01-29-2016, 01:59 PM | #1 |
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SRT4 engine swap
Just playing with idea and knowing very well that this would not be an easy swap. This is the neon motor not the caliber motor. I currently have an SRT4 its an ACR edition so I could sell the shell for a pretty penny without the motor. I just rebuilt the motor and trans so I know both are solid. The car puts 291 whp and 317 wtq. These numbers are stock turbo with a full exhaust and my tuner did a really good job. I have plenty of experience with car and motors but not very much with transmissions or conversions. With this being a fwd motor how hard would this be to convert to rwd? I would assume that rotating it the that the trans points to the rear would be the first option. Thoughts? I know that the SRT4 motors can be running 500whp on stock internal and still be pretty reliable. This swap would really just for power and the uniqueness of it and I don't believe the motor is much lighter if any than the FA20.
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01-29-2016, 02:03 PM | #2 |
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http://www.stlsrt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=10176
This is the only RWD SRT swap I have seen. I had a CSRT4 for a while as my daily and it was a blast. I don't think this would be a good swap for various reasons, but I did always want to build a kit car cobra with an SRT4 motor just to see the looks and to upset people when they saw the motor. |
01-29-2016, 02:17 PM | #3 | |
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01-29-2016, 02:22 PM | #4 |
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your biggest concern would be making a bell housing adapter for whatever transmission you chose to go with. Once you tackle that all the wiring, motor mounts and various other little things you'll need to modify to make it fit should seem like cake.
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01-29-2016, 02:22 PM | #5 |
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+1 for not 2J, LS, RB.
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01-29-2016, 02:30 PM | #6 | ||
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yes
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Always gotta be unique a lot of people hate on the SRT4 but must will still agree that's its a great motor. |
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01-29-2016, 02:43 PM | #7 |
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I like the FA20 and would never swap to another 4 cylinder.
But... if you've got a stock FA20 in your car, but a fully built 4 banger sitting around, I can see it being worth it. My main concern with engine swaps is always balance and center of gravity. It's hard to beat the FA20.
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01-29-2016, 02:45 PM | #8 | |
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01-29-2016, 02:56 PM | #9 | |
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01-29-2016, 03:01 PM | #10 |
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Yeah, close enough for sure.
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01-29-2016, 03:37 PM | #11 |
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where are you at that the srt-4 shell sells for a pretty penny?
The swap would not be worth it at all. Unique, sure. But not worth the massive hassel. Hell, a regular swap is still TONS of work, and thats with people who have already paved the road with some info/guides. I used to own an srt, btw. |
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01-29-2016, 04:01 PM | #12 |
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That recipe does not do a thing for me.
But it's your car, your time and your money, so please do keep us posted on how it goes. I am impressed by anyone who has the skills to do a clean swap regardless of the mix. |
01-29-2016, 05:07 PM | #13 | |
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Skip to the "What's So Wrong With The Subaru FA20 Boxer Engine?": http://www.vorshlag.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8275 I personally wouldn't ever swap a V8 into this car, I think the FA20 is perfectly suited for this application. Especially since I don't ever really plan to mod the engine for power. For reliability? Yes. I think if anything, it seemed like maybe the engineers could have improved the weight distribution by moving the engine rearward and used a shorter bell housing, but perhaps the bean counters intervened. I could see an argument for change in that area, but not swapping the engine entirely. BUT. Some people want MOAR POWER. And that's totally legit. It's probably impossible to get a similarly low CoG with another engine (except maybe with another horizontally opposed powerplant). But if you're willing to look past that, I don't see why an SRT mill or similar wouldn't be eye-wateringly fun in this chassis. I'm personally waiting for someone to swap in a frankenstein Honda K24 into a Twin. K24 block, K20 head, TVS1320 positive displacement blower with A/W chargecooling, figure out a way to keep the gears from eating themselves and I'm sure you'd have a reliable track-ready weapon on your hands. Even though the CoG would be higher, you'd likely lose some weight in the process and gain a BUNCH of power and torque. Hell, even if you decided on an all-motor build, you'd get much more torque with the extra displacement not to mention a much more reliable motor with better fuel economy without all the direct injection complication. Of course, you'd probably have a nightmare of a wiring job awaiting you to integrate the gauges and various sub-systems.
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02-01-2016, 09:20 AM | #14 | |
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