Car losing traction in corners

[Kostamojen]

Originally Posted by Chase1996

I'm pretty sure my shocks aren't blown...not sure what I described that would make you think that? Also, I have brand new springs?

How many miles are on the shocks?

I ran with just springs on my car for a year and it never felt like it was rolling or swaying more than it did stock, less in fact. But then again those Eibach's you are running are not really designed for much more than lowering for looks... The "over 1.5" of lowering offered by those Sportlines is far too much for the stock shocks if you are doing serious driving.

[Aztec]

Just wanted to chime in here. I'm running eibach sportlines with Goodyear F1A2 245 r40s. I also put on koni yellow shocks to help with the lowering springs.

Running LCAs in the back with camber bolts in the front
I believe I am at -1.4 camber in the front and -1 in the back. I would try to dial in the negative front camber alot. Like as much as you can TBH you're practically at zero in the front, I would dial the rear back maybe .3-.5 to be around or a little more negative that -1.

Negative camber at the front helps with turn in and stability in higher speed corners. I've had no problems with my sportlines at all. you dont have a TON of toe, but something you want as little as possible generally; negative camber is much more beneficial

~Get a new alignment asap~

[boredom.is.me]

I'm also riding sportlines. I'm far from a pro driver, but very few can keep up with me through the mountains. The springs aren't the issue.

I'm currently running -2.1 in the front and -1.3 in the rear with PSS, but didn't have any issues on my stock alignment on crappy tires either.

[Hyper4mance2k]

Sportlines are way too low for the stock struts. You'll be riding on the bumpstops all the time, especially on the MPSS.
You can't just throw parts at it and think it'll handle better. This car had thousands of hours in suspension design for a reason.
If you cut the bump stops you may see some improved performance by letting the suspension move more.
Sway bars might help, but they ride is going to be absolutely crap with the addition of the sway bars on the stock struts. If you're insistent on keeping the Sportlines, you need to upgrade the struts and cut the bumpstops. Then you can think about some sway bars. Sway bars are not a handling fix, but something used to fine tune rotation after your suspension is figured out.
To be honest even upgrading struts won't help much on the sportlines; they really are just too low and too soft. As already mentioned, there isn't enough bump travel with them and you'll just end up bottoming out whatever struts on put on the car. no matter the bump stop you use. You could try buying long soft bumpstops to act as a progressive increase in spring rate ad the car moves through bump, but it's still just a bandaid.

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by jawn

MORE QUESTIONS.

You shouldn't need to get an alignment if you're just installing sway bars, to answer one of your questions. I also don't recommend going to a big-ass rear bar.

EVEN MORE QUESTIONS...actually i dont have any. But! RCE yellow and B8's tho....

[Calum]

I drove a car with Sportlines before, it was atrocious and did exactly what you've described, pitched and rolled whenever the suspension was compressed from a corner and a tire hit a small bump. The ride/handling in that car was literally one of the worst I've ever driven that wasn't actually broken.

I disagree with sticky tires and stock suspension. Maybe my driving wasn't up to par, maybe my roads are worse... I don't know. But my experience was different. For me I ended up moving to RCE yellow springs to help the transition onto the bump stops with the otherwise stock suspension and stock tires. When I moved up to MPSS (yes, I know they are only a street tire, that's all I was using them for) I was back to unpredictable responses to mid corner bumps.

What I ended up with is RCE 0's. I like them a lot, and would recommend them in a heartbeat. They're rebuildable so you wont have to worry about replacing them when they wear out. They're very well damped, with enough head room to move to stiffer springs if you choose, but still very livable for daily driving. But that was the best for me and my price range. If I were you I'd talk to Andy or Myles from RCE, truely awesome guys and their whole business is built around getting the customer into the right product.

Aside from that, for the love of all that is holy, you need some more negative camber in the front. You'll destroy the outside edge of your tires in short order with 0 camber. I'm presently at -2.5 degs in the front and I'm thinking of getting camber plates so I can take it to -3.5, and some more caster. (My golf has more caster than this car, and it's front wheel drive. )

The rest of the alignment is pretty subjective. A lot of guys, myself included, are running around 0 rear toe. It does wonder a little more on the highway, but it's still very stable. The way the car rotates, though, more than makes up for any wondering on the highway. Based on your track record of cars and what you've described of your driving, I'd recommend this for you as well.

I'd leave the rear camber, it's pretty close to even and once you get the extra grip from the front camber you'll likely want that much rear camber. (If you only get camber bolts for the front, you'll end up somewhere around -1.5 degs camber in the front, in that case, I'd reduce the rear camber to -1 degs.)

Just one more thing. A sway bar, or anti-sway bar, is a functional part of the suspension. It helps to reduce side to side motion by transferring compressive forces from the outside tire to the inside tire. A strut bar is a brace that connects the tops of the struts. Strut bars are not functional parts of a suspension, they just help to keep the frame of the car from flexing. Putting a larger rear sway bar on a rear wheel drive car can make it much harder to get power down on corner exit because they actually reduce grip to the inside tire. That's fine if you want to move to a better rear diff, but I'm not looking to spend that much money.

[churchx]

From given chart of Chase1996 imho obvious reason for traction loss is toe-out in rear. OEM-ish way of alignment is zero toe-in/out all around for least tire wear, but imho it should be much better with zero toe-in front, and slight toe-in in rear for extra stability under power in RWD. Other way around then currently in his car now that is.
More camber in front won't hurt, but first that toe-out in rear should be fixed.

[Chase1996]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

Sportlines are way too low for the stock struts. You'll be riding on the bumpstops all the time, especially on the MPSS.
You can't just throw parts at it and think it'll handle better. This car had thousands of hours in suspension design for a reason.
If you cut the bump stops you may see some improved performance by letting the suspension move more.
Sway bars might help, but they ride is going to be absolutely crap with the addition of the sway bars on the stock struts. If you're insistent on keeping the Sportlines, you need to upgrade the struts and cut the bumpstops. Then you can think about some sway bars. Sway bars are not a handling fix, but something used to fine tune rotation after your suspension is figured out.
To be honest even upgrading struts won't help much on the sportlines; they really are just too low and too soft. As already mentioned, there isn't enough bump travel with them and you'll just end up bottoming out whatever struts on put on the car. no matter the bump stop you use. You could try buying long soft bumpstops to act as a progressive increase in spring rate ad the car moves through bump, but it's still just a bandaid.

S, what do you recommend to frix this? Get coilovers? Also for the long stop bumpstops can you recommend any.

[Chase1996]

Originally Posted by churchx

From given chart of Chase1996 imho obvious reason for traction loss is toe-out in rear. OEM-ish way of alignment is zero toe-in/out all around for least tire wear, but imho it should be much better with zero toe-in front, and slight toe-in in rear for extra stability under power in RWD. Other way around then currently in his car now that is.
More camber in front won't hurt, but first that toe-out in rear should be fixed.

SO what should I try to get my specs too?

[churchx]

Why not just visit some alignment shop and ask to dial in some toe-in at rear? And at same time try to max out camber in front. In most cases i've seen for these cars camber by 0.5 more in front then in rear. For example F:1.5 deg & R:1, F:2.5 & R:2 .. If you have stock suspension, might be worth buying some crash bolts to help dialing more camber then it at stock provides.

[Chase1996]

Originally Posted by churchx

Why not just visit some alignment shop and ask to dial in some toe-in at rear? And at same time try to max out camber in front. In most cases i've seen for these cars camber by 0.5 more in front then in rear. For example F:1.5 deg & R:1, F:2.5 & R:2 .. If you have stock suspension, might be worth buying some crash bolts to help dialing more camber then it at stock provides.

For one im not an expert on cars, or suspensions. I would have no idea what to tell them...even so would this even fix the issue? It seems the bump stops are to short.

[Leonardo]

Originally Posted by Chase1996

For one im not an expert on cars, or suspensions. I would have no idea what to tell them...even so would this even fix the issue? It seems the bump stops are to short.

All the parts have to work in harmony. You shouldn't be hitting them during any kind of normal driving.

I went with the prokit springs because they work with the stock struts. I have 40000 miles with them. I think members have posted good info on what to change on your alignment.

[Chase1996]

Originally Posted by Leonardo

All the parts have to work in harmony. You shouldn't be hitting them during any kind of normal driving.

I went with the prokit springs because they work with the stock struts. I have 40000 miles with them. I think members have posted good info on what to change on your alignment.

What should be the final alignment I ask them to change it too? and if i do, do you think the problem will be fixed?

[Chase1996]

Originally Posted by churchx

Why not just visit some alignment shop and ask to dial in some toe-in at rear? And at same time try to max out camber in front. In most cases i've seen for these cars camber by 0.5 more in front then in rear. For example F:1.5 deg & R:1, F:2.5 & R:2 .. If you have stock suspension, might be worth buying some crash bolts to help dialing more camber then it at stock provides.

SO this is what you think I should ask them to change it to? Thansk for the info.