Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[Sojhinn]

How did it go @fenton @Robftss


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[Sojhinn]

Also @Gums please tell you are installed


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[fenton]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Also @Gums please tell you are installed


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I don't think the kit i got sent has the taps and i'm not comfortable with soldering. I will probably just wait for Rob to get back from vacation to install it.

I have a laptop with a console connection so i dont need the adapter. I didnt know if the installation would be different because this unit is different than what everyone else got.

[SOAZ]

Originally Posted by murselyfe

Haha... yeah... I think I've been on the list for almost a year and it just happened to have come at not the best time.

However... selling it may bring about ragrets.

If you install it, you wont ever uninstall it. It's the meth of engine mods. Cheaper and less powerful than the other FI options, but EVERY bit as addictive.

[dtek]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Also @Gums please tell you are installed

Yep, he is and so am I. Excellent instruction video btw.
The RHD version goes basically the same... however were I to do it again I'd run some of the Procede harness cables differently, ie, adjusting length where one or two are too long, and not having the 5v signal wire sheathed with the ECU tap wires.

We both soldered rather than tapped, and although yes it's more time consuming, the peace of mind is worth it (IMO). Added secure dedicated connectors on all wires also to make it an easy unplug job if needed.
For a future release, a piggyback connector arrangement that inserts between the OEM ECU harness plug, and the ECU itself (with the two new wire outputs) would be truly ideal.

Also, FYI for any future user's info, to change maps you only need to have the system on, the laptop connected, and then simply select a different map. That wasn't really clear to me until I tried it, and I couldn't find that instruction online anywhere. You'll see it indicating progress of the new map upload in the software bottom bar.

Sidenote: my fuel consumption with procede seems to have taken a 10-15% hit, but makes sense coz the boosts are being stuffed into the engine more often.

[Gums]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Also @Gums please tell you are installed


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All up and running, many many thanks to Sojhinn and Dtec for all the help.

RHD is a little different, luckily the ECU wires are the same colours, although reversed compared to LHD. As Dtec mentioned, I removed the 5v signal wire from the sheath with the ECU tap wires.

Mounted the Procede with velcro to the back of the drivers knee airbag and added connectors to most wires. Ended up removing the stereo jacks.

Bought a Grimmspeed strut bar to support under bonnet cables and added 30A Anderson connectors for the 12v power cables. Also ran the AUX signal wire in the same shrink wrap as it was a fraction short and easier to remove this way.

Moved the starter battery so I could have the dump batteries just that bit closer for heavier/shorter set of dump cables. Still have some adjustments to do to the battery hold down which I'll do when upgrading the start battery.

[Gums]

Loved the origional kit.
This new version is so much better. Definitely agree with the larger engine comments. Running Sojhinn's V2 procede tune, like how I can cruise at 110k without engaging, though find excuses to engage anyway.

[LucidMomentum]

Originally Posted by Gums

RHD is a little different, luckily the ECU wires are the same colours, although reversed compared to LHD. As Dtec mentioned, I removed the 5v signal wire from the sheath with the ECU tap wires.

Mounted the Procede with velcro to the back of the drivers knee airbag and added connectors to most wires. Ended up removing the stereo jacks.

Bought a Grimmspeed strut bar to support under bonnet cables and added 30A Anderson connectors for the 12v power cables. Also ran the AUX signal wire in the same shrink wrap as it was a fraction short and easier to remove this way.

What connectors did you use for the Procede wiring?

Originally Posted by dtek

We both soldered rather than tapped, and although yes it's more time consuming, the peace of mind is worth it (IMO). Added secure dedicated connectors on all wires also to make it an easy unplug job if needed.
For a future release, a piggyback connector arrangement that inserts between the OEM ECU harness plug, and the ECU itself (with the two new wire outputs) would be truly ideal.

For reference, did you also use Anderson connectors or did you use something else? I'm curious because it seems that having a set of connectors handy to wire up to everything when I get my kit would make the install a bit easier than if I were to just use taps or crimp connectors.

Did you guys have any trouble getting the connectors through the firewall?

[Gums]

Originally Posted by LucidMomentum

What connectors did you use for the Procede wiring?

For reference, did you also use Anderson connectors or did you use something else? I'm curious because it seems that having a set of connectors handy to wire up to everything when I get my kit would make the install a bit easier than if I were to just use taps or crimp connectors.

Did you guys have any trouble getting the connectors through the firewall?

For the procede ECU wiring I used a 2 Pin Miniature Nylon MOLEX-Type Connector although any small 2 pin locking plug would suffice.

All other procede connections were made with un-insulated male and female spade terminals which were seperately insulated after soldering with HD srink wrap.

The only Anderson connectors I added were on the start battery to controller cables. As I'm RHD these cables are much longer and I wanted the flexability of being able to seperate most of the cable from the controller. Used small 30A ones for this. If my BRZ was LHD I wouldn't have bothered.

No, plenty of room using the sound tube hole. Easier if you push something through from the footwell, tape the leads to this and carefully pull them through. I enclosed all these wires in a fully taped cable tube for the under bonnet area. Held it in place with self adhesive cable tie holders.

[LucidMomentum]

Originally Posted by Gums

For the procede ECU wiring I used a 2 Pin Miniature Nylon MOLEX-Type Connector although any small 2 pin locking plug would suffice.

All other procede connections were made with un-insulated male and female spade terminals which were seperately insulated after soldering with HD srink wrap.

The only Anderson connectors I added were on the start battery to controller cables. As I'm RHD these cables are much longer and I wanted the flexability of being able to seperate most of the cable from the controller. Used small 30A ones for this. If my BRZ was LHD I wouldn't have bothered.

No, plenty of room using the sound tube hole. Easier if you push something through from the footwell, tape the leads to this and carefully pull them through. I enclosed all these wires in a fully taped cable tube for the under bonnet area. Held it in place with self adhesive cable tie holders.

Thanks for the advice! Sounds like it's worth it just for ease of mind.

[murselyfe]

Oops.

Moved.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by murselyfe

Who here is in SoCal and waiting for their Phantom ESC kit?

Get at me.

Wow.


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[raven1231]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Wow.


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Am I missing something?

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by raven1231

Am I missing something?

He's selling it (I'm assuming) and I'm guessing someone on the wait list is going to be happy. So wow.


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