JDL 4854mfs single scroll kit install/review

[Rybot]

Originally Posted by yomny

No I have EL, but knowing these guys.. it'll probably be a good fit. Just get it in evenly.. you cant really get one side in then the other because the studs will interfere.. I placed the gaskets on the studs/engine and raised the manifold straight up..

I've got a Borla UEL that I had problems installing because the short side is right below the stud. My ratchet wouldn't fit very well even with a U joint. I had to use the smallest ratchet I had and torque like 30 degrees at a time.
@JDLAutoDesign
Do any of the UEL manifold pipes route directly below the studs?

[drambo136]

Any uel headers are more of a pain. That being said I had borla uel b4 this and the JDL uel are way easier. U still need to finagle a bit but not terrible

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

[yomny]

Originally Posted by Rybot

I've got a Borla UEL that I had problems installing because the short side is right below the stud. My ratchet wouldn't fit very well even with a U joint. I had to use the smallest ratchet I had and torque like 30 degrees at a time.
@JDLAutoDesign
Do any of the UEL manifold pipes route directly below the studs?

Ohh. yeah if that's what you were asking then there's one nut on the drivers side that's a pain to get to(even with EL). Note- install the manifold before you put in the oil pan.. it'll be a breeze. If not you could still get it with no issues with a 3/8 extension and one of them wiggle or U joints.

[Rybot]

Originally Posted by drambo136

Any uel headers are more of a pain. That being said I had borla uel b4 this and the JDL uel are way easier. U still need to finagle a bit but not terrible

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

How much easier? Isn't the manifold 3" piping?

[yomny]

Originally Posted by Rybot

How much easier? Isn't the manifold 3" piping?

The manifold to turbo section may be.. the downpipe could be too,.. the manifold runners aren't(which is what concerns you when installing the nuts to the head, they never are, they're like 1" and something.

[Rybot]

Originally Posted by yomny

Ohh. yeah if that's what you were asking then there's one nut on the drivers side that's a pain to get to(even with EL). Note- install the manifold before you put in the oil pan.. it'll be a breeze. If not you could still get it with no issues with a 3/8 extension and one of them wiggle or U joints.

Yup. That driver's side nut was the same one I had a problem with. I'll take the oil pan install afterward into consideration.

[King Tut]

I feel like this is the JDL owner's thread.

[Rybot]

Originally Posted by King Tut

I feel like this is the JDL owner's thread.

That's likely my fault. I keep asking questions.

I begrudgingly agree though. This thread gets much more traffic.

[yomny]

Originally Posted by King Tut

I feel like this is the JDL owner's thread.

Yeah I think we should take the kit conversations over to the owners thread so the info remains there. Porting over...

[xxscaxx]

use a crows foot wrench for that bolt, or you can get in there with a regular wrench. One with a closed end ratchet head helps.

[yomny]

Decided to report back after my tragic oil leak nightmare . I am somewhat disappointed with Precision's warranty service as they received my turbo the 8th of july and they're telling me it'll be another 18 business days before they could look at it. Fortunately for me i got my GTX28 and couldn't be happier. Got T31 turbine housing which is for a t3 inlet and vband, only that it was a 2.5" vband if I'm not mistaken and had to weld the optional 3". This little conversion moved my downpipe slightly towards the passenger side not letting it fit properly, would not seal on the turbo end and would also leak on the overripe side. Had to build a custom downpipe.... so now i have a hybrid turbo kit. The GTX is a very nice and quick spooling turbo, extremely happy with it. Sourced my fiber braided coolant lines with banjo fittings, fire sleeved everything, clamped everything down and ran the lines downward to keep things clean up top. For the boost signal i decided not to tap onto the compressor housing, I'm not practical with that sort of job and there was a quick and solid way around that, its called Quick tap something. Now for pics, as always any questions you may have, i'm open to help. As of now, i don't have any leaks, exhaust nor oil, lets hope it remains that way. Still have to get a full completed shot.

Turbo installed, waiting on DP.


A little cluttered but the picture doesn't do it justice, this all comes straight down from the CHRA and to the drivers side frame.


This came out clean, i like how the banjo's seal things.

[erok81]

Part of my wishes I would have used one of those Instead of drilling my compressor cover.

On a side note...mine has been running for a month or so I think. Zero oil leaks with the jdl supplied stuff. Maybe it's just pte stuff. That's who made my previous car's turbo. And it leaked like yours did.

[yomny]

Originally Posted by erok81

Part of my wishes I would have used one of those Instead of drilling my compressor cover.

On a side note...mine has been running for a month or so I think. Zero oil leaks with the jdl supplied stuff. Maybe it's just pte stuff. That's who made my previous car's turbo. And it leaked like yours did.

Yep, I'm just skeptical and paranoid from the PTE experience but I'm almost certain this isn't going to leak from any point. I still can't understand why it would leak, another buddy also is going through exactly the same experience, turbo drain leak.

[xxscaxx]

Glad you are back up and running yomny, but sucks about the downpipe.