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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous

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Old 08-10-2015, 11:08 PM   #15
RedFR-s
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Originally Posted by Sammakko View Post
what fuel are you running?
Petro Canada 94 octane
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Old 08-10-2015, 11:13 PM   #16
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What mixture % of water meth are you running? And how is it being triggered?
I've got 2 tunes (ECUTek) 1 straight gas 1 with meth.

I run a 50/50 mix meth to distilled water. There's a controller where at 3k RPM the pump starts running and from 5k to redline the pump runs at full bore.

I've been running the gas tune mainly but see these issues on both.
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Old 08-10-2015, 11:22 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by RedFR-s View Post
I've got 2 tunes (ECUTek) 1 straight gas 1 with meth.

I run a 50/50 mix meth to distilled water. There's a controller where at 3k RPM the pump starts running and from 5k to redline the pump runs at full bore.

I've been running the gas tune mainly but see these issues on both.
you can't expect a tune from another car to work the same on yours. engines are different. . .

have you verified fuel pressure is correct?
can you monitor your fuel injector pulse width?
have you checked for boost leaks?
is your MAF dirty?
have you verified your TPS is actually scaling properly?
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Old 08-10-2015, 11:23 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by RedFR-s View Post
Thanks tips, your assumptions are super helpful.



I'm not blaming my tune, I suggesting it as a possible cause. I was under no false pretenses that this would be expensive. I've bought a wideband and am awaiting shop time to get the bung installed.



The coolant line failure I can't explain as the set-up was exactly what was used by the previous owner. I still have to get exact details from my shop on the vacuum line issue.



This was my first big install and I have turned to this community to learn and ask for help, not be mocked and ridiculed. That isn't the point of these forums.

Sorry if it came off that way. I mean just re read my post and answer the questions. They are questions to be answered if you want to diagnose and fix your issues I still say you need to make sure everything is mechanically sound before the tune is addressed as the shops are trying to blame each other.

Since this was your first install I would definitely check everything again and inspect the parts to make sure they are in good working order. Just be safe and no crazy pulls as you did when it was cold so that nothing happens to your motor.


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Old 08-10-2015, 11:30 PM   #19
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This isn't a smart ass comment but have you thought of matching his kit entirely with his setup; starting with I don't know but maybe getting a DW265 "DW65C" pump too?

I figure whenever you change hardware to something entirely different tune maybe required.

Think the going rate is around $149
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Old 08-10-2015, 11:35 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammakko View Post
you can't expect a tune from another car to work the same on yours. engines are different. . .

have you verified fuel pressure is correct?
can you monitor your fuel injector pulse width?
have you checked for boost leaks?
is your MAF dirty?
have you verified your TPS is actually scaling properly?
My tuner used the previous tune as a base and tweaked it on the dyno.

I've got the wide band for afr and next will be a pressure gauge for fuel pressure.

I've checked for leaks but don't have a proper tester.

I'll try cleaning my MAF hadn't thought of that. How do I verify TPS scaling?
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Old 08-10-2015, 11:39 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GsxrMe View Post
This isn't a smart ass comment but have you thought of matching his kit entirely with his setup; starting with I don't know but maybe getting a DW265 "DW65C" pump too?

I figure whenever you change hardware to something entirely different tune maybe required.

Think the going rate is around $149
They are about $275CAD now and the pump I I actually has better flow capacity than the DW265 and has also been used by other members here.

Had a tune done after my install unique to my car done on a dyno by a pro
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Old 08-10-2015, 11:52 PM   #22
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OK, this is the only thing I can really fathom but the damn EVAP is really hard to get to and some people are having issues with boost blowing the non clamped cars EVAP hoses off. Pull your intake off or whatever you can do easily and check the hoses to ensure you don't have a boost leak. The image below is with adding clamps. I have already pulled my AC off to clamp them to future proof.

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Old 08-10-2015, 11:54 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedFR-s View Post
How do I verify TPS scaling?

well, you'd need a volt meter, and a helper. should be 0-5 volts from no to full throttle. or, if you have a CANBUS you can plug into your obd2 plug, you can check to make sure it isn't glitchy by slowly rolling through the throttle.

now that you've overheated the car, be ultra sensitive to changes in temps, etc. check your oil for water often.
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Old 08-14-2015, 11:06 AM   #24
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Any update on the issue(s) with your car?
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Old 08-14-2015, 12:42 PM   #25
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Any update on the issue(s) with your car?
She's been running great this week. Waiting on shop time to get the bung in for my wideband so I can monitor if the leaning issue is resolved.
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Old 08-16-2015, 08:33 PM   #26
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Have you been "running through the 6" with these? ������. Couldn't help myself..
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Old 08-20-2015, 01:56 PM   #27
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I got my wideband in last night and went out for a drive. I couldn't replicate the hesitation issue but I did see AFR values of up to 16 at the 6k rpm mark WOT that my tuner saw on the dyno.

I spoke with my shop and they took a bunch of logs and everything looked normal (fuel pressure, injectors, timing, knock sensor) and suggested the injectors aren't maxed out on duty cycle (which could also explain why it ran better cold). I'm working on getting the logs from them.

Waiting to see if I can replicate the hesitation issue with the wideband and try to borrow my buddies OFT for logging.
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Old 09-08-2015, 01:04 PM   #28
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Update:
I pulled out my fuel pump seeing as when the tank was very low I was getting fuel starvation so i thought maybe the canister was mis aligned and not pulling in fuel fast enough to feed the pump. I found out that the design of the AEM pump fuel sock is causing it to choke itself. the sock is designed to pull fuel beneath the pump, but because it is longer that sock and with the pressure required to seal the canister on the tank, the pump is pullin fuel through about 10% of the sock area.

My next step is to replace the sock with one like the DW-65c pump that wraps up the side of the canister.
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