Subaru BRZ 2015 Series Blue rebuild

[kilohercas]

Originally Posted by TurboBRZ

On this design how would the fan kick on at a certain temperature instead of just being on all the time whenever there is a signal from the temp sensor?

Sorry - last question

This should be unstable circuit, if i understand correctly, it is relying on the current from transistor to trip the relay. So transistor will allow for relay to be closed. Due to increase of voltage, transistor at some point ( defined by base current, that can be controlled by resistor in series) will be able to switch relay. But here is the problem, it can start to oscillate, This is why for job like that just use NTC + LM311 + hysteresis circuit , so it will enable fan at trip temperature, and disable fan at trip temperature minus few degrees

[P3tras]

Originally Posted by kilohercas

This should be unstable circuit, if i understand correctly, it is relying on the current from transistor to trip the relay. So transistor will allow for relay to be closed. Due to increase of voltage, transistor at some point ( defined by base current, that can be controlled by resistor in series) will be able to switch relay. But here is the problem, it can start to oscillate, This is why for job like that just use NTC + LM311 + hysteresis circuit , so it will enable fan at trip temperature, and disable fan at trip temperature minus few degrees

Yep, yep. It is why I said some kind of circuit would be needed to control transistor. For example fan tuns on at 220F and only turns off when temp reaches 200F. I am not electrical engineer, thus cannot say exactly what circuit would be needed. Temp sensor resistance changes when oil temp increases/decreases. As I recall there is temp/resistance curve in BRZ service manual. Values can be used for creating circuit.

Wild idea Kilo, but maybe it would be possible to fix some micro switches in gear leveller mechanism? It would only work when you are already in gear, but engine should reach correct RPM before you release the clutch. Yes, it won't work for super-fast race shifting, but should give very smooth casual shifts (smooth clutch action to be exact)

[kilohercas]

Originally Posted by P3tras

Wild idea Kilo, but maybe it would be possible to fix some micro switches in gear leveller mechanism? It would only work when you are already in gear, but engine should reach correct RPM before you release the clutch. Yes, it won't work for super-fast race shifting, but should give very smooth casual shifts (smooth clutch action to be exact)

Well, i have to sit near the leaver and think.

I could use simple reed switch for odd and even gears, and just calculate gear based on rpm and speed

It will be hard to make it for every gear, since when you shift, you pull to the left (1-2-R), keep at middle ( 3-4) or pull to the right (5-6). But after release leaver jumps to closer position, so it is hard to make read/micro switch for every gear, they are just too close.

If it had gater like Ferrari, that would not be a problem at all

regarding oil cooler FAN control. I designed circuit that will generate PWM signal based on temperature. It will run at constant duty cycle around 20% at 25C ( with 10k NTC), and by making trimmer resistor larger, set point at 100Į duty cycle will go lower. At least that the idea

[TurboBRZ]

Originally Posted by kilohercas

Well, i have to sit near the leaver and think.

I could use simple reed switch for odd and even gears, and just calculate gear based on rpm and speed

It will be hard to make it for every gear, since when you shift, you pull to the left (1-2-R), keep at middle ( 3-4) or pull to the right (5-6). But after release leaver jumps to closer position, so it is hard to make read/micro switch for every gear, they are just too close.

If it had gater like Ferrari, that would not be a problem at all

regarding oil cooler FAN control. I designed circuit that will generate PWM signal based on temperature. It will run at constant duty cycle around 20% at 25C ( with 10k NTC), and by making trimmer resistor larger, set point at 100Į duty cycle will go lower. At least that the idea

I can't wait till my schooling gives me the ability to design circuits like you. Very impressive!

[kilohercas]

did some measurements on gear leaver mechanism

i found 57x31mm plate ( screw middles so +1-2cm for each side ) were i can secure my sensor pcb, and find that gear spacing at this hight is only 3.5mm

So i will design pcb with hallo sensors that could determine gear leaver position with great precision

[TurboBRZ]

How long do you estimate your rebuild will take to complete?

[kilohercas]

Originally Posted by TurboBRZ

How long do you estimate your rebuild will take to complete?

1 month for parts to get ( will by "ordering" them next week ) and don't know how much time will take to paint and fix all my metalwork, i guess at least 1 month

And after that final reassembly ( if all parts are in house ) i have to check the car to be able to register, get insurance than register.

Right now i am missing wheel, skirts, front spoiler, bumper, right side liner, drivers airbag, seat belts, day time running lights with fog lamps, and all metal work that is damaged.

Just finished designing gear leaver position circuit. Hope it works

[White64Goat]

I would assume that the measurements for the frame geometry should be in the shop manual which can be found in the forums. (I've never looked at the manual). If that transmission mount was damaged by the force of the car stopping, I'd take a good look at the engine mounts too.

[kilohercas]

Originally Posted by White64Goat

I would assume that the measurements for the frame geometry should be in the shop manual which can be found in the forums. (I've never looked at the manual). If that transmission mount was damaged by the force of the car stopping, I'd take a good look at the engine mounts too.

With visual inspection it looks ok

[TurboBRZ]

Originally Posted by White64Goat

I would assume that the measurements for the frame geometry should be in the shop manual which can be found in the forums. (I've never looked at the manual). If that transmission mount was damaged by the force of the car stopping, I'd take a good look at the engine mounts too.

That's what my mount looked like (right in photo) - similar to Kilo here and my motor mounts are in perfect condition strangely.

[kilohercas]

Originally Posted by TurboBRZ

That's what my mount looked like (right in photo) - similar to Kilo here and my motor mounts are in perfect condition strangely.

I would say your is much more twisted than mine.

Also, does mount on the left is after market, or where did you get yours ?

[TurboBRZ]

Originally Posted by kilohercas

I would say your is much more twisted than mine.

Also, does mount on the left is after market, or where did you get yours ?

Yeah, mine is quite a bit more twisted - perhaps why my 2nd gear doesn't engage?

The brand is Megan racing and I got it on eBay for $65.99 with 3 dAy shipping

[kilohercas]

Originally Posted by TurboBRZ

Yeah, mine is quite a bit more twisted - perhaps why my 2nd gear doesn't engage?

The brand is Megan racing and I got it on eBay for $65.99 with 3 dAy shipping

Hm, this cost same for shipping as for part, will see if any will lower shipping price at least to 30$ ( same part i could send for 5$ in our shipping rates to USA)

You also have problems with shifter ?

If you changed your mount like i did, and you still have problems, maybe it is possible that metal plate that is designed to shift into reverse is tiny bit bend, in that case you could not get 1 or 2 gear, look at my photos of shifter mechanism ( parts with tones of grease on) , but i doubt that

[TurboBRZ]

Originally Posted by kilohercas

Hm, this cost same for shipping as for part, will see if any will lower shipping price at least to 30$ ( same part i could send for 5$ in our shipping rates to USA)

You also have problems with shifter ?

If you changed your mount like i did, and you still have problems, maybe it is possible that metal plate that is designed to shift into reverse is tiny bit bend, in that case you could not get 1 or 2 gear, look at my photos of shifter mechanism ( parts with tones of grease on) , but i doubt that

Yeah I took that plate out completely and it still wouldn't go into 2nd. Maybe the shift linkage is slightly bent but I would think that if it were it would affect more than just 2nd.