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Old 01-13-2016, 11:32 AM   #15
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Wouldn't the 16mm bolt for the top hole simply not fit in the bottom and the 14mm bolt be noticeably sloppy in the top?

I remember my bolt (from Whiteline) was tough to get through the top larger hole, I don't think it would fit in the lower hole at all.
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Old 01-13-2016, 11:33 AM   #16
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Wouldn't the 16mm bolt for the top hole simply not fit in the bottom and the 14mm bolt be noticeably sloppy in the top?

I remember my bolt (from Whiteline) was tough to get through the top larger hole, I don't think it would fit in the lower hole at all.
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Old 01-13-2016, 11:57 AM   #17
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thats where they are meant to go, though in theory you could have a different size and they go in the upper hole. You could put a smaller eccentric bolt in the upper hole but you run a greater risk of it slipping.

But the SPC bolt sold for our cars is 14mm and goes in the bottom hole. A 16mm bolt is needed for the top
The whiteline bolt is 16 mm. Here is what their installation instructions says:

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When fitting in upper strut clevis hole (recommended);
....
When fitting in lower strut clevis hole(RACE USE ONLY);
....
Does it mean the recommended position (upper) is the one that has the least risk of slipping for the 16 mm bolt?
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:20 PM   #18
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Using a Whiteline bolt in the bottom hole gives less adjustment than the top, but you can run them in both (which is why they have the race use only warning) to get more camber adjustment.
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Old 01-13-2016, 02:44 PM   #19
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Thanks @wparsons,
I am installing camber adjustable top mounts too, so for me it's not a matter of getting the most of them, but to make the coarse adjustment at the bolt and the fine tuning at the top mounts. My goal camber is -2.7 degs front and -2 degs rear.

From your explanation I guess I should use the upper hole as recommended? Max it out, and let the alignment shop do the rest at the top mounts?
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Old 01-13-2016, 02:54 PM   #20
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Max it out, and let the alignment shop do the rest at the top mounts?
The shop should be capable of adjusting the bolts, I'd have them adjust the bolts so it's even left to right so that the adjustments on the camber plates are the same, if you just wing it on the bolts having equal camber L/R may be adjusted to different settings on the top mounts (i.e. left would be at notch #4 and right on notch #5).
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Old 01-13-2016, 03:10 PM   #21
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The whiteline bolt is 16 mm. Here is what their installation instructions says:



Does it mean the recommended position (upper) is the one that has the least risk of slipping for the 16 mm bolt?
Interesting. I don't think a 16mm bolt would fit in the bottom slot. There was a lot of confusion with these bolts when they came out (and still seems to be I guess). But if it is 16mm the top hole should be the correct one.
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Old 01-14-2016, 02:20 PM   #22
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Quote:
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Thanks @wparsons,
I am installing camber adjustable top mounts too, so for me it's not a matter of getting the most of them, but to make the coarse adjustment at the bolt and the fine tuning at the top mounts. My goal camber is -2.7 degs front and -2 degs rear.

From your explanation I guess I should use the upper hole as recommended? Max it out, and let the alignment shop do the rest at the top mounts?
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Originally Posted by strat61caster View Post
The shop should be capable of adjusting the bolts, I'd have them adjust the bolts so it's even left to right so that the adjustments on the camber plates are the same, if you just wing it on the bolts having equal camber L/R may be adjusted to different settings on the top mounts (i.e. left would be at notch #4 and right on notch #5).
All depends on how OCD you are about the measurement on the camber plates being equal left to right.

Ideally (from a geometry standpoint) you want to add as much camber as you have clearance for at the knuckle, then add more at the upper mount.

If you're talking about 0.1 to 0.2 of a degree, then just make them even at the knuckle then add the rest at the camber plate, if it's a 0.5* difference then I'd max out both knuckles and even out with the camber plate.
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