SCCA Solo C Street Discussion

[markw]

Originally Posted by ChrisV

Yup.

Also, got my car aligned on Konis with TRD springs tonight. - 2.2 camber.

Here we go again...

[solort]

Originally Posted by ChrisV

Yup.

Also, got my car aligned on Konis with TRD springs tonight. - 2.2 camber.

That is awesome Chris. A lofty goal for me to also attain. I ordered my springs but will have to use my stock struts for awhile. I was only able to get around -1.8 with stock springs and struts.

Ran my first event in the car last weekend(and first RWD in about 5 years) and ran PAX times with DS Pro Solo winner at Mineral Wells. So pretty excited about adding some "cheater springs" and some Konis...

Front bar, neg camber, alignment and RE71Rs so far...

[cab33]

Can you install just the TRD lowering springs... or do you have to add the TRD sway bars along with them to be legal in C-street?

[ChrisV]

Originally Posted by cab33

Can you install just the TRD lowering springs... or do you have to add the TRD sway bars along with them to be legal in C-street?

You can do either.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

[solort]

Originally Posted by cab33

Can you install just the TRD lowering springs... or do you have to add the TRD sway bars along with them to be legal in C-street?

They are both Port Installed options (separately), so you can do both, one, or none....

Can also do both TRD bars (rear is larger) and then change the front to a different one if you want (and sell the front one). If the rear only came by itself....

[Laloosh]

Originally Posted by ChrisV

Yup.

Also, got my car aligned on Konis with TRD springs tonight. - 2.2 camber.

So Chris, being that we get our alignment done at the same shop...why do you think I was only able to get -1.2? Hell you are even using the actual camber bolts from my car. lol Cmon fellas lets not beat around the bush.

[SeanRTR]

Originally Posted by renfield90

Looked like a really close fight at the Ohio pro - top 8 drivers (out of 13) were covered by less than 1.5 seconds. Seemed like a short course though with dry times dropping under 30 seconds.

I'm curious what Sean's feedback is, but based on finishing 7th I don't think he was happy with the 215s. His 60' and reaction times were good, but then you have the rest of the course to run...

Launch was great, I even hit a high 2.197 60', only non NC time I saw that was better was Randy's 2.180, and he's on 245's.


I was launching slightly high, I need to try a bit less wheel spin. First gear comes in a hurry. First transition, I knew I was in big trouble. Car was crazy loose. Made for insane turn in, and the tight turn at the end of the course was fantastic, great gear exiting corner, but transitions (the rest of the course) were nearly impossible... the car was sideways everywhere, rear tires screaming, I'm amazed I didn't spin every run. Failed experiment, but I'm impressed it finished as well as it did, nearly sideways all over the place. The gearing was perfect for this course, tall tires would have been total overkill. More info and video to come.

[ChrisV]

Originally Posted by Laloosh

So Chris, being that we get our alignment done at the same shop...why do you think I was only able to get -1.2? Hell you are even using the actual camber bolts from my car. lol Cmon fellas lets not beat around the bush.

My car is also much lower than your car. It's not apples to apples.

I measured the struts myself, they're dimensionally identical. If someone wants to throw paper, let them.

[Laloosh]

Originally Posted by ChrisV

My car is also much lower than your car. It's not apples to apples.

I measured the struts myself, they're dimensionally identical. If someone wants to throw paper, let them.

Lowering will not add that much if any at all in the front based on the suspension design. Clearly something else is different.

[solort]

Originally Posted by Laloosh

Lowering will not add that much if any at all in the front based on the suspension design. Clearly something in the koni replacements is different.

Originally Posted by solort

I was able to get around -1.8 with stock springs and struts.

I believe Chris. But, as he suggests, throw a protest and have it clarified. I think you will find him in compliance....

If you are expecting a regular alignment guy to get you the most legal camber, you will probably be disappointed...

I do all my own alignment stuff

[simpleisbest]

It is possible that the Koni stock replacements' strut mounting holes may be offset more inboard to the shaft centerline. This could provide more camber than OEM, even while having the same size mounting holes and dimensional size.

Everyone that has measure them vs stock has only measured the mounting hole sizes, not the LOCATION.

[Laloosh]

Originally Posted by solort

I believe Chris. But, as he suggests, throw a protest and have it clarified. I think you will find him in compliance....

If you are expecting a regular alignment guy to get you the most legal camber, you will probably be disappointed...

I do all my own alignment stuff

I will def not be protesting, trust me on that. You guys missed the point of this. BTW Chris and I are in the same region, get our alignment done by the same guy at the same place, on the same machine. I just had my wrx aligned there and I was essentially standing pararel to the ground forcing all my weight into the wheel as people were under the car tightening and loosing bolts....its not a "traditional" alignment lol

[solort]

Originally Posted by Laloosh

I will def not be protesting, trust me on that. You guys missed the point of this. BTW Chris and I are in the same region, get our alignment done by the same guy at the same place, on the same machine. I just had my wrx aligned there and I was essentially standing pararel to the ground forcing all my weight into the wheel as people were under the car tightening and loosing bolts....its not a "traditional" alignment lol

I have found the best way to max neg camber is to jack up car, take off wheel, loosen camber bolts (as well as any other bolts that may have some play). Then, put the edge of another jack under the bottom corner of the rotor and jack the rotor/hub/strut assembly up till you have a decent amount of force (you will see strut and rotor flop towards the negative camber direction). This will pull the bolts tight with the max neg camber (forces bottom of rotor towards outside of car). Then, tighten all the bolts, release the jack pressure, reattach wheel and lugs, and lower car. Repeat for other side, then adjust toe to taste.

[Laloosh]

Originally Posted by solort

I have found the best way to max neg camber is to jack up car, take off wheel, loosen camber bolts (as well as any other bolts that may have some play). Then, put the edge of another jack under the bottom corner of the rotor and jack the rotor/hub/strut assembly up till you have a decent amount of force (you will see strut and rotor flop towards the negative camber direction). This will pull the bolts tight with the max neg camber (forces bottom of rotor towards outside of car). Then, tighten all the bolts, release the jack pressure, reattach wheel and lugs, and lower car. Repeat for other side, then adjust toe to taste.

You know what works even better, straps, and 2x4s on top hats. Trust me all the tricks in the book are known. Sub-frames are loosened and shifted here to perfectly match l/r settings if needed. This isn't a pepboys alignment lol.