How to use the OEM amp Wiring

[CybexBRZ]

Doesn't seem to work to repurpose the wires.

I'll explain what I did.

Note: The front speakers wires from the radio harness aren't the same color of the oem amp harness. My radio harness has correct color white, grey, green purple wires. (Pioneer HU Canada model)

I tough the front output wires from HU was split in 2 : one way to the dash speakers and one way to the oem but something seems to block signal coming from the back...

1. I unpin the white and grey wires of front speakers output from the HU Harness.

2. Test sound, no more sound from either dash or door speakers so I assume that theses wires are the same source for dash and oem amp input.

3. Plug my 4channel amp output to the (green/purple) wire from custom connector (like in this thread) and no sound

Note: amp is ok, plugged a speaker right on the wire and it play but when plug to the harness from the back doesnt go to the front speakers...

How is it possible that it doesn't work?

Any idea what is blocking and if there is a way to fix this?

Thank for the help


Edited: Hint: I think maybe it could have something to do with the dash speakers wires... there is a 4 pin connector for the tweeter and a second 2 pin connector for the 3.5" mid... right now I used the 2 pin connector and didn't use the 4 pins... maybe the 4 pins doesn't transfer the current to the 2 pins connectors since it is not plugged.... ? I'll have to verify with multimeter... any others idea?

[B-R-Z]

Idk, I would assume it's a straight shot but I've never personally done it. I would use the connectivity tester on a dmm and find where each wire ends up front. I don't see what could/would be in the middle blocking the connection, besides maybe a capacitor or coil for xover.

[The Feds]

great information

[CybexBRZ]

Originally Posted by B-R-Z

Idk, I would assume it's a straight shot but I've never personally done it. I would use the connectivity tester on a dmm and find where each wire ends up front. I don't see what could/would be in the middle blocking the connection, besides maybe a capacitor or coil for xover.

I used the multimeter on the both dash connector and no current is going there.

The xover are not there anymore, both on each side as been remove.
They were right beside the oem speakers.

next time I'll just plug a temporary wires directly from amp to the unpin front speakers wires at the back of the HU, this should work. Then I think I'll just run wires properly to the back of the HU, it will take less time and figure out what's going on with those wires from the oemn amp.

For the doors speakers it works fine at least.

[B-R-Z]

@CybexBRZ

The OEM amp only powers the door speakers, the HU powers the rear and dash speakers directly. I'm not sure if you knew this or not; I'm sorry I didn't point this out in my first response to your question.

The HU sends a high-level output signal to the OEM amp, the amp then sends amplified signal up to the door speakers. If you're not using the rear speakers you could use those wires as a means of getting 2 amplified channels to the front without having to run wire. I have 75 watts going to each of the dash and door speakers and I don't even notice that I no longer have rear speakers. It is loud.

I ran 12AWG for everything and while it was a little annoying, it wasn't that bad.

[CybexBRZ]

Originally Posted by B-R-Z

@CybexBRZ

The OEM amp only powers the door speakers, the HU powers the rear and dash speakers directly. I'm not sure if you knew this or not; I'm sorry I didn't point this out in my first response to your question.
The HU sends a high-level output signal to the OEM amp, the amp then sends amplified signal up to the door speakers.

Yes, I already known this.

Originally Posted by B-R-Z

@CybexBRZ

If you're not using the rear speakers you could use those wires as a means of getting 2 amplified channels to the front without having to run wire. I have 75 watts going to each of the dash and door speakers and I don't even notice that I no longer have rear speakers. It is loud.

Oh I didn't though about that... I was so focus of using the wires of the amp harsness it is an second option to my problem.

I'm using the rear speaker but I have wires running directly to them from an amp so I can still use the oem wires to send signal to the back of HU and redirect it to the front dash speaker.

Thanks

[v12twinturbo]

Hey guys anybody ever figure out a fix for the static issues?

I just did the alpine install with the repinned plugs just like random hero and op. Same static issue, regarless of volume I have the static

HELP

[Chimera]

no longer running the OEM speakers, but am still running the amp on speaker level from the OEM harness like this thread has, my static was cured by turning the gain to 0.

TBH on speaker level you really don't need to use the gain at all.

Originally Posted by v12twinturbo

Hey guys anybody ever figure out a fix for the static issues?

I just did the alpine install with the repinned plugs just like random hero and op. Same static issue, regarless of volume I have the static

HELP

[v12twinturbo]

Didn't mess with my settings yet, I'm going to try that tomorrow and then the ground and if that doesn't work idk. I'm using aftermarket pioneer speakers

[fisher445]

so i installed a pioneer app 4 radio, and a sub and amp. i have everything working great except for the door speakers, because they're powered by the little amp in the back, and there isnt a plug in the back of the new HU to get them to work obviously. so i think ive seen a couple people see re pin it or something, but is there anyway to get it to work? if someone can PM me how or reply on here that would be great, thanks!

[Chimera]

The stock amp runs from speaker level inputs. If you have the other speakers running from the speaker levels, and not rcas it should work. Check fuse in drivers side fuse box, and make sure that amps plugged in.

[unlimited86]

I am a total beginner when it comes to audio, just got a 10" sub and I am looking to follow this thread to install an amp and the sub, looking to keep this simple and thinking about getting the Alpine KTP-445U, but my question is, will that be enough to power the sub or do I need something else. Trying to find one that will fit in the OEM location. Thanks

[Hyper4mance2k]

Originally Posted by unlimited86

I am a total beginner when it comes to audio, just got a 10" sub and I am looking to follow this thread to install an amp and the sub, looking to keep this simple and thinking about getting the Alpine KTP-445U, but my question is, will that be enough to power the sub or do I need something else. Trying to find one that will fit in the OEM location. Thanks

Probably not enough amperage to supply the demands of a halfway decent sub. You need an amplifier that can draw enough voltage quickly. A 15-amp amplifier just wont cut it. Alpine has a mono version of the amplifier mentioned in this thread: Alpine KTP-190U. That's about the only option using the factory wiring to power a sub, and as you can see it's only 30 watts RMS at 4 ohms...

[SubieNubie]

Well I finally got around to actually installing this into my car. I have an AudioConrol LC2i and Alpine KTP-445U in two channel mode powering JBL MS62c components up front.

Anyone getting an audible sound for about a second upon start up? If I turn all the gains down, I don't get it, but nothing is audible until half way on the HeadUnit volume control. Below is my wiring layout

Also has anyone had any success with eliminating or improving the static?

Wiring Diagram.pdf