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| Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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#29 |
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Alexandrino_Auto
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I hate to fan the flames, but everyone is right: the injen intake doesn't make any more power than stock.
![]() ![]() Oh my bad, it's exactly the opposite of what everyone is saying.
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#30 | |
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Have a look at the AFR curves generally stock cars run rich which costs some power, stock intake is running down into the 10 AFR range (due safety for people with crap fuels) . wack on your intake and it generally causes the car to run leaner, not because the intake flows any better but because it alters the maf scaling hence the engine runs leaner . The MAf only samples the air flow it does not measure the total air flow. Bingo you just made some HP. Have a look at the graphs where the AFR is leaner you making more power. This works fine when yur fuel is good like in USA, but do it in Australia or south Africa and your going to get a ship load of knock as running on the rich side buys you some knock resistance Unfortunate thing is you could have made almost the same HP by adjusting the tune on the stock intake to make the engine run at around 12 AFR. Now tuners fix up the AFR to get more power ,as well as tweak cams ignition timing ect, but once your tuned you will find that the gains from your intake are not cumulative. also if the intake throws of the maf reading far enough you end up with other issues like hesitation and bogging ect. |
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#31 |
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steve99,
Keep in mind some people do live in the USA and only get USA quality gas, so thats not an issue for me and probably not an issue for a lot of other users on here. I also dont have a tune, and am not looking to get one done anytime soon due to the cost in my area. Many people are stating that this intake sucks, but are going off of what others are saying based upon the older design. Im not saying that the new one is necessarily any better, but if they did change the design, and they definitely did, then I think its only fair that you or someone else does another "test" and verifies if the new design had any effect at all compared to what the first revision did. TL;DR Its a new Injen air intake. Performance claims or lack thereof of an old design aren't fair or accurate. Re-test with the new design and update us here. |
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#32 | |
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#33 | |
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#34 |
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I'm in the U.S. however I can't find a dyno page that doesn't show gains from this intake. Not saying they aren't out there, I just haven't seen it yet.
My car was never touched by a tuner, just ots maps. My nearest tuner wouldn't even be in the same state, one that's worth a damn anyway. Never experience any bogging, cel's or hesitation. However I have read the old intake doing that to a lot of people. For those that have access to a tuner, go with a different intake or stay with stock. But if you're limited to OFT like me, maybe it's not such a bad setup like everyone has had their mind set on. The injen was great but at the end of the day I'd go grimmspeed. They involve themselves in the 86 community which says a lot and have an intake with proven results all over.
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#35 | |
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#36 |
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So I recently bought a used Injen intake with the same new ventless cover as OP. While initially it felt like there was a boost in throttle response and power over stock, I quickly noticed the exact opposite after a bit of spirited driving on a hot day (90°F). However, the dyno does not lie; and there are countless dyno printouts that mostly confirm the gains claimed by Injen.
If you exclude the effects of heat transfer from the engine to the intake air, (which is greatly reduced on the dyno over the street/track due to an open hood and large external fan) the Injen should definitely add power over the stock intake. It has a larger, more permeable filter and a larger diameter, smoother, incompressible inlet pipe. But in real life, heat gets trapped under the hood as the engine gets hot. The Injen airbox does not seal around the snorkel like the stock intake does, nor does it seal around the inlet pipe, despite having a rubber gasket. Since it's made of two pieces of bent aluminum with no gaskets around the lid or vertical edges, it doesn't even seal itself! In addition, anyone who's touched the aluminum inlet pipe after driving the car, knows that it gets VERY hot. Since aluminum is an excellent conductor of heat, the hot inlet pipe further increases the the temperature of the air going into the throttle due to the large amount of convective heat transfer that occurs at high flow rates. The lower density of the hotter air going into the throttle cancels or greatly reduces any gains that were created from increased flow on the dyno. I felt that removing the vents on the airbox lid was a cop-out of an update by Injen, that only made the intake's problems less noticeable, without actually fixing them at all. That being said, I got the Injen for a great price and I didn't want to spend $150-200 more on an intake that relocates the filter or has a proper seal around the snorkel. I also didn't want to go back to the factory airbox since the Injen intake definitely improves flow rate into the engine and also sounds quite nice. My solution was to spend about $50 and 2 hours on a Saturday doing a proper update to the intake so that the airbox/inlet pipe were properly sealed and insulated. I'm providing a detailed description of my modifications below for any other Injen intake owners who want to see their dyno gains translate to actual street/track gains. Also I don't claim to be an expert on cars or intakes and I can't guarantee doing this will improve your intake's performance, however I am a performance engineer at a power company so I know a bit about heat transfer and fluid dynamics. I can also confirm that my throttle response is a whole lot better than it was before during spirited driving and on hot days. DIY Injen Intake Upgrade I used the following items which can be found at a local hardware store/Amazon: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Flex-Drain-ADP53102-Downspout-Adaptor-Landscaping/dp/B002TN1NMK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438105413&sr=8-1&keywords=gutter+connector"][/ame][ame="http://www.amazon.com/AMERIMAX-PRODUCTS-27209-5-Inch-Joint/dp/B000H5PYBI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1438117054&sr=8-3&keywords=aluminum+slip+joint"]An Aluminum Slip Joint[/ame] $5 (You could also just cut the mouthpiece off the stock airbox with a dremel) [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-13575-Adhesive-Backed-Barrier/dp/B00029KC2K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438105560&sr=8-1&keywords=heat+shield"]Adhesive Heat Shielding Sheet[/ame] $18 or [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Heatshield-Products-340020-Thermaflect-Shield/dp/B000QFN3DU/ref=sr_1_1?&ie=UTF8&qid=1438105674&sr=8-1&keywords=heat+shield+tape"]Tape[/ame] $16 (If you want to wrap the airbox and the inlet tube, you'll need both.) [ame="http://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-3381-Silver/dp/B00A7I5L86/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438105819&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+aluminum+tape"]3M Foil Tape[/ame] $12 1. I used an aluminum gutter connector to create a mouthpiece that sealed around the snorkel. The aluminum bends easily by hand and with the use of some pliers I got it to form a good seal around the snorkel. The snorkel already has a foam gasket so just make sure the aluminum connector fits tightly. In order to connect the mouthpiece to the Injen airbox, I removed the lid which comes right off after removing the 5 hex screws. I then cut/bent the other end of the mouthpiece so that it created a flange. 2. I covered the bottom and sides of the airbox with heat shielding further insulate it from the engine and used a few layers of foil tape on all of the open edges and holes to ensure they were sealed. 3. I then removed the hose clamp that sealed the filter to the inlet pipe and pushed the rubber end of the filter through the hole in the airbox until it created a proper seal with the rubber gasket. This part was tricky as you need to make sure that just enough of the aluminum inlet pipe remains inside the airbox so that you can reapply the hose clamp to seal the filter around the pipe. (Note: the rubber gasket was not big enough to seal completely around the rubber end of the filter and left a small gap, however this can be sealed with tape.) 4. I then placed the airbox (lid off) in the engine bay and make sure everything fit properly with the airbox bolted down. I then proceeded to seal the flanged end of the mouthpiece to the inside of the airbox by bending it to conform to the box walls and sealing it with foil tape. 5. I put the airbox lid back on and applied a layer of foil tape around the edges to seal it to the rest of the box and several layers of tape to seal it to the snorkel mouthpiece. I then punctured the foil at the screwholes, reapplied, and tightened the screws so that lid was secure and airtight. 6. At this point I had good seals around the inlet pipe, airbox, and snorkel. I then tightened the hose clamps around the silicone adapter that seals the inlet pipe to the throttle body. If you like the way the polished aluminum looks under the hood you can stop here and will still likely notice some improvement due to the snorkel seal. 7. I went a bit further and used the 20' roll of heatshield tape to insulate the inlet pipe. Make sure to wipe off the inlet pipe so the adhesive sticks better. I cut the tape into strips that were long enough to go a little more than once around the pipe. I overlapped half of the previous strip so that the pipe was insulated by two layers for its length. It was a bit more challenging to keep the tape flush to the pipe without creating air pockets around the elbow and near the throttle body where the pipe changes diameter but this was solved by removing any bunched tape, cutting it to a shorter length and reapplying it. Sorry for not including pics of each step since I didn't decide to write this until after I had done it but here are a few pics of the finished product: |
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#37 |
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Alexandrino_Auto
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Now that I'm leaving California, I regret selling mine.
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#38 | |
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#39 |
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You might not be able to, I did. Tested it on stock tune, oft 93 tune with and without the intake. It was easily noticeable.
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#40 | |
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#41 | |
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#42 |
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Nevermind
Last edited by guybo; 12-31-2016 at 11:22 PM. |
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