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Old 02-12-2016, 09:40 PM   #785
ScionOfHorus
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Originally Posted by Aaronimoe View Post
Did you confuse it with something else? which part of the install was this because I can see my self doing something like that.
Yeah, was trying to loosen the radiator support to get more room to deal with something. Dropped the socket, and felt for the nut instead of looking what I was unscrewing. Got the AC condensor line. In my haste to tighten it back down after lying the refrigerant out, I over torqued it and fucked up the gasket and stripped out the bolt hole.

Ended up having to bore it out, retap threads, and used a bigger bolt and custom gasket, then liquid gasket to ensure a good seal. Then refilled the AC system and it works fine again
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Old 02-14-2016, 06:42 PM   #786
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are there any parts differences between a kit for a MT and AT?
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Old 02-14-2016, 09:58 PM   #787
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are there any parts differences between a kit for a MT and AT?
Installation instructions are slightly different; the kits are identical.
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Old 02-15-2016, 03:36 PM   #788
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Originally Posted by Aaronimoe View Post
Who here did a DIY install? what kind of problems did you run into (both during and after install)?

also whats the easiest/cheapest way to get a boost and oil temp gauge set up?
I did the install with a couple of buddies and all went smoothly, the only roadblocks were:
1.making sure the inter cooler tubes dont touch with the passenger side headlight
2. making sure the oil in/out lines dont touch the belts and making sure the banjo bolts still line up
3. the MAF air line that connects to the air filter we found was hard to route around the belts
4. they forgot my belt in my kit and had to mail it separately so make sure if your order it all your parts are included
5. forgot the name of the line, but the air line that connects to the top of the block, youre suppose to install a part to direct the airflow in one direction. when done so the hose didnt connect properly and was loose even with a clamp.

This was our first FI install as a club and these were the minor things we encountered, hope it brings some more insight. Fairly straightforward install would recommend setting aside a weekend to DIY, it took us a full 24 hours not including the tune
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Old 02-15-2016, 09:19 PM   #789
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Hi. I have the JRSC installed on my brz, and it's been having boost leak issues. Auto shop concluded it was a BoV leak after a smoke test and retightened the hoses and clamps. It was back to normal for 3 days until it went back under boost. Is it possible that the BoV needs to be replaced? Where would I get a replacement? I asked another auto shop, and they suspect it's the evap solenoid line. How would I go about checking that? Where is it? ._. Halp!
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Old 02-15-2016, 10:24 PM   #790
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Originally Posted by cyrushwang View Post
Hi. I have the JRSC installed on my brz, and it's been having boost leak issues. Auto shop concluded it was a BoV leak after a smoke test and retightened the hoses and clamps. It was back to normal for 3 days until it went back under boost. Is it possible that the BoV needs to be replaced? Where would I get a replacement? I asked another auto shop, and they suspect it's the evap solenoid line. How would I go about checking that? Where is it? ._. Halp!
I'm sorry to inform you that there is no BOV in this setup.

Who installed your JRSC? That person/shop should be the one responsible for fixing an installation error.
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Old 02-16-2016, 09:19 PM   #791
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I'm sorry to inform you that there is no BOV in this setup.

Who installed your JRSC? That person/shop should be the one responsible for fixing an installation error.
While I agree with this sentiment, going to a shop that missed (unless they added it to the kit) something as obvious as a BOV would give me significant pause for caution. If you have the opportunity to find a vetted and reputable shop, I would encourage you to take your patronage there.
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Old 02-16-2016, 09:42 PM   #792
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I'm sorry to inform you that there is no BOV in this setup.

Who installed your JRSC? That person/shop should be the one responsible for fixing an installation error.
Then what's this?



It's a recirc style blow off valve. AKA a recirc valve (or bypass valve if you want), but technically still a blow off as it functions just the same... just "recirculates" the air instead of venting to atmo.

So technically that shop was not wrong.
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Old 02-16-2016, 10:34 PM   #793
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Then what's this?

It's a recirc style blow off valve. AKA a recirc valve (or bypass valve if you want), but technically still a blow off as it functions just the same... just "recirculates" the air instead of venting to atmo.

So technically that shop was not wrong.
"blah blah blah"
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Old 02-16-2016, 11:22 PM   #794
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"blah blah blah"
What an intelligent and thought inspiring comment.
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Old 02-18-2016, 01:36 PM   #795
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Originally Posted by dennyhendrix View Post
are there any parts differences between a kit for a MT and AT?
There is a vacuum line that is ran differently on the AT. Other than that, the system and installation are the same.
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Old 02-21-2016, 04:13 PM   #796
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Went to a small dyno day yesterday and had, even while heat soaked from "Carmageddon" and dynoing in the hot part of the day, some nice results. I'd originally planned to bring my SRT-4 but it isn't ready yet.



A lightly modded C5 Corvette was also on this dyno and put down just over 370. The car's first pass drew some attention and a small throng came to watch the other passes. It was a fairly mixed group of blown Cobras, Stage 3 and big turbo SRT-4's, and other random muscle cars. Seeing the muscle car / domestic group's reactions was priceless.

Thumbs up to @Jackson Racing again for making such a quality kit, and bringing to market some nice upgrade options recently as well. I fully believe that with a C38 and Ace headers, the car would see north of 400whp and hurt more feelings than it already has.

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Setup 1: KW C38, Grams 550, Grams 265, 4bar, FlexFuel, Delicious
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Setup 5: JR C30 HBP, DW 700, DW 300, 3bar, FlexFuel, Delicious, Built Motor
Setup 6: JR C30 HBP, DW 700, DW 300, 3bar, FlexFuel, Delicious, Closed Deck Built Motor
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Old 02-21-2016, 09:24 PM   #797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPCorBUST View Post
Went to a small dyno day yesterday and had, even while heat soaked from "Carmageddon" and dynoing in the hot part of the day, some nice results. I'd originally planned to bring my SRT-4 but it isn't ready yet.



A lightly modded C5 Corvette was also on this dyno and put down just over 370. The car's first pass drew some attention and a small throng came to watch the other passes. It was a fairly mixed group of blown Cobras, Stage 3 and big turbo SRT-4's, and other random muscle cars. Seeing the muscle car / domestic group's reactions was priceless.

Thumbs up to @Jackson Racing again for making such a quality kit, and bringing to market some nice upgrade options recently as well. I fully believe that with a C38 and Ace headers, the car would see north of 400whp and hurt more feelings than it already has.

I love that progressive pulls made MORE power. I'm sure a few people were upset
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Old 03-18-2016, 03:23 PM   #798
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Question

Mike, look at the file numbers.

Anyhow

I’ts been a long wait, lurking the forums, but now I have a few questions…

1. Where can I get 15 or 20 psi pulley for c38? Is it even realistic? (built+supporting mods ofc)

2. What’s the rpm of the c38 at 12psi? Suggestions for formula to calculate proper pulley that doesn’t overspin the unit at 8k+ rpm? yes...i needz stupid things

3. Has the serpentine belt been tested with higher boost and were there any issues? (slipping breaking etc) How long does it hold up?

For a long time, I was looking at the KW kit, but with so much negative info/complaints I’ve found all over, I decided to hold out until JR made their upgraded kit. Planning to get it in a few weeks.

Regarding the knocking, is it due to leaning out or just bad fuel or trying to remain carb legal against all odds or what?
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