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Old 01-12-2016, 05:55 PM   #85
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I'll find out from Subaru what calid the ECU has, but I would assume they loaded the one for my vin number.

Subaru is really confused, and they're telling me to buy a new gauge cluster???? Please someons tell me I don't have to do this, slowly going broke and insane
If all the guages are reading fine and dash lights working etc then the dash is likely ok.

I had the U0155 dash error when i loaded a D00G rom in a A01G car, car ran fine dash worked but just got tge cel light limp mode and U0155, reloaded correct rom to match car and dash and all good.

hopefully thgats you problem as well.
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:09 PM   #86
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Honestly if that's it I'm going to be very disappointed with the dealership... But also happy to get my car back even if it won't have a turbo on it
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Old 01-13-2016, 08:41 PM   #87
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If all the guages are reading fine and dash lights working etc then the dash is likely ok.

I had the U0155 dash error when i loaded a D00G rom in a A01G car, car ran fine dash worked but just got tge cel light limp mode and U0155, reloaded correct rom to match car and dash and all good.

hopefully thgats you problem as well.
For an update, I called the dealer a few times today to try to get ahold of Craig at Puente Hills Subaru, and he told me that there were more codes on the car than just the U0155. He also said I think U1201 (it could have been U0102 too but I didn't write them down), and for sure U0073... I asked him what calibration ID was on the ECU, and he didn't know. He told me the dealer had already ordered the cluster though... which was odd because I don't remember agreeing to pay for that.. hopefully I won't have to. I told him to wait to put it in and have his technician check the calibration ID on the ECU to make sure it wasn't the wrong one, but he did say the ECU is indeed a 2013 so he didn't know how it could possibly have another Calibration ID on it.

I called Evasive (now talking with Ed instead of Randy there since Randy is out for a few days) and he told me he doesn't think a new dash will work either... Randy, Ed and I don't think it will work but the dealer thinks it's the "next step in troubleshooting" despite the fact that my dash was completely fine before the swap...
However, so was my ECU, so I asked Ed if he could find out the calibration ID on my stock 2013 ECU that Evasive concluded was bad in some way... My thinking is that if it's ZA1JA700C ,900C, A00C or one of those other ones rather than ZA1JB01C it could have caused the cam sensor reading problem as those tunes apparently had issues with the cam stuff if I recall correctly... So if they figure out it's one of those other ROMs, I might ask them to update it and put it in my car and see if it idles properly...

I'll also find out if I do indeed need a new gauge cluster this way, because if these other codes aren't thrown then maybe all will be well...

I'm really hoping that the B01C, B00C, A01C, A00C, 900C and 700C are indeed all compatible. If they are then this should work. If they're not I'm going to have to figure out what version was on my car stock and then flash that one. The problem here is the car is at subaru right now not evasive, and they have already programmed my keys to 2 other ECUs.
If these issues are caused by problems with their programming to my ECU, and my factory ECU won't work with the keys since they've been programmed to two different other ECU's, I'm going to have another problem since they'll screw up my stock ECU too....

Basically, Idk what to do...
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Old 01-13-2016, 09:01 PM   #88
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For an update, I called the dealer a few times today to try to get ahold of Craig at Puente Hills Subaru, and he told me that there were more codes on the car than just the U0155. He also said I think U1201 (it could have been U0102 too but I didn't write them down), and for sure U0073... I asked him what calibration ID was on the ECU, and he didn't know. He told me the dealer had already ordered the cluster though... which was odd because I don't remember agreeing to pay for that.. hopefully I won't have to. I told him to wait to put it in and have his technician check the calibration ID on the ECU to make sure it wasn't the wrong one, but he did say the ECU is indeed a 2013 so he didn't know how it could possibly have another Calibration ID on it.

I called Evasive (now talking with Ed instead of Randy there since Randy is out for a few days) and he told me he doesn't think a new dash will work either... Randy, Ed and I don't think it will work but the dealer thinks it's the "next step in troubleshooting" despite the fact that my dash was completely fine before the swap...
However, so was my ECU, so I asked Ed if he could find out the calibration ID on my stock 2013 ECU that Evasive concluded was bad in some way... My thinking is that if it's ZA1JA700C ,900C, A00C or one of those other ones rather than ZA1JB01C it could have caused the cam sensor reading problem as those tunes apparently had issues with the cam stuff if I recall correctly... So if they figure out it's one of those other ROMs, I might ask them to update it and put it in my car and see if it idles properly...

I'll also find out if I do indeed need a new gauge cluster this way, because if these other codes aren't thrown then maybe all will be well...

I'm really hoping that the B01C, B00C, A01C, A00C, 900C and 700C are indeed all compatible. If they are then this should work. If they're not I'm going to have to figure out what version was on my car stock and then flash that one. The problem here is the car is at subaru right now not evasive, and they have already programmed my keys to 2 other ECUs.
If these issues are caused by problems with their programming to my ECU, and my factory ECU won't work with the keys since they've been programmed to two different other ECU's, I'm going to have another problem since they'll screw up my stock ECU too....

Basically, Idk what to do...

700C,900C, A00C,A01C,B00C are all compatable with B01C

B01C is the best rom to run as all the others were superceeded due cam or ilde stability issues.

however None of those earlier roms should cause the car to throw U0155 or U0073 or other CAN buss or dash cluster codes. Its only if you use a newer rom like D00C on an older car.

I cannot believe the dealer "does not know" what calid is is in the ECU rom it comes up in Techstream or the subaru diagnostic system the software they use, makes me think they dont know what they are doing.

Those other codes relate to CAN buss problems, its possible they are caused by a faulty dash, but it might be they have not coded the ecu correctly or their is a loose connector or wiring problem as the can buss connects all the cars control units together.

These things are hard to diagnose even when your onsite.
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Old 01-13-2016, 09:13 PM   #89
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700C,900C, A00C,A01C,B00C are all compatable with B01C

B01C is the best rom to run as all the others were superceeded due cam or ilde stability issues.

however None of those earlier roms should cause the car to throw U0155 or U0073 or other CAN buss or dash cluster codes. Its only if you use a newer rom like D00C on an older car.

I cannot believe the dealer "does not know" what calid is is in the ECU rom it comes up in Techstream or the subaru diagnostic system the software they use, makes me think they dont know what they are doing.

Those other codes relate to CAN buss problems, its possible they are caused by a faulty dash, but it might be they have not coded the ecu correctly or their is a loose connector or wiring problem as the can buss connects all the cars control units together.

These things are hard to diagnose even when your onsite.
Yeah this is turning out to be very difficult.. I couldn't believe that they didn't know either. The guy is just a service advisor though so he doesn't actually work on the car, but still they should have recorded it. The master technician there apparently called subaru headquarters or something to try to get it figured out and still couldn't though... He just said they went through 10 pages of the book on troubleshooting and now they say they need a new gauge cluster and then they will troubleshoot the other codes...

I'm actually hoping Evasive flashed a previous ROM to my factory 2013 ECU and that the B01C fixes the problem since they said all that was wrong was the cam sensor reading improperly no communication or canbus codes no nothing everything worked except for that.

Hopefully the key still works with it, because if not, and they try to program my keys to my stock ECU and it causes problems I'm going to be screwed.

Although I'll have to pay well well over $1000 or $1500 due to all this troubleshooting that's been going on, on top of the cost of labor and the motor itself and other parts I'm going crazy

And unless they broke the dash or evasive broke the dash which is unlikely the dash is FINE everything worked before this I don't know why this is turning out to be impossible
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Old 01-21-2016, 05:39 PM   #90
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So it turns out when Evasive changed the ROM on my stock factory ECU from their 10psi dyno tune to the OEM base map after dropping my new motor in (since there is no longer a turbo kit on the car), they actually flashed my Full Blown Motorsports 7psi basemap that was on the car when I first took it to them in 2014 to get the car dyno tuned. I found this out recently when asking about which calibration ID was on the ECUs I've been trying to use with my car.

I suppose their tuner concluded I was driving on the OEM map when I took the car to them to get it tuned back in 2014 even though it had the turbo kit on it, and the ECU already had an ECUtek license installed on it. They even worked on my turbo kit install when it had the basemap a couple weeks before I got it dyno tuned so I for sure figured they'd know it's a basemap. But they told me I'd be surprised how many people slap a turbo kit on their cars and drive it on the stock tune to them, and that I should have explicitly told them that it wasn't the factory tune earlier (I did in 2014, but not during this round of problems). But I really had no clue they saved my tune and were using it. They said the way it works is when a customer brings in a car, they save whatever tune was on the car (most of the time it's OEM) so that if anything goes wrong they have that tune as a backup.

The full blown tune could have caused them to decide that the ECU was faulty, this problem that has made this process so complicated. The motor went in pretty fast when they started working on it, but this ECU swap issue has been taking several weeks if not months and quite a bit of $$$ to figure out.

I want to say they weren't being completely unreasonable, since they were just using what was on my car when I first brought it to them.

Regardless of this, I still need to fix my car.
Even if they flash an actual OEM tune to my stock ECU with ECUtek, the only way I can tell if it will work is if I pay the dealer another $130 to security code my keys to the factory ECU that came with my car that they concluded was junk.
When they first tried to fire up the car with my OEM ECU, it had no communication DTCs, nothing like I've been having with the two other ECUs (U0073, U0155, U1201). It just didn't run quite right, but it ran fine with the MOTEC. I was told about P0011, but I guess it didn't actually throw that code.

My worry is when the dealer security codes my factory ECU that originally had NO "communication with cluster error" DTCs, I'm going to get some. I think this because they couldn't even get a brand new 2013 ECU (that I bought for 700 and paid 130 for the second time for the key programming) to work without the DTCs and suggesting I need a new dash despite the fact that dash works fine.

I'm not sure what to do here. Should I keep trying to get my brand new ECU to work despite the communication DTCs, or should I flash an OEM tune onto my factory ECU that came with my car originally and try to have the dealer program my keys, for the third time, to that ECU? I think the factory ECU with the factory tune will work, but I'm not sure if programming the keys will. Any advice?

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Old 01-25-2016, 08:59 AM   #91
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I was running a FBM base kit @ 10psi on 91 octane for about 15k miles (brz is almost at 29k miles, turbo went in around 14k)... until last night, when the brz decided it would be better off with another window.

I'm posting because I'm wondering what my options are from here on out in terms of cost. I've done some looking around the forums and a lot of people would build the motor for boost, and others say they would just fix it and maybe part out their FI kit and other mods. Others still would take this as an opportunity to do an engine swap? Shop said they can't take a look at the car until the 23rd so I've got some time to decide.

How much am I looking at to replace the block? How much am I looking at to get a built motor? And is it worth it considering so many people have posted about transmission issues with high power output? What about an engine swap? How much money am I looking at for a dope swap? Looking for any and all advice.

Thanks in advance.
not sure if this helps but i plan on getting the crawford shortblock as soon as I can afford it
http://crawfordperformance.com/produ...turbo-brz-frs/
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Old 02-04-2016, 07:17 PM   #92
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Old 02-05-2016, 07:51 PM   #93
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Any updates?
The dealer wants to install a new instrument cluster but won't say if they think it will even work and won't let me return it if it turns out not to be the problem. It doesn't seem like they know what is wrong or how to fix it. Evasive said they are out of ideas and are giving up on me and my car. As of now I will still have to pay all the diagnostic charges and parts that went into trying to fix the ECU problem, in addition to the parts and labor for the motor swap itself, but I will not get a working car. It will be in limp mode with several DTCs. I've been without the car, my daily driver, for over 3 months now. It's been in Evasive and the dealers possession for over 2.

I personally think there's a good chance that the whole reason I had all of these problems was because Evasive loaded a map for a turbo car on my now NA stock motor, when they should have loaded a stock map.

Ed still thinks that the ECU is still faulty based on the timing issues, but I fully expect a full blown basemap designed for the turbo car with a different MAF placement to run crappy on a car with a stock motor.

FRS Justin has offered to help me since he will be in my area soon for something else anyway. He has experience with this kind of thing and has techstream on a laptop and a cable and thinks he can help fix the car.

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Old 02-06-2016, 12:10 AM   #94
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The dealer wants to install a new instrument cluster but won't say if they think it will even work and won't let me return it if it turns out not to be the problem. It doesn't seem like they know what is wrong or how to fix it. Evasive said they are out of ideas and are giving up on me and my car. As of now I will still have to pay all the diagnostic charges and parts that went into trying to fix the ECU problem, in addition to the parts and labor for the motor swap itself, but I will not get a working car. It will be in limp mode with several DTCs. I've been without the car, my daily driver, for over 3 months now. It's been in Evasive and the dealers possession for over 2.

I personally think there's a good chance that the whole reason I had all of these problems was because Evasive loaded a map for a turbo car on my now NA stock motor, when they should have loaded a stock map.

Ed still thinks that the ECU is still faulty based on the timing issues, but I fully expect a full blown basemap designed for the turbo car with a different MAF placement to run crappy on a car with a stock motor.

FRS Justin has offered to help me since he will be in my area soon for something else anyway. He has experience with this kind of thing and has techstream on a laptop and a cable and thinks he can help fix the car.
I will probably be leaving sometime next week and will stop by your place first. Will get this fixed no sweat..
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Old 02-08-2016, 06:46 PM   #95
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So I just got off the phone with Ed and heard some interesting news, both good and bad.

I paid for the dealer to reprogram my keys one last time back to my original ECU, just to see if that would work. They did, and all my communication DTC's went away!

Bad news is the car still has the weird cam retardation issue. Apparently the cam will retard to -29 degrees after the motor warms up, even after Evasive tried flashing a bunch of stock factory roms to the ECU. They tried ZA1JA700C, 900C, A00C, A01C, B00C and B01C. None of them seemed to fix the issue. So I was wrong about the Full Blown Basemap issue.

Ed reminded me that this isn't actually a mechanical problem with the motor, since they tried the Motec with a basemap and it worked fine. Ed tells me there is a very obvious distinct change in exhaust note with the Motec ECU. Both the 2015 ECU I bought at the junkyard and the brand new 2013 ECU fix this mechanical issue, but instead I have communication DTCs.

Still not sure why the dealer couldn't fix them on the new ECU's, should just be a simple ECU swap with no problems. However, they couldn't, so I have to get the car towed home for Evasive and pay them for their work. It kinda sucks getting back a broken car, but there doesn't seem to be other options at this point working with Evasive.
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Old 02-08-2016, 06:50 PM   #96
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So I just got off the phone with Ed and heard some interesting news, both good and bad.

I paid for the dealer to reprogram my keys one last time back to my original ECU, just to see if that would work. They did, and all my communication DTC's went away!

Bad news is the car still has the weird cam retardation issue. Apparently the cam will retard to -29 degrees after the motor warms up, even after Evasive tried flashing a bunch of stock factory roms to the ECU. They tried ZA1JA700C, 900C, A00C, A01C, B00C and B01C. None of them seemed to fix the issue.

Ed reminded me that this isn't actually a mechanical problem with the motor, since they tried the Motec with a basemap and it worked fine. Ed tells me there is a very obvious distinct change in exhaust note with the Motec ECU. Both the 2015 ECU I bought at the junkyard and the brand new 2013 ECU fix this mechanical issue, but instead I have communication DTCs.

Still not sure why the dealer couldn't fix them on the new ECU's, should just be a simple ECU swap with no problems. However, they couldn't, so I have to get the car towed home for Evasive and pay them for their work. It kinda sucks getting back a broken car, but there doesn't seem to be other options at this point working with Evasive.

So you basically now have the cam issue w no communication codes? What's the next course of action ?


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Old 02-08-2016, 08:47 PM   #97
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So you basically now have the cam issue w no communication codes? What's the next course of action ?


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Replace ECM the correct way to eliminate com failure and load the correct mapping.


You have to follow the manual to the letter, if the procedure is not followed and a step is missed or not done in the right sequence your going to be in a world of hurt buying new components. What I don't know is if I can reverse the damage from not following the procedure. My fingers are crossed and updates to follow I should be out there soon, just trying to get my schedule to line up.
The days of just swapping components are over, It amazes me how some think this car is just like their daddies Oldsmobile. It is simply amazing how complex this car is electronically for the price tag. Usually this type of system is in more high end autos.
Maybe I'm just getting old lol
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Old 02-08-2016, 08:55 PM   #98
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Replace ECM the correct way to eliminate com failure and load the correct mapping.


You have to follow the manual to the letter, if the procedure is not followed and a step is missed or not done in the right sequence your going to be in a world of hurt buying new components. What I don't know is if I can reverse the damage from not following the procedure. My fingers are crossed and updates to follow I should be out there soon, just trying to get my schedule to line up.
The days of just swapping components are over, It amazes me how some think this car is just like their daddies Oldsmobile. It is simply amazing how complex this car is electronically for the price tag. Usually this type of system is in more high end autos.
Maybe I'm just getting old lol
This is something i am interested to know as well, the security on these car is a real pain
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