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Old 11-25-2015, 09:23 AM   #15
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WPC treatment of all the gears and rear diff good for 1-3% power increase from loss.
Additionally heat and friction wear items faster, break down gear lube ect.

Part of the plan for my build
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Old 11-25-2015, 09:32 AM   #16
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FRSW12: > these TWS T66-F of 16" size - just 10.63lbs 4.82kg.
As for 17" ..
AG Forged SMK Monoblock AG3-SMK26 17x7.5 9.5lbs 4.3kg
Velox PG-Rev10 17x7 11.5lbs 5.2kg
Watanabe F8 Magnesium 17x7 11.5lbs 5.2kg
OZ Forgiata 17x7.5 13.2lbs 5.99kg
J's Racing PR 6 17x7.5 13.2lbs 5.99kg
Tom's Racing EP-02 +50 17x7 13.2lbs 5.99kg
RAC Monolites RS110 17x8 13.3lbs 6.03kg
Buddy Club P1 Racing QF 17x8 13.6lbs 6.17kg
> Volk TE37 SL - should be lighter then CE28N
Volk CE28N 17x7.5 13.8lbs 6.26kg or 12.32lbs 5.58kg?
Racing Hart CP-035R 17x8 13.6lbs 6.17kg
Toybox48 Hethel 17x8 13.7lbs 6.4kg
Tehnicraft T6 +43 17x8 13.8lbs 6.26kg
Velox PG-5S +42 17x7 13.8lbs? 6.26kg
TWS T66-F 17x8 13.93lbs 6.32kg
> Kosei K4R +50 Cast 17x7 14.0lbs 6.35kg
Motegi MR221 Traklite 1.0 Cast 17x7 14.0lbs 6.35kg
SSR Type-C +38 Cast 17x8 14.3lbs 6.49kg
Velox VX-6R +42 17x7 14.5lbs 6.58kg
Kosei K1 TS +50 Cast 17x7 14.6lbs 6.62kg
Enkei RPF1 +42 Cast 17x7 14.8lbs 6.71kg
.. most of forged lighter ones are discontinued. But at least Volk TE37 SL & CE28N you should still be able to buy. Or check from tirerack Kosei K4R. Yes, they are cast, but you can buy 3 sets of those Kosei-s for price of 1 forged set and they weight only very slightly (300gr) more then TWS T66F 17x8.
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Old 11-25-2015, 01:30 PM   #17
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I just purchased an aluminum driveshaft, it's pretty fun.
Slight gear-y noise, kinda reminds me of a supercharger, but alot more quiet.
I can definitely feel the improved throttle response.
Carbon fiber one is 2x the price for 1 pound less. Dumbbb.
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Old 11-25-2015, 01:46 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TorqueMan777 View Post
None of the things you mentioned actually reduce the drivetrain losses. They only reduce drivetrain inertia. Which is good, you'll get a performance benefit from it. But to actually decrease drivetrain loss is much more difficult, and kind of tricky. You're looking for ways to decrease friction in the engine block between the rods, pistons, cylinder walls, transmission gears, rear end gears, etc. Aside from using different viscosity oils, you would have to be willing to rebuild the whole engine and drivetrain. Your drivetrain losses are pretty much set from the factory.
he's deleting a joint in the drive shaft; this is reducing a drivetrain loss..
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Old 11-25-2015, 01:47 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by churchx View Post
FRSW12: > these TWS T66-F of 16" size - just 10.63lbs 4.82kg.
As for 17" ..
AG Forged SMK Monoblock AG3-SMK26 17x7.5 9.5lbs 4.3kg
Velox PG-Rev10 17x7 11.5lbs 5.2kg
Watanabe F8 Magnesium 17x7 11.5lbs 5.2kg
OZ Forgiata 17x7.5 13.2lbs 5.99kg
J's Racing PR 6 17x7.5 13.2lbs 5.99kg
Tom's Racing EP-02 +50 17x7 13.2lbs 5.99kg
RAC Monolites RS110 17x8 13.3lbs 6.03kg
Buddy Club P1 Racing QF 17x8 13.6lbs 6.17kg
> Volk TE37 SL - should be lighter then CE28N
Volk CE28N 17x7.5 13.8lbs 6.26kg or 12.32lbs 5.58kg?
Racing Hart CP-035R 17x8 13.6lbs 6.17kg
Toybox48 Hethel 17x8 13.7lbs 6.4kg
Tehnicraft T6 +43 17x8 13.8lbs 6.26kg
Velox PG-5S +42 17x7 13.8lbs? 6.26kg
TWS T66-F 17x8 13.93lbs 6.32kg
> Kosei K4R +50 Cast 17x7 14.0lbs 6.35kg
Motegi MR221 Traklite 1.0 Cast 17x7 14.0lbs 6.35kg
SSR Type-C +38 Cast 17x8 14.3lbs 6.49kg
Velox VX-6R +42 17x7 14.5lbs 6.58kg
Kosei K1 TS +50 Cast 17x7 14.6lbs 6.62kg
Enkei RPF1 +42 Cast 17x7 14.8lbs 6.71kg
.. most of forged lighter ones are discontinued. But at least Volk TE37 SL & CE28N you should still be able to buy. Or check from tirerack Kosei K4R. Yes, they are cast, but you can buy 3 sets of those Kosei-s for price of 1 forged set and they weight only very slightly (300gr) more then TWS T66F 17x8.
The TWS 17x8 is the lightest 17x8 you can get. The CE28 is close, and the TE37 is much heavier.
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Old 11-25-2015, 04:19 PM   #20
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nobody said flywheel?
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Old 11-25-2015, 04:21 PM   #21
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Lose the entire stock drivetrain. Start over.

Wait, just kidding. The differential is fine. You can keep that.

Throw the rest out.
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Old 11-25-2015, 06:45 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TorqueMan777 View Post
None of the things you mentioned actually reduce the drivetrain losses. They only reduce drivetrain inertia. Which is good, you'll get a performance benefit from it. But to actually decrease drivetrain loss is much more difficult, and kind of tricky. You're looking for ways to decrease friction in the engine block between the rods, pistons, cylinder walls, transmission gears, rear end gears, etc. Aside from using different viscosity oils, you would have to be willing to rebuild the whole engine and drivetrain. Your drivetrain losses are pretty much set from the factory.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FRSW12 View Post
I think drivetrain losses is not the accurate word here(I sucks at physics), what I meant was to reduce the drivetrain inertia and therefore improve the WHP and responsiveness because of less rotational mass....fail on my part
Essentially everytime you convert the mechanical energy from one system (i.e. the engine) to another (the input shaft on the transmission) you loose energy in the forms of heat, friction and other things. To reduce this or even change this, you would need to basically redesign the drive train.
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:20 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottman View Post
I just purchased an aluminum driveshaft, it's pretty fun.
Slight gear-y noise, kinda reminds me of a supercharger, but alot more quiet.
I can definitely feel the improved throttle response.
Carbon fiber one is 2x the price for 1 pound less. Dumbbb.
Can feel better throttle response... even less weight is dumb?
Because of the price?
PS some short shifters do not clear the aluminum shaft because the diameter is larger than stock
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Old 11-25-2015, 09:17 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Yoniyama View Post
Low-friction wheel bearing.

SKF is now OEM supplier for Mazda2 and Honda Civic with low friction wheel bearing, see:

http://www.bearing-news.com/the-new-...s-co2-savings/

I have not see any low-friction wheel bearing mod available specifically for FT86, but there are racing shops that offer to install low-friction ceramic balls to fit any OEM wheel bearing.

Light-weight lug nut. OEM lug nuts weigh about 60g each (if I remember correctly), a set of ultra-light lug nuts, at 25g each, will save about 175g (about 6 oz) of rotational and unsprung mass per wheel.

One last item: a friction modifier, eg CERATEC by Liqui Moly. I know, it sounds like snake oil. Anyway, it is cheap and should not do any damage. I actually tried it myself, and it seems to work. I did not take a pre- and post mod dyno comparison, but fuel consumption did improve (under similar driving condition), so I conclude this snake oil works (since there is no change in all other variables).

In principle, these (fairly inexpensive) items should help reduce power loss in the drivetrain.
It looks like the active ingredient is boron nitride, which I have heard of as a high temperature lubricant available as an aerosol spray like "Slide hi-temp 1800 Mold release" or "ZYP Boron Nitride Mold Release".
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Old 11-25-2015, 10:23 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
he's deleting a joint in the drive shaft; this is reducing a drivetrain loss..
I stand corrected. I forgot the driveshaft is 2 piece.
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Old 11-26-2015, 12:32 AM   #26
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CSG Mike: You are sure about TE37 SL being heavier then CE28?
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Old 11-26-2015, 01:58 AM   #27
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Others are more expert then me, but my basic understanding is anything that moves before the tires is taking energy. Get that torque to the wheels!

So pistons, bearings, gears, clutches, flywheels, driveshafts, rear-ends, CV-joints, axles all require power to rotate. All drivetrain to chassis mounts also absorb energy and they require it to hold everything in place.

Reducing power loss through transfer = more power

Simple and cheapest solution is attack the chassis first. So in a perfect world (where NHV doesn't matter) you could make all flexible mounts as stiff as possible.

Solid motor mounts
Solid tranny mount
Single piece driveshaft
Solid rear-end bushings
Solid rear subframe bushings

This set-up it would probably rattle your teeth out but it would reduce a lot of power-transfer loss for the drivetrain.

Horsepower turns heads, torque wins races
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Old 11-26-2015, 02:00 AM   #28
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My dream set of wheels - BBS RF 17x7.5 +48

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12621

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Wheel...+Black+Painted

$515 USD a wheel on tirerack - 14.3lbs (Forged)

You can fit the existing 215's on them and, once you use up their tread, go to 225. Both will comfortably fit on that rim and its design with thin spokes makes it look like an 18" without being one. Also reading through the thread you will see they clear Brembo's.
I hate you. I now want those wheels and they cost $2k...I'm not buying, but maybe one day
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