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#2717 | |
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- Andy |
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#2718 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: S2000 CR
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If you want the current "bang for the buck", the Flex Z is my current go-to. It's $870 MSRP, and includes camber plates, AND rides well, and performs above its price point, even disregarding that it includes camber plates. Pair this with the rear LCA, and you'll have a pretty solid entry level setup. If you're tracking the car, you'll want to consider the SPL RLCA. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to CSG Mike For This Useful Post: | Clipdat (09-16-2015) |
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#2719 |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Drives: '13 FRS - STX
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I am also surprised by CSG's curt reply. However you guys are not asking anything that hasn't been asked before or discussed for hundreds of pages, I wouldn't take the posts today as final answers, go get a second opinion through your own research and evaluate your priorities to come up with a more accurate solution.
@yamsta I'm no expert but you're experiencing a lot more roll and I think CSG is correct in attributing it to more grip, however I would investigate some aftermarket sway bars as a first step before dropping $1k-$6k on coilovers. They won't be a wholesale replacement but since you're driving your car casually for fun it may get you what you're looking for. Another cost effective solution maybe the spring kits available although they do have their drawbacks, I know you say you don't want to lower the car but it may be the best compromise for what you want. Precision will only come from stiffening everything up, removing the slop at the cost of NVH (bushings and stiff springs/coilovers) which I doubt you want to do. I'd have the alignment checked on the car, zero toe in the front (depending on what you had before) may give the car a little nudge in the responsiveness, some toe-out up front will make the front end very responsive but may be tiring for a DD and a minor increase in tire wear. Zero toe rear also helps the car rotate more readily but I found it darty on the freeway (others disagree) and have put a little toe-in to stabilize it. Lots of variables are in play here |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to strat61caster For This Useful Post: | yamsta (09-23-2015) |
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#2720 | ||
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Proud of BOXER
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Thanks. I'll look into the Flex Zs and also the difference between the SPC and SPL LCAs!
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Clipdat For This Useful Post: | CSG Mike (09-16-2015) |
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#2721 |
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That Guy
Join Date: Dec 2011
Drives: 2013 asphalt FRS MT
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Depending on how much camber adjustment you need, you can get a half degree plus or minus from a set of 12mm camber bolts installed in the place of the rear inner lower control arm bolts.
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#2722 | |
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I think $2200 gets you the whole package including rear mounts and camber plates. I bought mine used. 375/425 rates (still on stock sways) so it's a bit easy to rotate. At some point I'll probably step up to ASTs with DDP option or RCE Tarmac 2s. |
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#2723 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
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I'm in the UK so I'm going to assume that your canyon roads are probably like our B roads. I can whole heartedly recommend the Tein Flex A's with a set of uprated adjustable anti roll bars and geometry set up. - in the UK at least the Teins are about a third of the price of ohlins.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to DeaconRoc For This Useful Post: | Clipdat (09-17-2015) |
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#2724 |
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From me it looks like most are targeting tarmac daily driving or tarmac track racing suspension setups. I wonder what might be CSG/RCE views on advisable suspension tuning and/or aftermarket parts selection for gravel roads at reasonable budget (that is no-no for completely custom suspension like for eg. Nameless rally car
)?Am i right in my guess that for those preferred no clearance drop or even extra shocks travel and maybe softer springs? What coilovers might fit the bill for example? Any comments on these (@ forum. Low price makes me cautious on quality though), or Cusco something? |
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#2725 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Drives: 2016 FRS
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I've heard good things about the KW V3s, but not sure if that setup would really be worth it, since I am not going to spend a lot of time AutoXing or Tracking the car (at least not yet). Right now, I am more concerned with cost, reliability, and comfort. |
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#2726 | |
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![]() How much lower do you want to go or is that not really important? - Andrew |
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#2727 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Drives: 2016 FRS
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Right now it's sitting on TRD springs, which is hardly an inch drop if that, I'd like to go down at least another inch. Side note, if I bought 18x9.5 +40 wheels and wrapped them in 265/35/18 tires, would I rub? I know I would rub on stock Suspension, but since I have springs, would it still rub? Thanks for all your help though, really appreciate it. |
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#2728 |
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Before I post, I searched this thread for "preload" and I couldn't find an explicit answer to this question. If this has been answered, please point me to it! Anyway, here goes:
What is the proper way to set up a suspension that has separate "preload" and "ride height" adjustments? A ubiquitous example of this type of coilover would be the Tein Flex. With these coils, "preload" is typically set by moving the spring perch up or down, and "ride height" and/or shock length is set by threading the shock body further into or out of the lower mount "cup." I've seen two methods proposed (though there may be more): First method - use the spring perch to set ride height 1. With the suspension off the car, remove the spring. 2. Put the spring-less assembly on the car, and mount the wheel tire. 3. Jack up the control arms / wheel + tire and adjust shock length until the tire does no longer contacts the top of the wheel well at full compression. 4. Remove the shock assembly from the car, reinstall the spring, and set final ride height via spring perch aka "preloading the spring." Second method - use shock length to set ride height 1. With the suspension out of the car, first set preload. If preload is set by the manufacturer, don't touch it. Otherwise, adjust lower perch until the spring is "snug," then tighten another 1/4 turn (varies). 2. Install the coilover assembly into the car then adjust ride height by turning the entire shock assembly into or out of the lower cup, careful not to move the spring perch / change preload amount. I can see pros and cons of both methods, but they undeniably produce different results. Which way is the correct way?
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#2729 |
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( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: '13 Whiteout FR-S A/T
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@Racecomp Engineering
@CSG Mike OEM '13 dampers vs. Koni's - Is the softest setting equal or stiffer on the Koni's? |
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#2730 | |
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Quote:
- Andrew |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Racecomp Engineering For This Useful Post: | drewbot (09-24-2015) |
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