut, they bill Subaru. It's fricking $6 nut...Tell him he's wasting your time, his time, and the tech's time and to just replace the nut. You CANNOT re-torque the nut. Once and done. These nuts night as well me made of pewter. They are super soft. I had one torqued to 145 ft lbs, FSM says 141, and it still clicked. Put it in the trash and got a new one and it stopped clicking.

Don't let them diagnose it. They're going to wussyfoot the car around the block and tell you nothing is wrong. Don't act like you don't know what you're talking about, or they'll just assume they know everything and you know nothing. Go in, tell them what's broken, how to fix it, and to get the job done.

This is what the axle nut click sounds like:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PpjrnQQC8ac"]BRZ Axle Nut click - YouTube[/ame]
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Last edited by Hyper4mance2k; 03-19-2016 at 01:17 PM.
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Old 03-19-2016, 12:56 PM   #25
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I honestly do not know how peiple let the dealerships push them around. You bought a car with a warranty. Dint be a push over. There is no such thing as voiding a warranty. In order to deny a warranty claim, TOYOBARU, not the dealership, must prove that a modification caused the failure, what ever it may be.
The dealer cannot let your car leave without your car being fixed. You are protected by the Magneson-Moss Warranty Protection Act of 1975.
"I do not feel safe driving the vehicle, and I am not leaving until it's fixed. If you refuse to fix my vehicle to safe operating condition, I will seek counsel for your violation of the Magneson-Moss Act of 1975."
The dealership, and ultimately Toyobaru, is in violation of federal law by pushing you people around.
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