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| Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous |
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#1 |
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Boost pressure for built engine
I swear I've seen quite a few threads on this but now that I'm searching for them I can't find much... so hopefully someone can help me out here.
Basically at the moment I've got an AVO stage 3 turbo running 0.6 bar (about 8 psi) on the low boost map and 0.8 bar (about 12 psi) on the higher boost map, but this is on the stock engine. I'm considering getting the engine built with forged rods, lower compression ratio pistons (10:1), and stronger valve springs, so that we can then increase the boost without too much risk of damaging anything. But I'm wondering what sort of level it would be "safe" to increase it to. I won't be running it on E85 or race fuel, just 98 RON super unleaded petrol. So does anyone have any experience with (or know someone who has) a boosted FA20 that has had forged internals installed, and if so what kind of boost pressure were they running and did it end badly or is it still going strong? If I can only really get away with increasing it to 1 bar or something then I probably won't bother, as the difference between 0.6 and 0.8 isn't that noticeable, so I'd need to be getting close to doubling the pressure for it to be worth the cost of the engine build for me really. DISCLAIMER: Yes I know there is no 100% accurate answer because everyone's version of "safe" or "reliable" is different. I'm not expecting the engine to last forever, but I drive the car a lot and do plenty of track days and drift days so I don't want it to be running so much boost that it might blow up after 3000 miles. Again I know no one can guarantee that won't happen even with relatively low boost, but I'm just asking for a general opinion of what is sensible and should be fairly safe on a built engine.
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My GT86 build so far:
AVO Stage 4 Turbo, Carrillo forged con rods, 10:1 CR Carrillo pistons, AVO 3 inch turbo back exhaust, Helix clutch, TheDriveShaftShop drive shafts, lightweight flywheel, NamelessPerformance hydraulic hand brake, KW V3 coilovers... and lots of other little bits |
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#2 |
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in orbe terrum non visi
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Remer lower compression decreases torque and moves the powerband higher in the rev range
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#3 |
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but doesn't it also mean we can make the boost kick in a little earlier in the rev range too without damaging things? Or does it just mean you can have more boost pressure but it still has to be coming on at the same rev range as with the stock motor
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My GT86 build so far:
AVO Stage 4 Turbo, Carrillo forged con rods, 10:1 CR Carrillo pistons, AVO 3 inch turbo back exhaust, Helix clutch, TheDriveShaftShop drive shafts, lightweight flywheel, NamelessPerformance hydraulic hand brake, KW V3 coilovers... and lots of other little bits |
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#4 |
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Things to consider:
How early the turbo builds boost The quality of parts used How it's tuned The killer of stock rods is low end torque, you could run more boost than you do now without changing anything if you don't add the torque at the lower end. This can be done with cam mapping and decent EBCS etc. This is why you can run decent top end power on an SC install on a stock motor quite easily. However if you want a low end torque monster then you will need to uprate the rods. If you drop the CR of the piston then you automatically "lose" power and response. The power you can make up for by adding in boost earlier. The killer then is detonation or just too much torque for the rods or bearings to take. Spec a decent thicker oil for the bearings and hopefully Adrian should know the limits of the beefier rods. TBH with most forged stuff you are likely to hit detonation before the rods become a worry with the boost you're on about.
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#5 | |
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Quote:
I saw some comments about running thicker oils but there seemed to be mixed opinions on it and no definitive answer on when it is a good idea to move to a thicker oil (or how much thicker to go).
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My GT86 build so far:
AVO Stage 4 Turbo, Carrillo forged con rods, 10:1 CR Carrillo pistons, AVO 3 inch turbo back exhaust, Helix clutch, TheDriveShaftShop drive shafts, lightweight flywheel, NamelessPerformance hydraulic hand brake, KW V3 coilovers... and lots of other little bits |
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#6 |
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Boost doesn't mean a whole lot. The flow/efficiency does. 20psi on an 18g vs 20psi on a 72mm will be way different. For reference, 18psi on my old avo setup peaked at ~390whp but died off horribly because it was out of efficiency. 18psi on my 6262 makes about 500whp and still climbs to redline
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#7 | |
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Quote:
That's a good point and that's why I mentioned the turbo that I've got, but just to clarify it's this one: http://www.fensport.co.uk/Parts/Mode...tegory_17/4917 Apparently it has 20% better flow compared to the stage 1 & stage 2 AVO turbo and is rated for 450hp of flow. What that means in the real world in terms of when it is running past its optimal efficiency, I don't know.
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My GT86 build so far:
AVO Stage 4 Turbo, Carrillo forged con rods, 10:1 CR Carrillo pistons, AVO 3 inch turbo back exhaust, Helix clutch, TheDriveShaftShop drive shafts, lightweight flywheel, NamelessPerformance hydraulic hand brake, KW V3 coilovers... and lots of other little bits |
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#8 |
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You're missing the point. At 12.5-1 we saw peak torque at 4k at 13.5-1 we say a gtx30 spool at the same rate as my gtx28. At 9-1 peak torque was almost 1500 rpm later with the same size turbo.
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#9 | |
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NASA SpecE30 Racer
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Quote:
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#10 | |
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Quote:
I thought there was no point sticking with 12.5:1 CR if I'm rebuilding the engine because we're just going to get knock as soon as we start increasing the boost much more right? Stronger rods and pistons etc aren't going to help with that are they (unless I'm misunderstanding something). So it seems pointless doing it if I'm not going to go to a lower CR.
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My GT86 build so far:
AVO Stage 4 Turbo, Carrillo forged con rods, 10:1 CR Carrillo pistons, AVO 3 inch turbo back exhaust, Helix clutch, TheDriveShaftShop drive shafts, lightweight flywheel, NamelessPerformance hydraulic hand brake, KW V3 coilovers... and lots of other little bits |
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#11 |
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To improve acceleration in mid / high gears and to spin the wheels up easier in lower gears (for drifting), and to just generally feel faster and be more fun. Not sure what other possible answers there would be so I'm kind of confused why you'd ask the question.
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My GT86 build so far:
AVO Stage 4 Turbo, Carrillo forged con rods, 10:1 CR Carrillo pistons, AVO 3 inch turbo back exhaust, Helix clutch, TheDriveShaftShop drive shafts, lightweight flywheel, NamelessPerformance hydraulic hand brake, KW V3 coilovers... and lots of other little bits |
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#12 | |
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I Love custom Turbo kits
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Quote:
Do you have E85 available in your area? If so, I'd stick with 12.5 and keep that turbo spooling as quick as it does now, but with infinite room to grow because of the beefier internals. If no E85, I'd say lower compression at the most to 11, so get some knock margin, but not too low as to drastically move your spool RPM range too far up. His question could be answered as in, for drag racing, for road racing more power coming out of corners, etc...
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#13 |
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NASA SpecE30 Racer
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Good luck my friend. You will need it I have a feeling.
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#14 |
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Care to explain?
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My GT86 build so far:
AVO Stage 4 Turbo, Carrillo forged con rods, 10:1 CR Carrillo pistons, AVO 3 inch turbo back exhaust, Helix clutch, TheDriveShaftShop drive shafts, lightweight flywheel, NamelessPerformance hydraulic hand brake, KW V3 coilovers... and lots of other little bits |
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