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Old 08-31-2015, 05:58 PM   #183
churchx
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Higher spring rates .. wasn't that already in EUDM/JDM Z-s?
(I sometimes wish for CSG to test JDM Flex Z-s too, as for customers on other side of pond ordering USDM version will worsen main advantage of low price for good dampeners due import/shipping charges, and also it may be harder to warranty/service/order replacements for USDM variant, adding time and cost to ship overseas for that as well)
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Old 08-31-2015, 06:30 PM   #184
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Higher spring rates .. wasn't that already in EUDM/JDM Z-s?
(I sometimes wish for CSG to test JDM Flex Z-s too, as for customers on other side of pond ordering USDM version will worsen main advantage of low price for good dampeners due import/shipping charges, and also it may be harder to warranty/service/order replacements for USDM variant, adding time and cost to ship overseas for that as well)
Well, if you can fly me to Japan and provide me with a 86 equipped with the JDM spec Flex-Z, as well as arrange some track time, I'll gladly get the testing done
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Old 08-31-2015, 06:32 PM   #185
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Higher spring rates .. wasn't that already in EUDM/JDM Z-s?
(I sometimes wish for CSG to test JDM Flex Z-s too, as for customers on other side of pond ordering USDM version will worsen main advantage of low price for good dampeners due import/shipping charges, and also it may be harder to warranty/service/order replacements for USDM variant, adding time and cost to ship overseas for that as well)
Spring rates identical.
If there is a conceivable difference in dampening, you could probably not tell for street use. I had JDM spec, rode over potholes just fine.
You will always get better warranty and service by ordering your coilovers through your local or regional authorized dealer.
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Old 08-31-2015, 10:08 PM   #186
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I'm adjusting the height now for the rears but one side the springs (just the springs, not the whole strut(?)) are rotating freely while the other side it's taking a lot of effort to rotate. The measurement for the seat lock (for Springs) and the lower bottom lock for height are the same now after my adjustment. Is this normal? Should the springs be taut or loose? Car is currently jacked up by the differential btw. It's the drivers side that's loose, could it be because the passenger side has the gas tank and it's pitting pressure on the springs? I do have a full tank. Yeah, I'm not sure haha

Last edited by tracerit; 08-31-2015 at 10:22 PM.
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:20 PM   #187
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I'm adjusting the height now for the rears but one side the springs (just the springs, not the whole strut(?)) are rotating freely while the other side it's taking a lot of effort to rotate. The measurement for the seat lock (for Springs) and the lower bottom lock for height are the same now after my adjustment. Is this normal? Should the springs be taut or loose? Car is currently jacked up by the differential btw. It's the drivers side that's loose, could it be because the passenger side has the gas tank and it's pitting pressure on the springs? I do have a full tank. Yeah, I'm not sure haha
Prior to install, it is recommended to adjust the coilovers according to the recommended measurements provided in the manual. These values allow you to set the preload to the recommended setting without too much effort and allows you to set the ride height accordingly. Tighten the collars and perches properly, not semi-loose (which causes the assembly to seemingly sag or lose your measured spec). Always check that the top nut is tighten properly to ensure that top hat sits securely on the coilover and holds the springs in place. These are general tips to take into consideration and to let your mechanic/technician know before install.
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:02 PM   #188
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I just measured and adjusted the rear and going for the fronts now. The rears were off by over an inch both sides. With everything matched to the recommended measurements, the spring is no longer loose. Although the right rear is 2/16th inch higher after reinstalling everything still. , would that be a problem down the road?
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:14 PM   #189
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I just measured and adjusted the rear and going for the fronts now. The rears were off by over an inch both sides. With everything matched to the recommended measurements, the spring is no longer loose. Although the right rear is 2/16th inch higher after reinstalling everything still. , would that be a problem down the road?
Just start doing everything first and make sure everything is tight. Then drive around and recheck. It should be good to go.
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Old 09-06-2015, 10:06 AM   #190
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If I keep the car long enough to wear out the factory dampers, this looks like the way to go, assuming they're still available. I just have one strange thought.
Does anyone else find it odd that they designed dampers with 28 levels of adjustment that are pretty much never set beyond 8 or so?
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Old 09-06-2015, 11:02 AM   #191
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Old 09-06-2015, 12:59 PM   #192
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Did they ever stated in marketing materials or product description that there are 28 lev of adjustment? Otherwise it looks to me that there is groundless product bashing simply because some users guess/expect that each and every click from those 28lv should be available just because they think so, and tein should spend time/efforts to remove 'redundant clicks'. To me it looks rather sharing some parts or designs or thread depths with other coilovers to quicken and to save on development costs, hence nothing wrong if even with just lesser real adjustment levels count they still does what they should, unless they actually marketed it other way.
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Old 09-06-2015, 01:09 PM   #193
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Instructions included with the product state 16 clicks, marketing also I believe.
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Old 09-06-2015, 02:07 PM   #194
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How much is the camper on rear with this kit if I put 18" wheels and lower it to be flush? Is there need for adjustable camber control arms?
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Old 09-06-2015, 02:16 PM   #195
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At 1.2" lower than stock, ended up at -1.8 left, -2.5 right, so I bought cheap SPC lca, not sold on their adjustment method, haven't installed yet, any body weigh in on SPC?
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Old 09-06-2015, 08:47 PM   #196
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Any recommendations for what I numbers I should have the shop doing the alignment go for? I'm dropped to the factory specs from Tein and this would be for highway and street driving.
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