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Old 08-06-2015, 11:05 AM   #43
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Now removing the top hat from the oem strut is what I am concerned about?
Any tips
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:07 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by klearfade View Post
Now removing the top hat from the oem strut is what I am concerned about?
Any tips
Dont do it if you dont have to....

But if you do, you MUST use a spring compressor.
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:13 PM   #45
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Dont do it if you dont have to....

But if you do, you MUST use a spring compressor.
I actually just saw a great write up that shows how to remove the top hate with a hollow ratchet and a hex key....yayyyy

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Old 08-06-2015, 12:27 PM   #46
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Super late

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Originally Posted by hahaman86 View Post
Sorry to hear that happen I'm trying to get around to installing my kw's as well. I just absolutely clueless as to how to get the top hat off the stock strut. I borrowed a spring compressor from auto zone but have no idea how to use it. Any chance I could get some help? I've looked and haven't been really able to get a clear guide how to remove them.
lol little late but this helped as well
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32414
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:31 PM   #47
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This helped for the top hat

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Originally Posted by Cockatoo View Post
Dont do it if you dont have to....

But if you do, you MUST use a spring compressor.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32414
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Old 08-06-2015, 02:17 PM   #48
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I saw that before and totally forgot, that does look much easier
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Old 12-07-2015, 04:13 PM   #49
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Rear Suspension Diagram with Torque Values

Do you know where I can find one of these diagrams for the rear suspension? I'm changing out the LCAs along with coilovers. I might change a few of the other components back there as well in the future. Having a diagram of the rear with the torque values would be really helpful. The 'Service Manual' that someone uploaded doesn't cover these parts. And I have yet to find a Chilton's or Hayne's for these cars.
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Old 04-01-2016, 11:56 PM   #50
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Did my coils today. The back were a breeze, 45 minutes tops for both sides. The fronts...those damned endlinks...how does a one year old car have such seized up bolts? It took another 2 hours each side just for those bolts. They're now destroyed and need to be replaced. Blow torch and vice grips should be added to the list of tools needed. Great help though! Thanks guys
PB Blaster penetrating lubricant is what I used to break endlink nuts loose. Just spray wait 30 seconds and remove nut like normal.
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Old 04-02-2016, 12:28 AM   #51
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What is the definitive answer for front end links? You do need the adjustable? Or no?

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Last edited by mpross; 04-02-2016 at 12:48 AM.
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Old 04-02-2016, 02:05 PM   #52
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What is the definitive answer for front end links? You do need the adjustable? Or no?

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If you are lowered over 1" or so vs stock then I think the adjustable front end links are recommended.
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:00 PM   #53
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I'd recommend them. My car has been thrown out of alignment multiple times in just a few months.
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Old 06-12-2016, 04:43 PM   #54
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Installed Tein Street Flex, did anyone cut their rear carpeting to let the top dampers for the rear coils sit properly without pushing the carpeting out?
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Old 10-03-2016, 08:57 PM   #55
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I am probably gonna install Ten Flex Z very soon.



red mark line is where ride height adjustment i can make?
checked manual front B is 28mm and Rear B is 35mm



so i need to make 28mm and 35mm between collar for default setting?
I am trying to lower 1.2

thanks
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Old 10-04-2016, 06:06 PM   #56
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i am quite mechanic savy and did most work done on many cars and trying to install coilover today and these damm endlinks' hex was rust like shiiit and it got round off and cannot hex anymore. i used pb blaster torched and did not work before it got rounded.
i managed to remove driver side's endlink from sway bar not on strut!! lol
I am gonna buy adjustable endlinks but i am stuck on passenger side' endlink.
any idea to remove damm rusted endlink?
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