Replacing Struts and Installing Coil Springs

[toast]

Just did this tonight. Just an FYI, in the picture that shows the rear bumpstops they have been pressed on too far. There is a collar with a lower lip and the picture shows the bumpstops down below this lower lip - they should just rest on the lower lip. The first time you really use the bumpstops this will fix itself since the stop will pop over that lip and seal against the top mount, but it might make a nasty noise as it does so.

Also, the rear springs are upside down - the words Eibach should be right side up.

There is zero need for a spring compressor to do this job. If you remove the top nuts on the struts while the car is weighted you can remove the strut/spring and leave the topmounts bolted in the car. On the rear it is helpful to disconnect the sway bar endlink bolt so that you get more vertical movement out of the LCA.

[Valentino]

Originally Posted by toast

Just did this tonight. Just an FYI, in the picture that shows the rear bumpstops they have been pressed on too far. There is a collar with a lower lip and the picture shows the bumpstops down below this lower lip - they should just rest on the lower lip. The first time you really use the bumpstops this will fix itself since the stop will pop over that lip and seal against the top mount, but it might make a nasty noise as it does so.

Also, the rear springs are upside down - the words Eibach should be right side up.

There is zero need for a spring compressor to do this job. If you remove the top nuts on the struts while the car is weighted you can remove the strut/spring and leave the topmounts bolted in the car. On the rear it is helpful to disconnect the sway bar endlink bolt so that you get more vertical movement out of the LCA.

I just installed my swift springs (the R version) yesterday ... I didn't find any instructions online. So I followed the OP instructions.

I didn't mess with the bump stop. But I did install the rear as OP did. And I can feel the rear is not normal (bouncing). On the front it was obvious the compressed part of the spring goes to the bottom. I thought that I have to wait till things Settle. Don't know if the rear Eibach springs puts the compressed part of the spring on top, or the swift should be on the bottom?
I'm confused ??!?!

[toast]

I don't know anything about the swift springs, I just know the Eibach logo should be face up when installing their springs.

Provided the end of the coil sits in the top and bottom mount correctly (there is an indent where the final part of the spring sits to prevent it from rotating) it really shouldn't matter which end the 'more coiled' part goes on, it is just a spring.

[sosick]

Needed those specs today. Thanks bro

[JozhGoober]

Originally Posted by HeadBanger

Is an alignment REALLY necessary after doing this? I might have to put 400km on the car before I can get it aligned

Yes, absolutely.

However! You do want to drive some distance (probably closer to 50-100 km) to let the springs settle. You could try driving it and if it's not doing anything unsafe, probably drive it the 400 km without too much of an issue, but if things are really out of whack it'll eat tires and feel very unsettled.


I had to drive ~15 miles to the alignment shop after installing camber plates and LCA's, and it was one of the scarier drives I've had. The car was pulling all over the road, traction control would randomly engage going around corners. Not fun!


If you're at all unsure, I'd just wait to do the install until after your road trip. Plus if anything goes wrong during the install, you don't want to be under pressure to get the job done before you have to depart!

[HeadBanger]

Originally Posted by JozhGoober

Yes, absolutely.

However! You do want to drive some distance (probably closer to 50-100 km) to let the springs settle. You could try driving it and if it's not doing anything unsafe, probably drive it the 400 km without too much of an issue, but if things are really out of whack it'll eat tires and feel very unsettled.


I had to drive ~15 miles to the alignment shop after installing camber plates and LCA's, and it was one of the scarier drives I've had. The car was pulling all over the road, traction control would randomly engage going around corners. Not fun!


If you're at all unsure, I'd just wait to do the install until after your road trip. Plus if anything goes wrong during the install, you don't want to be under pressure to get the job done before you have to depart!

I did it anyways. Only problem is our rack at work has quite the incline so I didn't want to do it until going to a shop with an in-ground rack.


I don't know if it's been spoken about, but I'll mention that without camber bolts you'll be at around -2* camber in the rear.

[toast]

Originally Posted by JozhGoober

installing camber plates and LCA's, and it was one of the scarier drives I've had

None of the bolts removed in this process will change your alignment by any more than the smallest of amounts except for maybe getting you a little more camber if you push on the top of the wheel while you tighten things back up.

Camber plates and control arms are entirely different.

[JozhGoober]

Originally Posted by toast

None of the bolts removed in this process will change your alignment by any more than the smallest of amounts except for maybe getting you a little more camber if you push on the top of the wheel while you tighten things back up.

Camber plates and control arms are entirely different.

True, it wasn't nearly as screwed up after I did my springs, but it the alignment was still definitely off. You also get a fair increase in negative camber in the rear due to the drop, it's still within spec but as mentioned above, goes up to around -2 degrees. Any changes in camber are going to change toe.

[North_GA_FRS]

Excellent write up, thank you for taking the time to do this. I didn't find this thread until 2 days after I installed the RSR Super Downs, looking for a rear camber solution (car is currently at -2 and -2.1 degrees in the rear). Front camber is close to zero and I don't expect toe has been changed at all. In all honesty, it looks pretty good at this camber but it's more of a DD than a track car, so I need to reduce the camber a bit for more even tire wear.

Prior to my spring installation I found this video on YouTube. I have spring compressors, so I used them on the rear but used this method on the front. This method, and the method used by the OP are much quicker but I think this method may be a little bit safer (in the event there is some sort of mistake). There is also a cool tool (and a shade tree mechanic method) for removing the nut on the top of the shock/strut.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4C-ZUGi4R-Q"]Car Noob Ep. 7 - FR-S / BRZ Lowering Springs - YouTube[/ame]

[North_GA_FRS]

Originally Posted by JozhGoober

True, it wasn't nearly as screwed up after I did my springs, but it the alignment was still definitely off. You also get a fair increase in negative camber in the rear due to the drop, it's still within spec but as mentioned above, goes up to around -2 degrees. Any changes in camber are going to change toe.

JozhGoober, spent some time researching this as I was trying to figure out if I should have an alignment done. Would certainly rather spend $75 on an alignment than $500 on new tires.

[CarlIvan]

That was a great guide. Thank you. I have 2 questions. 1. What is your opinion on the Eibach sportline springs. 2. The instructions say "never use an impact wrench on the shocks". What is the rational behind that? I hate it when instructions post warnings and don't offer reasons.
Ivan

[JozhGoober]

Originally Posted by CarlIvan

2. The instructions say "never use an impact wrench on the shocks". What is the rational behind that? I hate it when instructions post warnings and don't offer reasons.
Ivan

You don't want to rotate the shock shaft, as it can damage the internal seals.

[rick s]

Who is correct?


Rear shock mount orientation

Devoris "Red tab faces front of car "

or Fizz

"Sorry for the old post revival guys, but I just wanted to inform anyone attempting this DIY that the tab (for rear shock) faces the rear...not the front of the car. I've double checked this on another stock 86 just to be sure.

You can easily check this prior to removing your rear shocks by looking closely through the hole where you'd insert the socket to remove top nut.

[misooscar]

Thank you OP and other forum members for the shared experiences...

The extent of my wrenching was a Vortech SC install prior to this project.

Just using hand tools it took me over 10 hours to complete. I got hung up on re-installation of rear shocks, removal of front camber bolts, installation of new front Whitle line endlinks, and re-installation of Raceseng Cascam plates.

Here's some tips and useful hints that have been highlighted by the previous posters:

1) O' Reilly's rents a good set of spring compressors for $55, which is fully refundable upon return

2) Orchard Supply Hardware sells a good set of Craftsman pass through sockets ($50)

3) Make sure you modify your jacking procedure, as my hydraulic jack doesn't fit under the car anymore

4) You will likely need to jack up the rear control arms when re-installing the bolts to get everything to line up (save some time and get a buddy to help on this step)

5) Installation of Raceseng cascam plates is much easier with a buddy's help

The FRS looks a bit more aggressive, and definitely has less body roll with the installation of the RCE Yellow Springs (on stock struts). Ride quality is still pretty good.

Time for a celebratory beer...