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| Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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#15 |
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Probably will. You can reset it with any OBD II tool, but it will pop up again eventually. Better to get a tune because you won't get the most out of a catless header without one. OpenFlashTablets (that include free lifetime tunes) go for about $400 on the board used or $500 brand new the mfg.
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#16 |
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And if one decides to pay for ecu tune (be it ecutek or OFT), and go catless .. why not change to some even more efficient catless aftermarket header, so that if needed, one still has normal stock header that one can bolt back for MOT exhaust checks or prior car sale, but have more power (and it will weight less) then what gutted cats in stock header may bring?
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#17 | |
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You will be fine IF you keep the Q300
I did all the other bits first (2 x headers, 2x front / over pipe) and then changed catbacks several times trying to find the right blend of power and low volume.... the Q300 keeps any setup bearable on the twins. And no, the catted headers do not keep the car quiet, necessarily. Depends on the cat density, placement, header material, material thickness, etc etc. My first header was catted the second was not. with the Q300 it won't make much difference if any at all. Quote:
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#18 | |
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1. Price. A take-off OEM header sells for $75-$125. Buy it, gut it and keep your orginal header for smog check swaps. 2. Power. The WHP difference between OEM header with gutted cat OEM vs aftermarket is minimal (less than 3 WHP compared to the RevWorks header in NickFRS dyno) 3. Compliance. An OEM header with gutted cat will pass a roadside visual inspection 4. Heat. An OEM header retains the factory heat shields. Heat in the oil pan and on the coilpacks is a well documented issue 5. Noise. An OEM header is quieter because of the aformentioned heat shields. Undoubtedly a highly optimized aftermarket header can produce a few more WHP and shave some weight, but the above benefits are pretty compelling. Also welding in a straight-pipe makes the OEM header roughly equivalent in power to most of the sub $1000 aftermarket headers. |
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To me only 1. & 3. seems important enough. 2. - there are several providing much more gains. Not 3, not 5, but +20 above gutted stock i believe (of course PTuning's or Ace's cost accordingly higher). Why compare with least performing? 4. - even with stock header for track use i'd think about oil cooler. 5. many intentionally go for noise increase with aftermarket parts, don't see it as issue. Get extra loudness from header swap, get less agressive/not too loud rest of exhaust upgrades (or even leave stock).
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#20 |
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#21 |
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#22 |
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Hmm, I thought the loudness associated with headers was due to the sound coming out of the tail pipe, not the vibration of the header mounted to the engine. I guess you could add some Dynamat to your header and if it's too loud, lol!
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#23 |
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I have an uncatted JDL UEL and a q300. It is maybe 10% louder than all stock, and sounds amazing and deep. No drone. Perfect for a DD.
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#24 | |
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#25 |
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namless coated both before the revision and after (i had to rma mine due to fitment issues)
fa20club long tube catted, also tried the catless version.
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#26 | |
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#27 | |
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I want to leave the header last because of noise. Maybe work on audio a bit and then do header last cause I don't go to the track or anything so won't matter much. Maybe in a few years they will make a quieter header haha. What overpipe brand did you use Cause i also want the invidia catted frontpipe and want an overpipe that ill match it well ![]() Also how did the gains feel after the front pipe, over pipe and tune for a daily driver car?
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#28 |
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Just switched back to stock catback and this is what it sounds like. The rest of the exhaust is aftermarket, cats in both the header and front pipe:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuZhV7MZ3_g&list=PL-yYtv6mizg6LnXijtKs3sLeSdnZpF2qV&index=13"]Catted UEL header + Berk catted FP + stock catback + E85 - YouTube[/ame]
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