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Old 07-19-2015, 07:03 PM   #43
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Were the cut wires touching any part of the chassis before you took the picture. If no, your search continues but you have a better idea of what you are looking for.

In place of the fuse stick in the multimeter set to the voltage setting, not current. That's why you blew up your first multimeter.

Better than a multimeter would be one of those 12 v test lights put in place of the blown fuse. It will light up as long as the short exists but will limit the current thus preventing a completely burned wiring harness.
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:22 PM   #44
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Were the cut wires touching any part of the chassis before you took the picture. If no, your search continues but you have a better idea of what you are looking for.

In place of the fuse stick in the multimeter set to the voltage setting, not current. That's why you blew up your first multimeter.

Better than a multimeter would be one of those 12 v test lights put in place of the blown fuse. It will light up as long as the short exists but will limit the current thus preventing a completely burned wiring harness.
Thanks for letting me know how to test if it still has a fault. I dont have one of those but when i put my multimeter on it and it reads 12v that means i still have a short correct? Same as if the light came on?

I fixed the wires that were damaged, none of them were shorted together. The one that was cut was from the ETCS relay, which i believe is the electronic throttle control. Anyways i fixed that up and still no start, and still a short in the 20v dome light fuse.

So ill get back to tracking down the short. With the multimeter monitoring the fuse circuit.
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:23 PM   #45
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oh also can anyone tell me what this is? Mine is smashed but i couldnt figure out what it was to order a new one.


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Old 07-19-2015, 07:39 PM   #46
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when i put my multimeter on it and it reads 12v that means i still have a short correct? Same as if the light came on?
Not necessarily. If the circuit is supposed to power something like a clock, there will always be a difference in potential between the fuse terminals. The clock becomes the current-limiting device so a light will never illuminate. A digital multimeter will always be the current-limiting device in a series circuit. Look up "high impedance."

It's a 20 amp fuse so, unless it's a sub-main fuse, I'm guessing it's not feeding a clock or computer memory circuit.
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:44 PM   #47
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Quote:
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oh also can anyone tell me what this is? Mine is smashed but i couldnt figure out what it was to order a new one.
I believe that is the 80 amp fuse as indicated by the *6
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:56 PM   #48
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oh also can anyone tell me what this is? Mine is smashed but i couldnt figure out what it was to order a new one.
EPS stands for Electronic Power Steering.
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Old 07-19-2015, 08:23 PM   #49
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Just a heads up, the car does have a key that you can use...to elimate the keyless start from the equation.
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Old 07-19-2015, 08:30 PM   #50
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Just a heads up, the car does have a key that you can use...to elimate the keyless start from the equation.
My keyless model has key but it only opens door, cannot be used to start car. their is no keyed ignition switch fitted, USA model may be different ?

If the key indicator turns green that generally means it read the fob key code ok.

else you can hold it next to start button if key fob battery is flat.

maybe OP should try reading OBD error codes from obd port after replacing the EPS fuse, might give a clue to systems not working.
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Old 07-19-2015, 08:53 PM   #51
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I never used it on this car, I just assumed it could be used in side of ignition to start car similar to other models.....maybe not.
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Old 07-19-2015, 09:10 PM   #52
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Fun times chasing wires.


Just to be clear, im looking for a hot wire that is grounded for some reason correct? Not just a ground that is loose?
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Old 07-19-2015, 09:28 PM   #53
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Sorta. A hot wire that is grounded might toast the battery or start a fire. You're looking for a wire on the positive side of the harness that is grounded, but somewhere after the fuse.

Do be wary. It's 12v but can be deadly.

You technically should be testing with the battery disconnected and reading impedance (a closed circuit where it shouldn't be.)

C
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:12 PM   #54
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ok, ive learned alot more about electronics today than i expected. But ive got the dome fuse to not blow!! ive fixed the grounded circuit.

Inside the cabin, the passenger side sun visor was hanging by the wires ( for the light inside it )


so i grabbed it and pulled it off and covered the positive side of the wire in tape, and gave the fuse another try. And it didnt blow!!

I have power to the stereo and the dome light, and all the fuses check out OK.

The front of my car is now a total mess of wires..
But happy with this small success for now.


Onto the starting side of things.. It still does not even attempt to start.
Any other ideas on stuff to look at would be helpful. Where is the starter on this car?
Also when you hop in your car, and have the foot off the brake, and hit the start button once, all the electronics should turn on. Can you then move the car out of park and into other gears? Im wondering if the car cant tell that its in park. Mine i can hit the power once, and move it from park into reverse and it starts beeping at me, and into neutral and drive. Obv im trying to start it from park though.
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Old 07-19-2015, 11:09 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by im_topher View Post
ok, ive learned alot more about electronics today than i expected. But ive got the dome fuse to not blow!! ive fixed the grounded circuit.

Inside the cabin, the passenger side sun visor was hanging by the wires ( for the light inside it )


so i grabbed it and pulled it off and covered the positive side of the wire in tape, and gave the fuse another try. And it didnt blow!!

I have power to the stereo and the dome light, and all the fuses check out OK.

The front of my car is now a total mess of wires..
But happy with this small success for now.


Onto the starting side of things.. It still does not even attempt to start.
Any other ideas on stuff to look at would be helpful. Where is the starter on this car?
Also when you hop in your car, and have the foot off the brake, and hit the start button once, all the electronics should turn on. Can you then move the car out of park and into other gears? Im wondering if the car cant tell that its in park. Mine i can hit the power once, and move it from park into reverse and it starts beeping at me, and into neutral and drive. Obv im trying to start it from park though.

Check the fuses under your dash if you haven't.


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Old 07-19-2015, 11:12 PM   #56
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Check the fuses under your dash if you haven't.


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I checked the ones you pointed out, ill check all of them tomorrow
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