1UZ swap - running.

[aagun]

Ok .. what is the different between stock flywheel and above one ? And what about driveshaft. Same size of stock one . What if i use stock manifold with catalyst for better economy .

[usptwins]

in for updates. Great idea

[2much]

I would love to read more about that white rx7

awesome build on the 86 too of course!

[crazyfrenchbiker]

Did you figure out the fuel lines? Both those lines come from the same line at the fuel pump. I'm not really sure why Toyota decided to split it further back, but what you did should work just fine unless you want to run new lines.

[Lonewolf]

@Manji

Any updates?

[Valentino]

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDYIgBnYvi4"]Wiring and Tuning Project "Panhard" - Part 1 1UZFE V8 Powered Toyota 86 / Scion FRS - YouTube[/ame]

[cf6mech]

Was wondering, the video addresses budget minded builders......how does a 5400 dollar ecu equate to that statement? Maybe they are cheaper in Australia?

[cf6mech]

Very cool on Motec.....may actually be going that way on my swap.....that's the last bit that needs to be done....just called them for a price.....if the shop I'm dealing with won't ,..or can't come up with a solution soon and give me a price for said solution may have to buy the Motec.....but its going to take time as I'm out of cash right now .

[Calum]

Originally Posted by cf6mech

Very cool on Motec.....may actually be going that way on my swap.....that's the last bit that needs to be done....just called them for a price.....if the shop I'm dealing with won't ,..or can't come up with a solution soon and give me a price for said solution may have to buy the Motec.....but its going to take time as I'm out of cash right now .

I'm strangely comforted by the fact that you can run out of money.

[Roadcone]

sorry to be debby downer but whats the idea of running a 1UZ? I was screwing around with a 1UZ swapped Mk3 supra a few months ago and it wasnt any faster than my car... just seems like a really expensive way to make the car worse....

[Manji]

Originally Posted by Roadcone

sorry to be debby downer but whats the idea of running a 1UZ? I was screwing around with a 1UZ swapped Mk3 supra a few months ago and it wasnt any faster than my car... just seems like a really expensive way to make the car worse....

Fair enough. You should do a fa20 swap into a mk3 based on that logic.

In all seriousness, in my opinion, it was the best bang for buck when I weighed up all options. Bang being 300-350whp, and buck being long term, not just initial cost.

For the fa20 to be OEM reliable at that power level, the motor needs $10k thrown at it. Probably $5k on the box (or adapting another) as well.
And then, you're still left with a puss 2 litre when off boost.

I'd worked out that if I blew my fa20 and or box at the power above I was going to spend x amount on it to rebuild and strengthen them.

But if I sold my fa20, box, turbo kit, and added the same x to the value, that is a reasonable budget to allow for the motor swap, which is exactly what I did.

So then it became a choice of what would be better, a built fa20, strong box (eg what I would consider OEM reliable) 350whp, or a motor swap that could achieve the same power.
I weighed up several options, 2GR, 1UZ, 2JZ, 2UR, and LS. Based on the factors and considerations that were important to me, the 1UZ proved the best option.

The fact the 1UZ has little e-cred I saw as a huge positive. It keeps their resale value very low, when compared to the other options above, and the fa20. This equated well for long term economics, which as I've said was a major consideration.

I've been down the rebuilt/forged motor path several times already, on other platforms. People believe that once a motor has "600HP rods yo" that it will never blow, I've never found this to be true. I've had $15k motors last less than 1000kms (albeit race conditions).

Experience has taught me to be realistic with both power requirements (I know that 350whp in a 1200kg car will be plenty) and related to that, reliability expectations. While a 1UZ is an overbuilt motor, as are some of the others above, I accept now that motors are in fact consumables and its best to plan as if it will need replacing often.

Oh, then there's the sound of the thing.

I have a 1UZ in my daily now, an Altezza. I love the car. And its only a stock non-vvti 1UZ. Everytime I drive it I think of what it will be like with 100 more whp and 400 less kg to haul around.

At the end of the day, a high proportion of motor swaps are done for the "look at me" factor. I'll admit I've done it myself. This time I worked out was important to me and made my decision based on that.

No argument that for say another $5k, I could've bought a 500whp capable motor package, with gobs of reliability (put probably not as much as a 1UZ at 350) but I just don't need it. My race car has (well had, I just recently sold it) 400whp in a 1100kg frame, and it didn't need the last 50whp. So I don't see the point in paying for power (and sacrificing reliability) that I don't want/need.

The idea with this build, is that when this wiring is done, the car is done. No on-going forever project that never gets driven because its always getting another thing done (been there). No "shit whats wrong with the motor/turbo/box" No "I wish it had more power". All I need to do once it's tuned is put in my DSS axles that are sitting infront of me, put the Meisters back on, wind the suspension down, put on the trd bumper and vertex sides and ends, put on the endless brakes, and the PBM super angle kit. Then its just a mountain road cruiser for the weekend with the occasional drift track day thrown in; with very minimal (fingers crossed) ongoing cost / issues.

Bliss.

[uspspro]

Originally Posted by Roadcone

sorry to be debby downer but whats the idea of running a 1UZ? I was screwing around with a 1UZ swapped Mk3 supra a few months ago and it wasnt any faster than my car... just seems like a really expensive way to make the car worse....

yeah but the mk3 supra weighs like a million pounds

The 1uz is amazingly smooth and reliable, and is pretty cheap.

Also, was the mk3 a vvti model 1UZ or prior generation?

The 90-94 spec was 250 hp/260 ftlb
The 95-96 spec was 260 hp/270 ftlb
The 97+ VVTi was 290 hp/300 ftlb

This one is VVTi, most swaps are done with the 90-94 motor.

[cf6mech]

Originally Posted by Manji

Fair enough. You should do a fa20 swap into a mk3 based on that logic.

In all seriousness, in my opinion, it was the best bang for buck when I weighed up all options. Bang being 300-350whp, and buck being long term, not just initial cost.

For the fa20 to be OEM reliable at that power level, the motor needs $10k thrown at it. Probably $5k on the box (or adapting another) as well.
And then, you're still left with a puss 2 litre when off boost.

I'd worked out that if I blew my fa20 and or box at the power above I was going to spend x amount on it to rebuild and strengthen them.

But if I sold my fa20, box, turbo kit, and added the same x to the value, that is a reasonable budget to allow for the motor swap, which is exactly what I did.

So then it became a choice of what would be better, a built fa20, strong box (eg what I would consider OEM reliable) 350whp, or a motor swap that could achieve the same power.
I weighed up several options, 2GR, 1UZ, 2JZ, 2UR, and LS. Based on the factors and considerations that were important to me, the 1UZ proved the best option.

The fact the 1UZ has little e-cred I saw as a huge positive. It keeps their resale value very low, when compared to the other options above, and the fa20. This equated well for long term economics, which as I've said was a major consideration.

I've been down the rebuilt/forged motor path several times already, on other platforms. People believe that once a motor has "600HP rods yo" that it will never blow, I've never found this to be true. I've had $15k motors last less than 1000kms (albeit race conditions).

Experience has taught me to be realistic with both power requirements (I know that 350whp in a 1200kg car will be plenty) and related to that, reliability expectations. While a 1UZ is an overbuilt motor, as are some of the others above, I accept now that motors are in fact consumables and its best to plan as if it will need replacing often.

Oh, then there's the sound of the thing.

I have a 1UZ in my daily now, an Altezza. I love the car. And its only a stock non-vvti 1UZ. Everytime I drive it I think of what it will be like with 100 more whp and 400 less kg to haul around.

At the end of the day, a high proportion of motor swaps are done for the "look at me" factor. I'll admit I've done it myself. This time I worked out was important to me and made my decision based on that.

No argument that for say another $5k, I could've bought a 500whp capable motor package, with gobs of reliability (put probably not as much as a 1UZ at 350) but I just don't need it. My race car has (well had, I just recently sold it) 400whp in a 1100kg frame, and it didn't need the last 50whp. So I don't see the point in paying for power (and sacrificing reliability) that I don't want/need.

The idea with this build, is that when this wiring is done, the car is done. No on-going forever project that never gets driven because its always getting another thing done (been there). No "shit whats wrong with the motor/turbo/box" No "I wish it had more power". All I need to do once it's tuned is put in my DSS axles that are sitting infront of me, put the Meisters back on, wind the suspension down, put on the trd bumper and vertex sides and ends, put on the endless brakes, and the PBM super angle kit. Then its just a mountain road cruiser for the weekend with the occasional drift track day thrown in; with very minimal (fingers crossed) ongoing cost / issues.

Bliss.

You pretty much have quoted my words (almost exactly) for the reasoning on my build . Using my goal also of 350whp. Anything over that requires a much bigger commitment in tire sizes that require modifications to wheel wells for fitment meaning more $$$. Along with the increased grip level requires considerations for long term reliability of the stock diff. , more $$$$. It all becomes a slippery slope .

[OmarGC]

Originally Posted by cf6mech

You pretty much have quoted my words (almost exactly) for the reasoning on my build . Using my goal also of 350whp. Anything over that requires a much bigger commitment in tire sizes that require modifications to wheel wells for fitment meaning more $$$. Along with the increased grip level requires considerations for long term reliability of the stock diff. , more $$$$. It all becomes a slippery slope .

Think we need to start giving the stock diff a lot more credit. I have yet to even hear whine from my factory pumpkin. I have a spare m85(altezza/is300 direct swap in diff) just in case it ever does come to that but it has not. Even at 700whp+. But same pumpkin as the IS300, which I've seen first hand take 700ft lbs of torque on radials

I destroyed a r154 so far... But have replaced it. Only area of concern are axles in my case. 275s are as wide as I ever shall need to go and stock body as plenty of room for it